[flyer92]

Greetings and hope all is well! I just purchased a Philco 38-12 whose cabinet looks like it was refinished in a high school shop class, and I am planning to strip off the old stain and finish, which might be varnish or lacquer (something else...who knows?). I am no stranger to this, and often use Citristrip for vintage rifle stocks. However...unlike old gun stocks, this cabinet is made of veneers and has a couple of nice inlays (see example photo below), which I don't want to damage. I've always liked Citristrip because it seems to be a bit gentler than other products, but I am afraid that it might cause the veneers and/or inlays to separate. I'm still a newbie to these nice old radios, so appreciate any advice or recommendations from the experts! Many thanks.

[Patrick]

I've used Citristrip for many years on hundreds of radios. Never had a problem. And I just did a 38-12 last month. Even have to use two coats often, cleaning it off with lacquer thinner. Sometimes 3 coats if they used poly. All's good.

[RodB]

I've used Citristrip on many radios and haven't had a problem. I think it says to leave it on for 30 minutes then scrape it off. I've found that it removes much more if you leave a nice thick coat on for about two hours.

[flyer92]

Many thanks.  I assumed that Citristrip might be OK, but just wanted to ask the experts before jumping into this project.  Also agree about keeping a nice thick coat on the surface for 2 hours or so.  I usually do this twice on other wood projects, and it works really well.  Most importantly, my wife doesn't complain about it because it smells like oranges!

[Chas]

I'm not an expert on all Philco model finishes, BUT (there is always a but) the "inlay" may not be wood but a FAUX finish that will disappear when stripper is applied. Someone on the forum may know better about this model...

FWIK, using a magnifier, the grain will have an appearance of a newspaper image, tiny, tiny dots...

FAUX finish is a paper or decal film applique with an exotic wood grain design often pre-tinted and adhered over the base wood veneer...  chas

[Patrick]

The 38-12 is NOT faux. Just did one.

[Chas]

Thanks for the heads up, surely, flyer92 will take note   chas

[morzh]

Inlaid models did not use faux finish. In Philcos i usually was either / or.
38-12 is all inlay.

[flyer92]

Good copy, and thanks for the advice...I hadn't considered the possibility of faux. Much appreciated.

[flyer92]

Since it looks like at least a couple of you have refinished the 38-12 specifically, I was just curious what products/processes you'd recommend for a complete refinish from bare wood.  Probably a pipe dream, but I'd like it to match the attached photo to the greatest possible extent.  Many thanks for the advice and recommendations!

[Patrick]

Not a pipe dream at all! Here's mine:

[Image: https://i.imgur.com/a8iY39K.jpg]

I know. There's a blemish I didn't work on. But anyway, after stripping, I used Provincial stain on the entire radio. The top and bottom edges were coated with Mohawk Extra Dark Walnut. Then coated with many coats of nitro-cellulose lacquer. After curing for 2 weeks, it was hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool and beeswax.

[flyer92]

WOW...that looks incredible! I was concerned whether the stain would collect within the seams around the inlays and appear as dark outlines, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Given your amazing results I might just try the same thing, but had a few questions:

-When you stripped it down to bare wood, did you use sandpaper or steel wool before applying the stain? If, so, what grit? This obviously has a noticeable effect on how the stain permeates the wood, but would prefer to minimize wood removal if possible.

-As for both stains, were these oil or water based? Aerosol spray or brush-on? Both Mohawk?

-Can you please advise on which lacquer brand you used, and if it was spray or brush-on?

-How many coats of lacquer did you apply?

Apologies for all the questions, but I want to be sure I use the exact same products in an attempt to achieve similar results, although I'm certain it won't look as nice as your work of art! Really appreciate it.

[Patrick]

I sand with 220 grit. Stain is oil based wipe or brush-on. Doesn't matter if it's Mineax or whatever. I've used various brands with the same results. Mohawk is spray can. I prefer Lenmar Nitro-Cellulose lacquer, shot through an HVLP gun at 10 psi, but you can spray Deft brush-on also. I use gloss only. The steel wool cuts it to satin. Gloss is harder. I give 10 coats of approx. 65/35, usually with 1 ounce of retarder per quart, since the humidity is so high here in Florida. Any water-slide decals should be applied after 5 coats.

If you need grain filler, I use Timbermate before staining. Even though it's water-based, it's very easy to work with. There's all my secrets.

[flyer92]

Really appreciate all the secrets, although I'm not sure I'll have as good a product because I don't have a spray gun and have never worked with beeswax before.  I like using Danish oil on my other projects, but was actually a little reticent to do so with a vintage radio, since I thought it might be a safety issue to use a flammable, oil-based product on surfaces adjacent to aging electronics.  It seems like you and others prefer oil-based, so I'll likely proceed with Danish oil, but will incorporate some of your other techniques/products in the course of my restoration.  Again...MANY thanks for sharing.  Not everyone is always willing to do so, which is understandable, but this will definitely get me started in the right direction.  Much appreciated.

[Patrick]

I was helped alot on this forum (and still am) by others. Just want to return the favor. Remember also, lacquer was what was used by the manufacturer (usually, if not exclusively).