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Philco 37-650 electronics help
#1
Photo 

Thank you for letting me join the forum. I have a love affair for the Philco 37-650, as it is the radio I grew up with. My twin brother and I would listen to Big Jon and Sparkie while my father would listen to Jack Benny. We would scan the newspaper radio schedule listings to see when special programs (like “No School Today”) would come on and then set our wind up alarm clock so we would not miss anything.  Alas, the 37-650 faded in oblivion as newer radios and TVs came more common but the memories never faded. The 37-650 grew old and sick and sat unused for decades.  It is now time for me to bring it back to life.

I am an amateur in electronics and try to learn more every day. I have read just about every article on the web about the 37-650 and am now about to attempt restoration. I hope lovers of this particular model will be able to continue to aid me in my quest.
In my exploration I have found that the chassis is 95% original and a few repairs appear to have been made, perhaps in the 1950’s. Visual inspection showed no burnt, melted or otherwise damaged parts. All the capacitors appear to be original Philco brand save for one. 
My initial test was to check for any shorts; this was done with a check of the windings of the transformer then a careful “power up” with a light bulb in series with the AC input. To my surprise nothing blew up or caught on fire!.  Local AM stations came in though faint. There was a 120 cycle hum (not unbearably loud but annoying.) The indicator lights were not functioning so I bought some new bulbs and repaired the light sockets for the dial and shadow meter.  I also purchased a tunable loop antenna (tecunAN-200) and, as the radio was in my 1929 one car garage, I made a local “earth ground” by tapping into an old 1 inch water pipe I could see thru a two inch crack in the concrete floor.
Next issue was to determine the antenna connections for the new loop; I finally decided to (after cleaning the terminals) to place the loop on terminal 1   with the jump connector tying in terminals 2 and 3. The shield wire from the tunable loop was placed on terminal two. My new “earth” ground wire went to terminal three.    I removed the chassis from the cabinet and placed it on a small table just behind the cabinet, in this way I could leave the speaker attached, the shadow meter was given a new front cover from the bottom of a frosted pill bottle and then placed in a plastic tray where I could see it. I placed tin foil around part of the bulb as the original metal casing around the bulb was missing. After lightly cleaning the chassis for dust and dirt, I was ready to test. (I am working on a 44 special bullet casing to make a new brass cover for the bulb.)
Surprise but the radio and shadow meter worked, at least partially. The shadow meter moves but not as “fine” as it should. On the band one the stations came in clear but mildly distorted. By adjusting the loop antenna dial I could get right onto the stations and they came in strongly. The radio dial was fairly accurate but not perfect. I could not find Big Jon and Sparkie L.  Bands two and three were dead except for 120 cycle hum.
The volume switch seemed to be working but had a few scratchy parts. The On Off switch for tone control was a different story. When the radio was turned on and in position one, the sound was very weak; in position two the sound was very bright; in position three the sound was bright; and in position four the sound was muffled. This told me that, if the tubes are not bad, then many capacitors will have to be replaced immediately.  
 
 
The only non Philco part appears to be a replacement of Bakelite capacitor part # 54 &54A, the Bakelite double (3615-YU) had been replaced with a Philco Bakelite single capacitor (8326 SU) and an external “American Capacitor”  .3 (?) mF  in a cardboard box.    The tuning section may have been removed and worked on at one time as a wire from chassis (6JFG base) had been cut and then repaired, repaired with very old cloth electrical tape. The tuning section front section (for part #20 oscillator transformer) has what appears to be a replaced part as it is white while the others are brownish (aged?) in color. There is also a bend in the metal of the tuning box in one section.  
My initial plan is to replace (restore) all the Bakelite capacitors and tubular paper capacitors with mylar film ones if feasible, however they would be replaced one by one and the radio tested after each replacement.  The aluminum can capacitors would be restored by opening the cans and using radial Mylar capacitors, if feasible. In that the aluminum can capacitors are primarily for the power supply, these should be the first to be restored. In that the tuning section will be the most difficult, this would be done last as the one section for broadcast band appears to be working correctly (why fix something that is working?). I would like to use capacitors that are between 20% to 30% over the originals and to have a WV of at least the original specification if not slightly higher.
My test equipment is very sparse at the moment. I have a digital multimeter and am attempting to restore an analog Triplett model 2400 (from 1946). My initial tests on the Triplett 2400, after replacing the leads with new wires and using a small 22 ½ volt battery, appear promising.  The 2400 was given to me and appears very clean inside, the ohms part is the only part I have tested so far. My Tek oscilloscope is currently not working and I may have to do without it for a while.
My questions to the group are:
1)     Does the order in which I want to restore it seem appropriate?
2)     Is Mylar a good substitute for the Bakelite and tubular electrolytic condensers?
3)     Is there anything I need to be super cautious about?
4)     Are there any resisters that I should automatically change
5)     Any other suggestions?
I have attached some pictures, I hope they make thru the web  . They are not great pictures but will give an idea about the chassis.
Thanks for any and all assistance.


I guess I don't know how to insert an image, :-((
#2

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

Here’s how to add photos: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=29

Replace the electrolytic caps first.
#3

The order you suggest (replace-test-replace-test) for recapping is unnecessarily long.
You should replace all electrolytic and backelite block caps.
You do know (against better advice you powered the radio up; bad idea but now that you have the information would be even worse to waste it) the radio is working, meaning it probably has all critical parts in order. So, start replacing all those caps (except mica) until done. Then retest.

The resistors are only replaced if way out of tolerance. Else leave them be.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#4

Welcome to the Forum. It sounds like you are well on your way. One caution for future radios that may save some hair pulling is to refrain from powering up a unit until the electrolytic caps are replaced. The dim bulb will guard against a short or defective power transformer but if the B+ is high it could damage other components when tubes conduct more than they should.

Like Bob said, start with the electrolytic caps, replacing them with aluminum electrolytic. They should fit inside the cans nicely. Then do the paper caps. The 2 on the primary of the power transformer should be Y2 safety caps. As you replace caps you can test resistors and replace the ones that are out of tolerance. I use 10%. Clean switches and controls next. The SW bands are usually not working because of the band switch or oscillator trouble. There's a lot of help here so go ahead and ask.

Rod
#5

Hi and welcome to the Phorum,
You may enjoy these:  https://archive.org/details/BIGJONANDSPARKY
Lots of good help here for all facets of Philco repairs.
GL

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

It’s ok to stuff the electrolytic cans with film capacitors. 

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#7

thankyou for the help. Can I replace the old electrolytic caps with mylar film ones? I will try again with photos    
#8

The two film caps run close to $40+shp. Didn't check the dimensions but may be too large in diameter the fit inside the can. Standard electrolytic are about $4...

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#9

...and there are some very good electrolytics that will last tens of years if picked well.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#10

Check Tube Depot. They sell Solens and are much less than you quoted. Lots of guys here are using Solen film caps. I've generally had little problem fitting them inside the original cans. Use the 630 volt caps.
#11

The last couple of restorations I have done I have used dipped film capacitors to stuff the electrolytic cans. Take a look here https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthrea...685&page=2   

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#12

   
Link to nostalgia air    http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/219/M0013219.htm    Info from Beitmans
#13

thank you everyone for helping on this. My puppy (lab) was ill on Saturday and we had a birthday party on Sunday thus my time on the computer has been limited. I did enjoy the link for Big Jon and Sparky, it brought back good memories. I see that Big Jon had a 1926 Essex and that his 1951 car was a lemon. I have been working on a 1928 Buick for the last 20 years and it will take another 20 to get it done :-). Though I know film photography stuff quite well this new digital stuff causes me mind fatigue - trying to learn a little about GIMP today and have never used Photoshop. Getting one of my Philco pictures resized in order to post makes me feel that I am in Kindergarten again; everything is a mystery. Hopefully I can get some capacitors ordered this week from the links that were kindly provided. I have an excellent book on Soldiering that I accidentally picked up from a used book store, " Solders and Soldering" by Manko. It is almost like a college textbook and I found out everything I was doing wrong for the last 40 years. I will re-post on my Philco restoration progress, each stage will be an adventure to be experienced.
#14

I am starting to figure out GIMP, I know know about 1% of it. Attached is a bottom view of the chassis which I reduced to under 1 meg from an 8Meg file (after three attempts).    
#15

July 22, 2020
Thank you all for the advice. I decided to tackle the “canned” electrolytic Philco “condensers” first before anything else. I used the 1939 Philco catalog to get cross references.
Part #57 Philco 30-2024 8 mF 450V
Part #59,#59A Philco 30-2163 10&20 mF 450V
Part #24 Philco 30-2118 (substitute 30-2194) 16 mF 475V
I have since ordered and received from the Tube Depot :
Solen “fast “ 8.2 mF/630V for 30-2024
Solen “fast “ 10 mF/630V for 30-2163
Solen “fast “ 15 mF/630V for 30-2118
Solen “fast “ 22 mF/630V for 30-2163
I have successfully opened the 30-2024 but have not prepared it for re-stuffing yet. I marked it up ½ inch from the bottom and used a hose clamp cinched around it to act as a saw blade guide. The 8 mF Solen will fit in it.
The 30-2163 dual capacitor can I have not opened yet but I did, thru measuring, find that the diameter of the Solen 22mF is too large to go into the can. I was using the film Solen because I wanted to avoid mistakes in polarity but I now realize that I will have to go with an electrolytic rather than film in order to fit. Can anyone suggest a good brand capacitor that will fit?
The smaller non power supply capacitors I was thinking of using “orange drops” but I see that they are available in only radial, and not axial. Would that be an issue?
As for the x/y capacitors, is there any suggestion as to whether I should use an X, Y, or an X/Y? It is hard to tell from the schematic but I believe that the Philco part # 65 (3793-DG) (.014 mF double Bakelite ) would have a “line to ground “ , the ground being to the chassis and negative. Is that a correct assumption?
Thanks for your help on this
Gary




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