[Ron Ramirez]

Brandon

Look into the Central Ohio Antique Radio Association in Columbus. They have quarterly meetings as well as swap meets. I've been to one of their "Cabin Fever" meets in January 2010, and it was a good, fairly large, meet.

But anyway...there will probably be one or more members who would be willing to help you one-on-one with your radio. Any Philco made between 1939 and 1942 with all of its rubber-covered wires is not a good set for a beginner to work on.

http://coara.tripod.com/

[Glenn Roberts]

"Trial by Philco..." that, sir is a phrase WIN.

lol!

[regel_1999]

Ron,

Thanks for the info on the Columbus Ohio Antique Radio Association. I'm definately going to go find someone to teach me this in person. Not that you all aren't doing a great job, it's just sometimes I need someone to slap me on the head, point, and grunt at a particular problem.

I was also considering that the philco I got may be a nice radio when fixed up, but may be a project that would better suit me in a few radios. Something down the road when I have a bit more confidence and experience with these old things.

Furthermore, these great books I got are awesome. One's an Electrical Engineering book from 1953 called "Electron Tube Circuits" and explains the thoery behind the different amplifiers, how the tubes actually work, the types of tubes, etc along with the math behind it all and how to calculate the expected voltages. It also explains how to figure out the expected wave forms, but sycroscopes are expensive and I don't have the money to spend on one of those. It's nice because after reading just the first few chapters I understand the different materials of tubes and the basic principles as to how they work. Oh yes, my friend, I went into this restoration project totally blind and face first.

the other two are Allied Radio's Circuit Handbooks, one from 46 and the other from the 50's. Both have great explanations of the different components common in radios - you know, amps, power supplies, etc. They also have about ten vacuum tube circuits of Allied Radio's radios/kits. At least with these when I'm staring at this old radio schematic, I can start piecing everything together. I can now identify the what each tube is actually doing (amping, outputting, etc)! /Win for me...

I also went to a local antique store. There's an old RCA Victor radio, model 56x6, I think from 1946, that looks like it's in very good condition for restoration. All the tubes are there, the wires don't have rubber peeling off them, it's relatively clean, and I know it's not quite a Philco, but it's being offered at $15.00. It's actually in notably better condition than my Philco was when I started. Has anyone worked on one of these? Would it be a good starter radio? Anything else I should check before I purchase this tube radio? Thanks for any input and I'll definately check out COARA, Ron!

-Brandon

[Radioroslyn]

Hi Brandon,
Couldn't find any info on the RCA 56x6 but did find a 56X5. Kinda similar to the Philco in that it's a AC/DC set. Same precautions should be used when working on this guy, hot chassis and all. $15 seems like good price covers BC band and one SW band.Picture here:http://radio.macinmind.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=147&g2_fromNavId=xc8fba783 Diagram here:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/996/M0014996.pdf
Have fun!
Terry
ps looks like it has a faux finish. Don't use stripper on it!

[Ed Locker]

Hi regel

Where are you located in Ohio? I'm in Newark.

Possibly you could bring your 42-327 over sometime and I could help you out.

Ed

[regel_1999]

Hi Ed,

I'm in Columbus. I think you're only about 50 miles away from here - not too far. I may take you up on that offer soon. I can't go this weekend, but the following Sunday I could or pretty much any time that following week (spring break and the midshipmen will all be gone!).

Thanks for the offer and I'll stay in touch! I also bought an RCA Victor 56x5 Superhet. It looks to be in better condition, electrically speaking. I just need to recap it, re-powercord it, and I think she'll be ready to rock to some good ol' shortwave and AM.

Look forward to working with you, Ed!

-Brandon

[rplackey]

Not sure if you ever got the answer to 170V at speaker windings........ I assume you are measuring the voltage at the field winding and not the audio output transformer. If there is no load on the B+ supply, then the voltage at the field winding should be close to the PEAK of the line voltage. At 120 VAC input, the peak voltage is 170 Volts (120 x 1.414). This PEAK will be stored in both capacitors around the field coil and will drop as current is drawn. One way to see if the 50L6 is drawing current is to measure the cathode voltage (voltage across the 130 ohm resistor). If the voltage is zero, then no current is flowing.

I also have a Philco 42-327. In the back of the set, attached to a wire that ties to the bank of tuning capacitors is a small sheet metal piece approximately 1.5" x 2". This piece has a hole in it (approx 1/2" dia) with jagged edges and is attached to a cardboard insulator. Does anyone have an idea what this piece is used for and/or where it should be attached. Mine is simply loose inside the back of the radio.

Bob

[regel_1999]

BOB!

You've solved the 170 volt problem! That makes a lot of sense, actually. I'll test the 50L6 tube the way you said when I get home from work. Thank you, maybe my problems aren't actually as bad as I thought... I hope to be a proud owner of a 42-327 soon too. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it turns out.

-Brandon

[Ron Ramirez]

I also have a Philco 42-327. In the back of the set, attached to a wire that ties to the bank of tuning capacitors is a small sheet metal piece approximately 1.5" x 2". This piece has a hole in it (approx 1/2" dia) with jagged edges and is attached to a cardboard insulator. Does anyone have an idea what this piece is used for and/or where it should be attached. Mine is simply loose inside the back of the radio.

Bob

I just looked inside my 42-327, and mine does not have anything like you describe. Perhaps you could share a photo?

[regel_1999]

Bob and Ron,

I think this is the part Bob is talking about. It was originally attached as some sort of protector for the dial light.

If this isn't the part, then I don't think I have what Bob's talking about either

-Brandon

[rplackey]

Thanks much, yes, the part appears to be a reflector around the pilot light (fits perfectly). I will try to attach a photo (Can't, photo file size was too large). Just saw picture you sent. This is it exactly. Mine has a lead attached to it that is soldered to chassis..............

Thanks again, Bob

[Ron Ramirez]

I assume, then, that you two have 42-327, Code 122 sets with a 115 volt pilot lamp?

Mine is Code 121, and has a 6 volt pilot lamp. It does not have any sort of shield. It would make sense for the 115 volt bulb to have a shield because of the extra heat generated by the 115 volt bulb.

[regel_1999]

Woo Hoo!

This was the first question I answered! I announced in a previous post that I would, one day, start answering questions. Today is that day!

Ron, I do have a code 122 with the 115v bulb. I didn't know the 121 didn't have the little shield.

-Brandon

[rplackey]

Mine also has a 120 V pilot light............ really lights up the tuning glass..... thanks again.
Brandon, did you ever determine the cause of your 170V B+ supply? Sounds like a broken wire/loose connection or open speaker field winding.

Bob

[regel_1999]

Bob,

Funny thing happened. I had a student with a project. The student just so happened to need two electrolytic filter caps for his project. I happened to have two in a non-working radio, so I gave them to him and put in a new order for two more... so I haven't really had a chance to plug in and determine what the problem was. I suspect it's what you said in your post, but I won't find out until I'm able to get the caps in.

I'll definitely let you know when I get the radio working what the issue was.

-Brandon