Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Poll: Refinish, or not refinish? - You do not have permission to vote in this poll.
Refinish!
0%
0
0%
Leave it alone!
100.00%
2
100.00%
* You voted for this item. Show Results

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

1924 FADA Neutrola: Refinish, or not?
#1

Hello folks.  I have a 1924 FADA Neutrola.  This is the large table model (would take up the whole table) with flip-down front door (forms an arm rest for the operator).  I'm trying to decide whether to refinish the solid mahogany cabinet, or leave it as-is.  The cabinet is in very good condition except that the original lacquer (or shellac?) has alligatored.  The cabinet is also very dark.  I've seen a picture of one of these that was a dark cherry color with a beautiful lacquer shine, and it was beautiful.  On the other hand, the current finish kind of tells the radio's history.  I also have the original owner's manual, in perfect condition, which adds to that historical sense.  Does anyone have an opinion?  Should I refinish this radio (assume I do a very good job at it), or just leave it alone?   Thank you in advance for your feedback.  -Dion


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#2

You will likely get as many opinions on this as there are folks that will respond.  I think the finish does look reasonably good and if just the lacquer is what is alligatored you may be able to reamalgamate the lacquer to improve the existing finish without doing a total refinish.  That will keep the original toner and look.  The advantage is that if it does not work you can still do the full refinish.  I'd give it a good cleaning first to get all he dirt off.  That might even improve it enough for you.  I have never done a reamalgamation but there are many references if you google it and there are likely folks here who have done it.  Just two examples: https://homesteady.com/how-8153457-repai...inish.html  and the other https://home.howstuffworks.com/home-impr...finish.htm

Let us know what you decide and how it goes!
#3

Thank you for your feedback, Bob.  I will check out those links.   -Dion
#4

Finish is beautiful.
Clean it and preserve it. On that I would just clean it with all original GoJo hand cleaner and #00000 steel wool \. #0000 is ok but we are just moving the GoJo around. not scrubbing. Light pressure. The GoJo will do the work. After that is done wait 3 hours. Then apply Howards Restor-A-Finish from online or at the hardware store. Then let it dry for another few hours. If it has dull spots it means the Howards was sucked into the wood so re-apply. Once the wood is done drinking and it has dried 2 hours you can apply the Howards Feed-N-Wax. This is the important step as it seals and protects the wood. Just applying Howards Restor-A-Finish is not good enough. The Howards will slowly evaporate and dull down. Then you have to do it all over again. You will be amazed at the finish when done.
Kirk Icon_smile

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#5

Kirk, thank you for your advice. I will try your process first. I can always get more aggressive if the finish does not respond to it. -Dionj
#6

The finish is tinted shellac then French polished in critical areas. Heat and sunlight have both caused the finish to flow and the shellac to further darken. A very good cleaning as Kirk suggested is the best way to go. The problem is most folks cannot manage a re-finish in shellac. It does take skill as does the subsequent French polishing. The shellac would require separate tinting if a commercial product cannot be found.

I once owned a Radiola 28, very dirty and alligator. Much of the alligator went away just with the cleaning. I did not re-finish as it gave the radio the character of age that cannot be ever duplicated unless one want to wait 95 years... My cleaner at the time was Murphy's oil soap floor strength using dampened rags.

Howard's restorer is a good product to re-amalgamate a shellac finish and preserve the shellac tint, choose the correct color to compliment the original finish.

I do not use GoJo because of the lanolin and sterate residue could retard drying of any finishing product applied later.

Since the finish is not flaking off, there is no pourus wood to create a dull area.

Great you rescued this radio...

GL chas

Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
#7

Kirk's suggestions are the exact same process and products that I use.  I also agree with Kirk that your cabinet has a beautiful patina.  Good luck with however you decide to go.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#8

If it is shellac there are french polishing supplies available online if you want to try them, but it's a slow process. I think part of why it has alligatored is someone may have had a go at brushing shellac, or lacquer on top of the original finish, then again it could partially be wax buildup. In all honesty a proper refinish won't devalue the radio, most of these 1920s sets are not worth big dollars where such things matter, so stripping and refinishing the cabinet is an option, if done properly. I would rub the finish down with turpentine, or mineral spirits with a rag, see how it comes out.
Regards
Arran




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM
Philco model 40-100
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on f...mhamby — 05:59 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Hello, Richard the radio is an AC-2687 Studebaker model. The Philco model is S -5323 and the chassis p/n is S-5523Pdouglaski — 11:52 AM
48-482 rear panel help
The 48-482 is an AC only set as well, featuring a power transformer. While the transformer shouldn’t get “hot”, it is ye...jrblasde — 11:12 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I gave a Chrysler/MoPar car radio from 1954, it was made by Philco, and it uses two chassis, one has the power supply an...Arran — 11:06 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Hello keithchip. You could make a hardboard back for the set, but make sure you provide plenty of ventilation holes in ...GarySP — 11:04 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 789 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 787 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>