Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 49-909
#1

Hi, just started looking this radio over I have all the caps but one, it is the 2uf 50V in section 3, I-F detector and A-V-C circuits.
I do have a 4.7 400V, would that be a bit much for this.

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#2

I think I would order a 2MFD condenser, maybe 100V. Looking at how that one is used, I am not sure if the higher capacity might screw something up, though probably not. Besides, the 4.7MFD 400V condenser is going to be a lot bigger than what you need there size wise.
#3

thank you

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#4

This radio has a current limiting resistor, a 25 ohm part # 33-1334-5 what is the wattage. It is flex type resistor.

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#5

Look in the library section from the home page of this website. There in the 1957 parts and accessories catalog, on page 28, you will find the listing for part 33-1334-5. The 33-1334 part indicates a flexible wire wound, fiberglass covered resistor, the last 5 indicates which one, in this case, a 25 ohm 2 watt resistor, with a body length of 1 inch, which in 1957 sold for 35 cents. if you are replacing it with a more modern type, you will want to go with a 5 watt wire wound, I would say....
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...dition.pdf
#6

Thanks Mike, I now have some on order.

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#7

Ordered a new volume control to replace the bad one.

I have a question, if I replace the 117Z3 rectifier tubes (2) with a 1N4007 diode & resistor, will I have to strap pin 3&4 the heater pins. It looks to this may not be necessary because they are not in the series with the other tube heaters?

What do you think?

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#8

I wouldn't but it would be real exciting if you did!!!
If you connect 3 and 4 together on the 117Z3 you'll be shorting the ac line out.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#9

I think you answered your own question. The filaments are not needed for 1n4007 diodes. Don't forget that the silicone diodes only have a .7volt drop across them. Your voltages will be higher than the tubes.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#10

WOW I blew that one thanks.

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#11

.pdf 49 909 power.pdf Size: 216.52 KB  Downloads: 150

How would you place the diodes and resistors to replace the 117Z3 rectifier.
I have read that the diode would go from pin 5 to 6 band toward pin 6. Would that be true for both of these.

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#12

That's correct, and you might want to connect a dropping resistor between pin 6 of the lower rectifier and C104A to drop the B+ to 210V. Probably somewhere between 47 and 100 ohms, 1 watt. If you do this you'll reduce the heat to almost zero and that's a good thing!
#13

Thanks RodB

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#14

Got it to work on AM had to repair the 1st AM IF transformer, now I found that the FM OSC trimmer (C400C) is flaky, just touching it, it will change. The tube that it is in is broke, don't know if it glass or plastic. Has anyone repaired one of these.    

Jim
Spring Lake MI
#15

I  am pretty sure it's glass. You might try some of the clay type epoxy. wrap it around  and stabilize it. Otherwise you need to replace it. It's a trimmer cap.

Make sure the epoxy does not have metal in it.

I would have it running to watch to see how much the epoxy affects the tuning.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
trying to identify this wire type
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM
trying to identify this wire type
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
Hi everyone,  Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Here's one source for your wire of many. Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM
trying to identify this wire type
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM
trying to identify this wire type
The red wire is rubber covered wire. The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM
trying to identify this wire type
Greetings Phorum members, Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached.  I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind. Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2466 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 2464 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>