I think I my have posted a little about the chassis of this set but I'm back at it again. Received a parcel which contained the much needed dial drive. I have had the project up on blocks till I got a suitable replacement. Ed H came thru again in my search for 16B spares. Got the torch out and unsolder the extension that was protruding out from the tuning condenser. Feels good to get that wart off of the chassis!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
I put the little fuzzy glides on the bottom of the 38-17F and call it done for now and back to the 16B. Over the last week or so I've restuffed the bakelite caps, found one that had a cap and a 250 ohm resistor in it too, cut open the ecap and fitted it w/2 10mfd caps, checked the carbon resistors, rebuilt the five section bypass cap, and a bunch of other stuff...
The coneless speaker got a small pm speaker connected to it for test purposes and made up the speaker cable. Couldn't find a Philco speaker socket to add to the chassis at this point. For now it's just temporarily connected as it will be headed over to Sound Remedy.
Had everything wired up and the 80 in place flipped the switch and voltmeter swung up to 300v but no sound. Hmmm no plate volt on the 77 1st audio missing resistor. Fixed that had audio but no signal. Measured some random voltages and found the screen grid voltage for the mixer and IF amps was 30v hmmm seem lowwwwww. Put a pin in it and warmed up the generator and aligned the IF. It passed a signal but wasn't overly sensitive.
Now for the rookie mistake. I assumed that the set was working more or less when it was retired. I didn't pull all of the tubes and check them out. Someone had swapped a 6C6 for the 77 mixer, bad move. They have the same base connection and electrically are similar but didn't work at all in this set. Replaced w/a 77 and started playing fine. The 30v then up to 80v.
I did find one common thing that I was wondering about. On both of these 16's the 1st position of the tone switch seems to have some level of treble cut. Sound just a little muffled. I was fooling around with contact and sound brighten up. I'm thinking that there is leakage at that contact.
Still lots to do. Shadow meter bulb holder is broken, grommets for the tuning cap, a good clean it's filthy, fix up Rube Goldberg dial drive, remove the IF transformer covers and clean/replace grid wires, do like wise w/the rf coil covers, and maybe give the choke and driver transformer a lick of paint.
It's been playing for abt 4hrs and hasn't burst into flames or set my domicile on fire. Transformer is warm but not hot so all is good.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-06-2020, 10:49 AM by Radioroslyn.)
So this more of a what not to do on a 16-121 chassis.
Replaced the tires on the dial drive. Two of them were made from neoprene parts. The tire behind the dial was the most difficult. My next door is a plumber and I told him about my dilemma. He came up with this for me. https://www.fernco.com/dimensional-drawi...56/1056-22 Was made from made of neoprene. Cut off a slice about 5/16 wide and it fit great on the back of the dial. Only one problem too thick GRRRRR. Made a jig to mount it and spin it to sand it down about an 8th or 3/16 of an inch. Was a trial and error process. Shifts from low to high dandy.
Next adventure was cleaning up the top of the chassis and the tuning cap. Removed the cap took apart the trimmers and give it a wash in mineral spirits then a spray of tuner cleaner. Added new wires. Removed IF cans to clean and replace wires. No broken ceramic this time. Clean rf coil covers. Put it all back together new rubbers under the cap. BC alignment went fine along with bands 2/3. 4 and 5 were a problem SURPRISE!!!! Trimmer all the way in dial was about a mc out. After fussing with it for a few hours I found the problem. It was not a good problem but is guess that's it's called a problem!
Time for the JD weld...
After this misadventure it's ready to go short of the speaker. Did replace the shadow meter and rewire that stuff..,. Pics later.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 02-18-2021, 10:44 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Here's some pic's. I think I broke the the band switch when removing the front hex screw that holds the tuning cap in place. It's kinda tight there and a somewhat large 3000 mmfd mica & 10k resistor are soldered to the switch. If you bump the cap you can break the wafer. Trust me on that.
Fortunately it didn't break at the spacer and there a bit of wafer left on both sides. Access is good once the mica cap is cut loose. It's 3000mmfd 3% I searched online and found a 1% job, I may bite the bullet buy one as it's abt 1/5 the size of the original.
Next have to read up on the do's/don't on JD weld. Cleaned up the wafer last night. I have some of the Kwik setting weld (6min) cures in 6 hrs. Don't know that I believe that I would let it go for a few days at least. If any of yous guys have any comments please do.
Still have the two fastenstock clips on back to fix, all bent up. Add plug for spk. Found one on my 200X chassis I've decided to part it out it's just missing too much stuff that particular to the 200. Probably can render some parts for the 201X but the rf and if sections are pretty different. Recone spkr and finish cabinet and it will all done!!!!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Did a trial run w/the JB Weld just to see how it works. This is the Quick set stuff. I found the that it doesn't really set in 6 mins more like 20 mins. Gets hard under a 60w bulb after about 12hrs, probably not full strength but for this application it's definitely strong enough. As of now I've had it about 8" away from 60w lamp to keep it warm for the last 20hrs. Seems great.
I was kinda dreading it that I was going to misaligned the contacts and have a real mess on my hands...
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 02-25-2021, 06:56 PM by Radioroslyn.)
The bandswitch is back together and connected. Started to do the oscillator alignment and it's back to it's old tricks again.
Bcb went ok.
Band 2 alignment is a little quirky. Set the osc # 1570kc @ the low end and 3.6mc at the high end. Struck me a little funny that there is no hash mark for 1570 must have been an after thought. I did that and just for grins I check to see where it was receiving at 4 mc (the top of the dial) 3.8 mc. Hmmm Doesn't track so well. Made the executive decision to set the osc at 4460kc and now it tracks across the whole range of the dial.
Band 3 Set trimmer at 5.2 mc. Doesn't do much at all. Need to investigate to see what's going on.
Bands 4/5 Aligns fine at the top end but the low end is way off. This is a little different from the problem I was having with the other 16b it was dying out. This stays running but about a mc too high. Bands 3,4,and 5 are all related maybe that trimmer on band 3 will straighten things out. [Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...on_lol.gif] Fat chance [Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...wisted.gif] Must be the curse of the 16B...
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
I can't speak for the JB variety, but haven't had much luck with the garden variety 5 minute epoxy glues, it's weaker then the 24 hour kind, and doesn't seem to set as hard. I haven't tried fixing a bandswitch wafer with epoxy yet, but have repaired a tube socket or two, and quite a few Bakelite cabinets.
Regards
Arran
This particular situation there is very little torque/force applied to the wafer. Some rotatory switches have fingers that pinch the rotor where these glide over the top of them. That's the good news. It means alignment is somewhat critical. If the wafer is pitched away from the stator it could yield poor connections.
When I bought it I didn't buy it for this job. I was out on one of my few outings and seemed like a good thing to have in my tool box. The strength between the two 6hr and 24hr set time far exceeded what I thought I would need, wasn't trying to repair an engine block or cylinder head. So it was just a matter of picking between 6 or 24 hr and that was a no brainier.
I talked with Kirk about the 6hr set and he told me that he tried it and it never set up at all. That was a little bothersome! That's why I did a trial run just to be sure it would harden. Did google and read posts on arf. It didn't have glowing reviews. But for now I'd give it a [Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...humbup.gif]
I don't think I've used epoxy to repair Bakelite. Mostly cyanoacrylate and fiberglass/resin/bondo. Sometimes aluminum backing although it makes the repair kinda thick on the inside. But SG is a mystery. Sometimes you put it on and it works great. Other times it stays wet never dries or it runs all over the place glues things you don't want glued. It's 50/50 gamble and didn't want to take the risk on the bandswitch.
I know all yous guys like pics so here's one of the bs all wired up and working.
GL
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 02-26-2021, 12:01 PM by Radioroslyn.)
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