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Alright so I've started tearing into my Philco 42-350 I just recently acquired and both dial strings are broken and missing along with the springs for them, and also the preset buttons are not working right and also the power switch isn't engaging and disengaging like it should, and I was wondering how I would go about repairing those items, specifically the power switch push button and the preset buttons.
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Deoxit D5.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CAIG-DeOxit-C...8=&veh=sem
Do not buy swivel head. Buy regular spray can.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 10-02-2020, 06:10 PM by morzh.)
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The power switch is not repairable. Suggest you replace the volume control with one that contains a switch on the rear.
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Could you put here a good photo of the switch?
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 10-02-2020, 09:20 PM by morzh.)
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OK, so here's the dealio, the power switch is working its just very sticky (it engages like it should, but it disengages with a little force, which I think its because the pushbutton mechanism needs a good lubing with WD40 or something like that.
However the preset buttons though I think are a lost cause because the little phenolic wafer in there that sets the travel/locks in the preset buttons is broken (see picture below), and unless there's a way to repair that I think the preset buttons are just going to have to remain unusable unfortunately.
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Try Deoxit D5 first, it seems like this type of switches is not sealed very well so it will penetrate - use the spaces around actuators. Unless the contacts are on the surface in the open - I am not sure what I am seeing tehre. If in the open - desolder, soak in mineral spirits, brush.....lots of grime there. Acetone might work too, if it is not plastic but a fenolic board. Of course do it outside, don't inhale.
Then once it dries, use Deoxit F5 - the fadder lube, it will take care of friction.
Other switches....try the same first. If it does not help - then, ok, look for a donor chassis.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2020, 10:48 AM by morzh.)
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The area in the red circle is the broken phenolic board joint.
That's the phenolic board piece that helps control the preset push buttons, unfortunately because it's broken it don't allow the preset push buttons to function anymore, the power switch isn't affected by that phenolic board.
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Yeah....that will take a replacing to do. Phenolic boards, especially those constantly moved, do not glue well at all. And that is, if there is something left to glue to.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Try epoxy or super glue????? Mike is most likely correct, though. On my 41-295 I was able to replace/repair the push button switch. I found a new switch that I was able to use parts of to repair the original. Drilled out the rivets and replaced them with machine screws. I don't have any pics. It is working perfectly.
(This post was last modified: 10-03-2020, 01:34 PM by rfeenstra.)
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I think he has pieces broken off that are no longer there, so there is nothing to glue with.
If he finds other parts to cannibalize - then yes, but then no gluing would be be necessary.
I was able to repair my Zenith tone ctl switch but then that is not moved often, and I since glued it once again. Think phenolic wafer.....many people break it when pulling Zeniths' chassis out of cabinets.....I had to gain my own experience
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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All the parts are there for the phenolic board it's just whether or not they can be glued back together and stay glued.
There's a spring and metal clip holding part of the phenolic board into place that I can't seem to get to come loose, that's what's holding up the works right now, and that spring is what causes the push buttons to spring back out when you push another button in.
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