[robertwsimpson]

Hi

I've had this philco console radio in my possession for a long time, but I've just finally decided to dive in and restore it (hopefully)

Anyway, I'll be chronicling my progress (any any questions that pop up along the way) in this thread. Hopefully I can get some help when I need it!

Just wanted to say hello, and here are some photos:

[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5430...4513_z.jpg]
image (3) by robertwsimpson, on Flickr

[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5431...65d5_z.jpg]
image by robertwsimpson, on Flickr

[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5431...f5a9_z.jpg]
image (5) by robertwsimpson, on Flickr

[gary rabbitt]

Hello and welcome!

That is a very nice looking cabinet . I was curious to know if you have worked on radio chassis before, or are good at soldering, and reading a schematic?
By chance do you know the working condition of the set already?

As you may already know, the caps should be replaced. On a 'working set', I wold replace the filter caps first. Then test just to ake sure you don't have a non working set.
Then you can replace the paper caps, testing after each one or two. Some new restorers, will replace all at once, then have a non working set. Hard to pinpoint a mistake that way.
Just sayin'.

We can help if needed, but if you have the experience, you should have no problems. I don't know for sure about that model, but there may be some rubber wiring under the chassis that wold need to be replaced if it is flaking off.

Take lots of photos, make lots of notes on the diagram.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013606.pdf

I was only asking about your experience, because lately on another forum I have seen a couple of otherwise good radios, completely dismantled. Coils, all wiring etc, and they failed to make notes identifying leads, etc. They didn't need to completely gut the chassis, but before anyone could answer their first post, the damage was already done.
Like tearing down your entire engine and trans because it needs spark plugs.

I don't think you'd do that, I was just venting a little, lol.

As for the phonograph, it plays 78 RPM only, so you want to decide if you want to have the cartridge rebuilt. There may be a slight chance it would still work. Very slight. Otherwise, the carts can be rebuilt.
Good luck with your set, and let us know how you come along.
Gary.

[TA Forbes]

That is a nice set! I have been looking for a similar console model with the modern FM band on it myself, so it will be interesting to see how the resto goes for you and what comes up as you are doing it. I have a 46-1209, unfortunately it only has broadcast and one shortwave band.

[robertwsimpson]

Gary:

Thanks for the info! I have not worked on anything like this before, but I am looking forward to getting into it. I am OK at soldering, but I definitely could use the practice. After examining the solders on this unit, I am happy about the size of the solders. I've worked on more recent hardware, and been take back at how small everything has gotten. This unit looks like it has huge gobs of solder everywhere. Nice for me! I will at risk say that I can read a schematic. To elaborate, I've never actually had to, but I've already been reading the schematics on the sheets that you linked to and figuring out some of the parts that I might need. I have a pretty logical mind, so I pick up on stuff like this pretty well.

Here is the history of the set (as far as I know): my mother purchased it at a garage sale (I do not know if it was working at that time, but I'm guessing not). She gave it to me about 5 years ago, because she never had gotten around to getting someone to fix it up. I can remember turning it on when she gave it to me, and all I remember hearing was a loud hum. None of the knobs were still on it, so I didn't really know what did what. it made me nervous leaving it plugged in, so I left it unplugged. All of the supports inside were buckling under the weight of the electronics, so I (in a moment of weakness) cut all the lines that hooked to everything else (antenna, turn table, speaker, power, etc) and took out the guts. Luckily, I left enough of each wire on each end (block as well as accessory) to tell what goes where. So that is how it lies right now.

My first order of business was going to be to attach a new power cable, attach the speaker (oopsie #1 might have been running the unit without the speaker plugged in, which according to the manual is a no-no, but I can't remember if I did that or not), and see if she wants to make some noise. I have been reading about replacing the "caps," but honestly, I don't even know what they are. I will research further regarding this.

I will examine carefully all of the wiring to see if it is dried out or flaking off. Obviously, I don't want this thing setting my new house on fire!

I actually dabble in photography, so I think taking photos of the progress and finished product will be fun. I know you can't tell from the iPhone photos that I posted of the unit, but I actually take some pretty good photos when I want to! Incidentally, I just also came into possession of an argus seventy-five, which I thought would be the perfect unit to take some photos of the radio with. Should be fun.

I understand on the gutting concern. In fact, I am sad at how much I already took apart. No harm done really, just a little more soldering and heat shrink needed before I can start the testing in earnest. I can appreciate your automotive analogy, as I actually am pretty adept at working on cars, and have, a time or two, torn down way more than I needed to to complete a job. Live and learn I guess, plus I like figuring out how things work. I usually don't have more than 10 parts left over that I don't have any idea where they came from too!

I didn't know that info about the turn table speed... I also haven't had a proper look underneath it to see how it is driven, but is rebuilding the cartridge something that I could tackle myself? If it is an electric motor, has anyone tried putting a potentiometer inline to vary the current, and thusly the speed?


TA Forbes:

now that I am thinking about it a little more, I want to say that I've had a faint FM signal picked up on this unit. I am very hopeful that I will be able to get the phonograph working, but if radio is all she has left in her, that will definitely suffice!

[Ron Ramirez]

Robert,

Glad to have you here. There is a three-legged capacitor in the FM circuit of your radio which, if not replaced, will keep your FM from working. This page on my site gives you all the information on this odd capacitor:

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/ftcap.htm

Gary has given you excellent advice. Your radio will definitely need new paper and electrolytic capacitors if you expect to use the set.

[marcapra]

I have the similar looking Philco 46-1209 model without FM which I am restoring. I am also going to restore a Philco 49-1613 that has FM as well as dual tonearms, one for 78s and one for LPs. The turntable will probably need new idler wheel and lube. The cartridge will need to be rebuilt, but you will not be able to buy the stylus for it as they are very rare or non-existant. It uses a magnetic cartridge. You might be able to have the cartridge replaced with a more modern Astatic ceramic cart, for which styli are available. You should West-Tech for advice on the turntable. I am doing this with mine, but I had to buy the turntable D10 with a cystal cart. for this. They said that you can't do that with the D10-a, which is the turntable you have. If you want to play LPs at 33 rpm, you should look for a '49 or later turntable.

[Jayce]

I have one of these consoles in my collection and I have to admit that I think it is one of the best post-war Philcos to come through my collection. I think you'll like the way it sounds once you get the unit working again. I never did get the changer working in mine because someone fouled up the cartridge and I've not heard good things about the changers Philco used. My changer had pieces of broken record inside it to boot! Of course, one can't tell these units have a changer in them unless they open the front anyways. With everything in the upright cabinet, it doesn't take up too much space either!

[Ron Ramirez]

A lot of the original Philco "dynamic" cartridges were ruined by people trying to insert a steel needle where only a special stylus was designed to fit. The steel needle, having a larger shank than the original stylus, ruined the cone the stylus fit in.

I suppose one could install a magnetic cartridge in place of the "Dynamic" with a 78 rpm stylus. Unless I'm badly mistaken, the Philco "Dynamic" cartridge is actually a magnetic cartridge. I've noticed the sets that used it had a built-in phono preamp, using a triode tube or one-half of a dual triode.

The 47-1230's original changer uses this "Dynamic" cartridge.

You could really "hot-rod" your 47-1230 with a Grado 78E. You might have some issues with tracking weight, though. I see the Grado 78C and 78E both track at 2 to 5 grams, so maybe weight would not be an issue after all.

[robertwsimpson]

Thanks for all the great information, guys!

Unfortunately, life called this weekend, so I didn't have time to do anything on the radio, but I did make a trip to radio shack and lowes to pick up some of the tools that I needed. I believe I have all the supplies to put the wiring back together, so that is priority one for this cabinet.

Now that I know "cap" is short for capacitor, I know exactly what everyone was talking about I felt dumb, but I asked my brother in law (who is very good with small electronics and things that run on tubes and the like) and he was very gentle with his explanation on how dumb I am.

Anyway, as soon as I begin work, I will document with photos and post them here so that everyone can critique my solders!

[DeckApe]

Now that I know "cap" is short for capacitor, I know exactly what everyone was talking about I felt dumb, but I asked my brother in law (who is very good with small electronics and things that run on tubes and the like) and he was very gentle with his explanation on how dumb I am.

Oh please. You are not dumb. Innocent, perhaps... but one of the great fortune cookie sayings goes something like:

"Nothing is obvious to the uninformed."

I'm only marginally less uninformed than you are, so ask away--the gang here at the Phorum is very supportive.

[gary rabbitt]

Hi Robert,
I know how 'life' can take priority, and our hobbies can cate a back seat. That's ok though. I never take the hobby as a race to finish something. Also there is a chance to make a mistake. Seen it before with some 'new hobbiests'.
Taking your time will make for a better job in the end, and you will learn as you go.

You are doing the right thing, examining the chassis, comparing to the schematic, identifying parts, connections, and the stages of the total circuit. You don't need to be an engineer, or know the precise way the set works. Just basics for now.

The solder joints sure are larger compared to today's SMT parts.
The loud hum you described is symptomatic of failed filter caps. Those are the larger valued caps in the power supply section. Generally, there are 2, maybe 3 in some cases. Replacing those first, should get rid of the hum, and you may even receive stations at that point. Powereing down, you now know that the rest of the circuit is working, the coils and tuning section is working, the audio section is working because you can hear the stations.

Next, replacing the paper caps should make the set perform even better.

The chassis mounts on the cornes (?) are available as reproduction. Those old ones get dry and crack.
Attaching a good power cord would be a good start. Try to verify every wire that you cut is correct, so that there is no question they are right.
If in doubt, the diagram will show you the way.

Examine the rubber wiring, for now, if they aren;tflaking and not touching, you may be able to leave them in place for the moment. When you are doing your paper caps, is usually a good time to do those.
You bought an Argus 75? The old TLR ? I should have a couple of those around here.

As for the tuntable speed, you could look for a more modern unit to install. I doubt any kind of voltage reduction would work right making the motor go slower.
Will check back later.
Gary.

[robertwsimpson]

Well, last night was the first time I had a chance to take out the chassis and give it a once over. I took apart the speaker (which was already more taken apart than I thought it was) and got discouraged, and figured I would take some photos and see what you guys think...

Here is the chassis:
[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5180/5455...8c70_z.jpg]
Chassis by robertwsimpson, on Flickr
not too bad!

here are some of the cords coming out of the back:
[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5456...47d6_z.jpg]
Power + ??? by robertwsimpson, on Flickr
I know the middle is the power (also, I was wondering, does the polarity matter on this? I need to hook up a new plug, and I was wondering if it mattered which way I solder the wires... I'm thinking not.). I have no recollection of what the outside ones are. I'm guessing one is the speaker, but I haven't had time to look at the schematic very well.

here are the cords coming out of the side:
[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5455...5ef6_z.jpg]
Antenna + phono cords? by robertwsimpson, on Flickr
I think the group of 4 are the phonograph controls, but I haven't had time to look up underneath the phonograph unit to see what they look like. I think the large one is the antenna (it is co-axial).

Here is the speaker:
[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5456...359c_z.jpg]
Loudspeaker by robertwsimpson, on Flickr
I was dismayed to find that there is a little transformer thing attached to the speaker. I tried to strip the wires so that I could wire the unit back up, but they wires just fell apart. I stopped before doing any more damage. Maybe someone has a tip for me? Is this a required part? I'm new to vintage stuff, and I've never seen a speaker with something like this attached.

Here is a closeup of the part in question:
[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5455...91f3_z.jpg]
Speaker Transformer? by robertwsimpson, on Flickr


Any tips or information will be very appreciated! Thanks!

[codefox1]

The transformer is the audio output transformer which matches the high impedence of the tube to the low impedence of the speaker and is required. I think it still may be OK, Here's how you check:

Measure the resistance of the primary (blue and red wires.) Should read aeround 100 ohms or so. If it is open, the news is not all that good. The other two terminals go to the speaker. The measured resistance will be 1 ohm or less. Finally, check to see if the red or blue wires shows any shorts to the speaker windings or the metal transformer casing. This would not be cool. The speaker (secondary) winding probably does have one side connected to the metal base, and that's OK.

Assuming all is well, you of course will have to splice long lengths of blue and red wire (strranded, please, and use heat shrink tubing.) The schematic will tell you where to hook them up. The blue one will go to the plate of the audio output tube, and the red one will go to the same B+ connection the old wire went to.

Keep us posted

[robertwsimpson]

finally had some time before Church on Sunday to solder up the power cord. Here is a shot of the solders and some of the caps, which I am guessing will need to be replaced.

[Image: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5464...8520_z.jpg]
photo by robertwsimpson, on Flickr

Codefox1: thanks for your input! I will stick my multimeter on the transformer and see if it is still good.

[codefox1]

I usually replace all the paper and electrolytic caps before I replace the power cord. That way I'm not tempted to power it up or lose track of what I am doing when several sets are being worked on.