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Hello, all... I'm new to the forum, but not to vintage radios. I have a collection of about 50 or so that I've been acquiring since my Dad bought me an RCA K-15 when I was 9 or so. He was a radio engineer, and taught me about radio repair. I am writing because I just picked up a Philco 41-250 in very nice condition, already recapped and working. I have some questions about some things I find odd about it, based on research I have done. The first question, it is a 25 cycle set... I thought household 25 cycle power was done away with years before this was made in 1941?....Second involves the face. It is shrunk, cracked, mildewed..you know what they become....anyway, it is different than all the others I have seen online, as well as the repros, as it has a gold stripe around the perimeter, from screw hole to screw hole. Also, the "PHILCO" decal is not on the top above the dial,,, it was on the face between the volume and band knobs.Unfortunately, it disintegrated as I was cleaning the gray-white mildew off the face. Can anybody shed some light on this for me?
Note from site admin: Sorry, but the photos which were attached to this post are no longer available.
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City: Ferdinand
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Hello and welcome!
Don't worry about your set having a 25 cycle power transformer; it will work just fine on 60 cycle AC. I don't know when Philco stopped making sets in the USA designed to operate on 25 cycle AC. They made them at least up to and including the 1942 models; my 1946 Philco parts catalog lists 25 cycle transformers for some 1942 models.
Some of those Philco tenite escutcheons have a gold stripe, as yours has. My 41-610 has a gold stripe as yours does. The reproductions do not have the gold stripe, however.
I find it very odd that the PHILCO decal would be on the escutcheon itself, I've seen quite a few 41-250 sets, and every one had the PHILCO decal above the dial, on the wood and not the escutcheon.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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Thank you Ron.... I was just curious as to why there would be 25 cycle sets being made that late in the game....I have an AK 70 that's 25 cycle, but that time frame seems more "normal" for it, if you will....I'm going to buy the new bezel , knobs, and push buttons. It has misshapen brown buttons now, but I kinda thought the red ones would look nice with the pilot shining through them.... what do you think? Could they have originally come with the red ones? If not, I'll go brown. I'm thinking that some gold automotive striping tape would recreate the original striping on the bezel nicely. Can the correct "PHILCO" decal be had anywhere? If so, should I put it back where it was, or on top? I'm not sure what to do...the bezel seems to be it's original location, as everything cosmetically appears to be untouched, but I don't want people who know to look at it and say "What a schmuck ! He put the logo in the wrong place!"
Thank you again!
Andy
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I apologize for not adding this to my last reply... I would also like to know if anyone would have the correct chassis to case spacers and screws/washers? As you can see in the pics, the chassis is more or less centered with pieces of cardboard...Also, does anyone repro the brass strip across the escucheon?
thanks again!
Andy
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City: Nashville, TN
Hi,
I am not positive about those buttons, but I'd say the brown ones are original. Actually, your bezel or escutcheon looks pretty good compared to some we have seen. I would clean it up and leave it as it is. You could apply the gold pinstripe tape if you want. Personally, it wouldn't be a big deal to me and I'd leave it as it is.
The brass strip also looks like it's in good shape. I've seen some where the escutcheon has shrunk so much, the brass strip is very badly bent up. Again, I'd leave it alone. You may one of these days find one at a radio swapmeet in better shape. What you might do is take it off, then use a damp cloth to clean the dirt off. Then use a little automotive 'cleaner wax' lightly to get a good shine on it. It might help to bring out the swirled colors on it. Just be careful not to press to hard and break it
Your dial glass look perfect. We have seen these that were flaking off, so you're good in that respect.
As for the rubber mounts and such, check out Renovated Radios, they are listed on the resource page here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/resource.htm
Take care, Gary.
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I wonder how a reproduction escutcheon would look with the gold pinstripe tape? With my luck, if I tried that, I'd mess it up somehow.
I just looked at my 41-250; it still has its original escutcheon although I've bought a reproduction replacement for it. Mine does not have the pinstripes, and the dial scale differs from yours in the wording above the top SW scale. I'm beginning to wonder if Philco added the pinstripes to these escutcheons at mid-season? I know they changed the dial scale glass to the type you have at mid-season. Hmmm...
Here's a quick picture of mine.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...50dial.jpg]
No one reproduces the brass strip that goes into the escutcheon; you have to reuse your old one or find one somewhere. As Gary mentioned, you might find a better one at a swap meet.
The brown buttons are original for 1941 models. Notice that on my set above, even though the escutcheon is shrinking and broken and the knobs are shriveling and will require replacement, the pushbuttons are actually in decent shape.
As Gary said, the escutcheon and brass strip on your set is in much better shape than many, and is definitely in better shape than mine.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Ferdinand
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Two more pictures of my 41-250.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/ARF/41250a.jpg]
See where the PHILCO decal is above the dial? I've never seen this decal in any other location on these sets.
I need to clean this set up, and get rid of the last bits of packing (shredded paper) still in the speaker grille.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/ARF/41250b.jpg]
Here, you can see the new reproduction escutcheon, still in the bag it came in. I should have pulled it out of the bag and photographed it. Maybe I'll do that later if I don't forget about it.
Edit: Yes, Andy, the correct decal can be purchased from Antique Electronic Supply (part number S-M907). The sheet you get includes the PHILCO name in three sizes; you want to use the largest one. You'll also find a link to them on the Resources page - see link above in Gary's post.
Don't use those awful decals from Radio Daze (the DCL-PH9) if you care about how your radio looks. They look nothing like the originals.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 10
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Joined: Jan 2011
Thank you for your input...I think I'll take your suggestions, and get the pieces, but put them aside..The brass strip was pretty heavily buckled, but I took it off and straightened it out, then I elongated the holes in the escutcheon so the tabs would fit back in. Opinions on where to put "PHILCO"? I actually think it looks better where it was on mine, but I want it to be correct. Still... not a bad little piece for $10, huh?
Andy
Posts: 270
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Joined: Nov 2005
City: Nashville, TN
Andy,
You did really well for $10.
One thing I do see. It might not make much difference to you now, but I see drip marks on the back of the cabinet top. That would indicate someone stripped off the original finish, then applied some kind of clear on it. I see on the front by the feet, where someone may have sanded across the grain.
When the time comes, you may want to try your hand at refinishing the cabinet. Warmer weather is best to do all that.
But for now, the set looks fine and I'd spend time detailing the chassis, going over what the previous owner did. Lubing the controls, cleaning the pushbutton contacts, etc.
Take care, Gary.
Posts: 13,776
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$10? Wow, man, you "stole" that set!
Put the decal above the dial on your cabinet, in the same place where the decal is placed on my cabinet.
You did a good job straightening out that brass strip. I hope I do as well when I get around to replacing the old escutcheon on mine with the repro.
Also, the chassis on your set looks exceptionally clean. That is always a good thing.
As Gary said, you'll want to clean and lube the controls, and especially the pushbuttons. Caig DeoxIT is your friend here. Use DeoxIT D5 on the controls and the contacts of the pushbuttons. Follow that up on the controls (only) with FaderLube. Expensive products, but well worth the cost; they are (IMHO) the best on the market.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 10
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Joined: Jan 2011
Thank you all! I have already cleaned and lubed everything, tuned the push buttons, etc...I never really noticed the refinish evidence.I went over the case with Howard's. I used a trick my Dad taught me to straighten out the trim piece... an old trick used to straighten out dings in stainless trim on old cars.... Clean the piece, lube the inside of the channel (as it's "u" shaped more or less)..vaseline or grease of any kind is fine....melt solder (use lead for car trim) into a good section of the trim, building it up above the level of the sides. It won't stick because of the grease....let it cool, and remove it. straighten it out as best you can by hand, then place the solder "slug" into the bent/creased area, and using a wood block under it, gently tap the slug with a hammer. Slide the slug across the length and tap, continue until you get where you want it.It'll never be perfect, but it does work very well. I'm going back to the junk shop I bought this at because he told me he has a bunch of consoles coming in this weekend...This guy sells stuff CHEAP! I bought a Columbia Grafonola upright phonograph just needing a cleanup for $25!I think my wife has the divorce papers already printed up!
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City: McPherson, KS
I vote for leaving the escutcheon alone too!
Posts: 10
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Believe me... these pictures are very deceiving. it is a lot worse in person. I am going to leave it, though, as I value all of your opinions.You are the guys who know, and everything I have learned in life is from listening to the people who know. It hasn't steered me wrong yet.
Thank you to everybody for your input.
Andy
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2014
City: Easton, PA
a. 25 cycle set: I never seen one for a 41-250; inside label says 115 volts,
50-60 cycles, 60 watts
b. Escutcheon: Mine has also shrunk, warped and cracked
It has the gold pinstripe around the perimeter exactly 1/8" from the edge
c. Brass strip: For Bass, Volume, Bands, Tuning under the eight push buttons
was buckled
d. PHILCO decal: Is on top of the cabinet above the escutcheon centered
on the top center brass screw. If you measure up from the top edge of
the first wooden log the logo will be centered 3/4" above it
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