Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 51-1733 Console Humming
#1

Hi guys,

I found a Philco 51-1733 console at goodwill that someone wired a modern turntable into. It’s in really great shape apart from a hole in front on the speaker and a decent hum that I can’t get rid of. It does go down slightly when I turn the tuning and volumes knobs up to a specific point. This will replace an RCA solid state direct drive console that spins to quickly but has no hum.

I’m new to vintage sound and have no experience with tubes or wiring. I believe I have a functioning amp as every tube is lit and hot. I found the manual on the site which will come in handy. I’m in Colorado Springs in case anyone knows of local repairs or parts if necessary.

Thanks,


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#2

Nice! The hum is most likely due to electrolytic capacitors that are bad due to age. Probably should not plug it in again until the entire unit is "re-capped". That involves replacing all of the electrolytic and tubular capacitors. You risk letting the smoke out if you try to run it before that is done!

Welcome to the Phorum! Lots of help here.
#3

What he said!

Or for a laugh

It hums cause it doesn't know the words

Gregb
#4

It’s now unplugged, thanks for the heads up! I can’t find which kind of capacitors it needs in the manual. Could they be called something different? Also, is this a pretty simple fix or should I find someone who knows that they’re doing?

Thanks for the info
#5

Second ditto.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#6

Third times the charm!!!

"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
#7

Unless you want to get into it, and this is not a very safe hobby for those who has no experience, not to ward you off or anything, but I would say, find someone.

Also, these 40s-50s consoles (I am working on one now) are not for the faint of heart.

I would recommend starting from 30s consoles or tabletops. The early ones. Like a 90 or a 70. Walk in the park.
If you want to take on this one:

Every single tubular paper cap has to be replaced.
Every electrolytic cap has to be replaced.
The resistors have to be measured and should they happen to be outside +/-20% - replaced.
Tubes tested and replaced as needed.
And then if you are lucky this is it, if not - shorts, open coils......

Then the alignment. You will need equipment for that. And then there is FM too.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#8

Yes to what Mike (morzh) says! This is a complicated project. Do not expect 1960's high end audio results, but still a very worthwhile project. A knowledgeable person in these things would be good to find as they could bring it back to full operating potential. 1951, a very good year! The year I was born.

Send me a case of real Coors, would you!? Brewery not too far from you.
#9

I just finished up a Philco 51-1731. You can see below what to expect inside. They sound nice when they have had the proper work done.

   

“We are not necessarily doubting that God will do the best for us; we are wondering how painful the best will turn out to be.”
―Letters to an American Lady,  C.S. Lewis

http://www.cparso.com/
#10

If you know how to solder, and can learn to read circuit diagrams., these sorts of sets are not too bad to work on , though because it's an AM/FM job you won't be able to align the FM side without some special equipment. The service info from that era is laid out pretty nicely, Philco was kind enough to break the circuitry down into blocks, sometimes with potential faults listed for each. I don't agree, other then pontential trouble with the mica capacitors in the I.F cans these sorts of sets are good for practicing restoration skills. One more thing, although you probably know this, the original record changer is missing, but once you figure things out you could probably use the amp with a different one, which is what it looks like you may have been trying in the picture. You could probably find a replacement unit out of a junker, if you really want the unit all original. Whatever you do, do not try stripping and refinishing the cabinet doors, the marquetry pattern is a faux finish.
Regards
Arran




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 6168 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 6167 Guest(s)
Avatar

>