Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Painted Stewart-Warner 03-5S2
#1

Sometimes, they do, indeed , fall in your lap.

I was told this one has been to WW2 Europe . . .  the original owner scratched  "Jan 20, 1941" on the underside.

So what are the 4 holes on top?  They're  a mystery. . .  no indication of them on the schematic.


Attached Files Image(s)
                   
#2

Hey Jake, those holes were for pushbuttons.  Maybe the assembly was sticking or something and someone removed them.

Nice info on the radios history and it's a nice cabinet style.

https://radioattic.com/item.htm?radio=0100125

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#3

Yes John...I would think so.  The schematic just shows  variable condensers.
#4

Other than the baby blue paint the case seems solid, so maybe some citrus strip and could be saved. 
They made a pretty good set. 

Paul

Tubetalk1
#5

" . . . so maybe some citrus strip and could be saved."

Thanks for replying bud. 
Are you saying that citrus strip will remove paint ?
#6

That is beautiful...
Meaning that the cabinet and look are a real nice looking design. Citri-strip is a paint remover so yes it would work.
It will be handsome again for sure!
Icon_smile

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#7

"Citri-strip is a paint remover so yes it would work."

Thanks bud.  I'll check it out.
I usually use more-heavy-handed stuff, but I can see the benefit of a milder stuff, if it still gets the paint off.
#8

I've finally opened this radio up . After dealing with the asbestos in the cabinet, and removing a few added caps with messy soldering, I noticed it seemed to have EIGHT mica caps!

I thought that kinda odd,  ( the Motorola 51X17, with the same tube compliment, only has 2),
. . . . until I started trying to trace them on the schematic. At least 4 have turned out to be resistors.   Icon_crazy

Why on earth did they have to make resistors look like mica caps?!  Just thought I'd vent this frustration.  I already know at least one has to be replaced.  It's supposed to be 33 ohms, ...it's 41 ohms.  Good bye and good riddance!
#9

   
Jake looks to be your radio without the push buttons 03-5S
#10

Always an adventure! Icon_mad

Paul

Tubetalk1
#11

"Jake looks to be your radio without the push buttons 03-5S"
YES...that's it.  Thanks David. 

Mine is supposed to have the pushbuttons, but they seem to be missing.   Icon_twisted
#12

"Always an adventure! [Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...on_mad.gif]"

You bet bud!   oh_yeah
#13

Jake Maybe a late production run after the start of WWII, so they used the parts on hand to build the set. Some tubes have date codes on them look see if any are from the time frame of 1939-1940. The date code would be week and 2 digit year. Good luck on getting her going. David
#14

" . . . look see if any are from the time frame of 1939-1940."


Of the 3 metal, 12-volt tubes, the Raytheon 12SA7 appears to have what might be a date code - the numbers 280 and 617 stamped on the body.  If it is, I'm not sure how to read it.

The Ken-Rad 12SQ7 has the number 62 stamped on the base.  Would that be for 1962?  But we know this radio is older than that.

The Tung-Sol 35Z5GT  has the number 12 stamped on it's base.

. . . and the GE 50L6GT  has 3-09  and 188-5 stamped on it's base.  Could that be the ninth week of 1943?   Icon_question

Thanks David.
#15

Jake, nice patina on the cabinet. Icon_smile I have used the citri-gel stripper the last few winters. The directions wanted me to leave it on for at least 30 minutes. That worked fine but I had to apply twice more before I got results. Next time I decided to leave it on longer, more like 2-3 hours, just kept it wet. Boy, what a difference. Everything came off in one try.

Rod




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Part numbers to model cross
Thank you morzh, that is exactly what I was looking for. Now , is there some where that shows pinouts for Philco power ...Jim Dutridge — 11:37 AM
Restoration of the Canadian General Electric A-87
Thanks for your help Michael. In fact, this video is only an intermediate result. Later I had to apply another tinting l...RadioSvit — 09:01 AM
Restoration of the Canadian General Electric A-87
Great job on the cabinet. PS. In the US notation, "kenotron" refers to specific type of tubes; we call re...morzh — 08:24 AM
Part numbers to model cross
This document has at least some tables of models and parts used. Example: Choke 32-7572, used in 604 radio. Search f...morzh — 08:19 AM
Restoration of the Canadian General Electric A-87
I also checked all the radio tubes on my Hickok 530 tube tester. The 5Z3 kenotron turned out to be faulty, all the other...RadioSvit — 08:02 AM
Restoration of the Canadian General Electric A-87
Well... While the varnish is drying up, I started repairing the chassis... Of course I started by replacing the pa...RadioSvit — 07:12 AM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Hello Martin, Welcome aboard our little community what great Model 38-7 Sincerely Richardradiorich — 12:30 AM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Welcome to the Phorum Martin. I count about 9 paper caps, the 3 electrolytic caps and 2-Y2 safety caps to replace th...RodB — 09:44 PM
Part numbers to model cross
Jim, We have this index put together by Dale Cook but I don't think that is quite what you are looking for. The Parts...klondike98 — 09:37 PM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Yep the dim bulb test is OK but I'd definitely replace all those electrolytics before I did it. Since those #47 conden...klondike98 — 09:18 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 915 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 913 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>