[sschlager]

I am restoring my wife's Philco 41-290X she just inherited. I finished the cabinet a month ago and have been slowly working on the chassis. I know how to solder and desolder but know nothing about electronics in regards to capacitors and resistors etc. I have read the other posts that deal with similar issues but when I try and search for what everyone says to use I get lost. 

Capacitors, Resistors and Whatchamacallits...Like I said I don't know much about electronics and the foreign language symbols etc. I do know how to figure things out and do what I'm told. 

Parts Numbers

30-4519s
30-4518s
30-4572x                         These range from 200 to 1000 Volts and .003 to .05 What is a compatible swap out of these paper capacitors  
30-4579D
30-4469s


Would anyone be willing to post what I need, maybe a link to the product and or what it looks like. I have resleeved most of the wires I can get to, waiting to do the rest that are soldered with the capacitors. Basically my hold up are the capacitors and whatever else I may need to replace. 

Oh I also need to know what these are and what to replace them with. They are like batteries but have wires coming out of them. I have posted an image of them, they have the plus and minus symbols. http://www.sls-photography.com/radio/Radio2.jpg

And lastly for this post there is a component that that has the part number 32-8120N that I am not sure what it is and if it should be replaced since it looks in bad shape. Picture also added. http://www.sls-photography.com/radio/Radio.png While looking at this image...at the top there is a blue capacitor, which I think is newish, should I leave this since it is not a paper wax capacitor? 


Thanks, 

Shaun 

[cparsons2391]

Here is a link to a place you can buy the parts you need. http://www.tuberadios.com/capacitors/ I have purchased from Sal several times with no problems.

You will need to replace the wax-coated capacitors. Replace the blue capacitor as well.

32-8120N looks to be a transformer and should be fine.

You will also need to look at the black box right below 32-8120N . It contains two capacitors that will need to be replaced both .01 . They need to be safety caps and you can get those from Sal.

[mikethedruid]

Yup, I've dealt with Sal myself. Great source to buy from.

[sschlager]

Thanks for the information. When I go to the page, this is where I get lost when purchasing...Axial Film, Metalized Polypropylene, ceramic disk, metallized radial film, Radial etc... 

I am guessing it is the yellow Axial Capacitors that I need. Do I swap them all out with the 630v and match the uf the best I can? I know some say 200v, 400, and 1000v.

Will be putting in an order as soon as I can verify that information. I really appreciate this everyone. 


Thanks, 
Shaun

[cparsons2391]

Shaun,

Yes, use the yellow Axial Capacitors at 630v and match the uf. They will work just fine.

On the black-box use Radial Y2-AC Safety Disk Capacitors (Blue) of size .01

[RodB]

Hi Shaun, the values for modern capacitors are pretty close to original. If you want to replace a .05mfd the closest modern value is .047, .033 replaces .03 and these will work just fine. If you go with exact values then look at paying for it. Stay with the poly film caps at 630 volts. The original waxies are 20% tolerance. The large tubular parts with the polarity marked are the power supply filter caps which are called electrolytic capacitors. Replace them with aluminum electrolytics of similar values. That blue cap is a paper from a different maker, probably a replacement. It's difficult to say what the connector is for. Usually external connections are for speakers or phonograph input. A check with the schematic will tell. While you replace the caps test the resistors and replace the ones that are 10-20% over. Most of your resistors are half watt but you can check the parts list for the correct size. Those squarish molded parts are mica capacitors and rarely go bad. Check back in with your questions and progress. Plenty of help here.

[n1ps]

If not mentioned, add a fuse.  Use a fuse block under the chassis.  All bypass caps across the hot side must be on the fused side.  Use at least a polarized Ac plug.  Good luck with the rebuild.  Enjoy.

Peter

[sschlager]

When was the last time someone ordered from Sals? I have been trying to get a hold of him about two parts and haven't heard back from him. I want to get my order in so I can get this thing running.

[morzh]

I think I ordered once about 2 years gao or so, but since I found it convenient ordering from Mouser.
Yes his caps are cheaper and all, and they are probbaly good, and I have been using them but then I do not know who makes them and where. They are yellow capacitors with no markings on them other than the value, voltage and tolerance.

This last time when I needed replenishing my stock, since I was ordering from Mouser, I ordered the caps from there also.

And Mouser these days habitually upgrades the shipping to the second day FedEx.

[sschlager]

Not being an electronics guy I was getting lost on mouser.

[morzh]

Mouser to me has the best search engine out of all the catalogs.
It is only a catalog - remember that. No different from any other on-line catalog. With excellent search engine. As long as you work under Windows.

Go to Mouser.com, go to Passives, go to capacitors. You do not even have to sort what cap it is.

Put in value (requires a little getting accustommed to but easi nevertheless), voltage and tolerance; then simply pick "axial".

It will automaticlaly give you mostly film caps, because say 0.047uF 630V axial cap is most likely a film cap.

then go by price/mfr of your liking.

I advise creating a project and when picking a cap do "adding to project"; then simply order the project.

[mikethedruid]

When shopping for replacements for the paper condensers in radios I am working on I have used several sources. One I use often is:  https://www.justradios.com/    I have always had good luck with them, and the prices are reasonable, especially when buying in quantity. A source I have use most recently is:  https://hayseedhamfest.com/   They are a great source for condensers for restoring old "boat anchor" communications receivers, as well as for complete kits which include all the electrolytic and poly condensers to replace every paper and electrolytic condenser in the set. I haven't asked about it, but they do make custom replacement can type electrolytics, so it may pay to ask about special ones you need.

[Arran]

The capacitors are going to be the least of your problems with any 1941 model Philco, the real headache is replacing the rubber covered wire which has likely gone bad. WJOE radio is a good source of caps, Sal's, and Mouser as well, though navigating the site is a bit involved.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Sal is ok - he is taking a sabbatical for a couple weeks so that he can (a) catch up on customer orders and (b) do some things around his home. Please be patient. Sal is a great guy to deal with.

Beware ordering caps from Mouser - sometimes you end up with capacitors with very short leads which are intended for PC work, especially with radial film caps. Sal's radial and axial caps have long leads.

[Arran]

I have bought from Radio Daze in the past, but they don't seem to carry axial lead film caps anymore, just imitation orange drops. As I was saying Mouser is tricky to use, you have to make sure you include lead length in their search engine, not to mention making sure that you don't order surface mount caps, though I don't think the latter come in higher voltage ratings anyhow.
Regards
Arran