[Eliot Ness]

Bob, I would take one of the following approaches:

1. (No expense barred) Take the switch apart and see if it is repairable, and if not see if Mark Oppat can repair or replace it. Then return the circuit to how it is supposed to be.

2. (Economy approach) If the switch is not repairable I'd still return the circuit to how it is supposed to be and then connect C27 to one of the two points where the radio sounds best to your ears. You can even experiment with different values for C27 and even R12 to get the tone tone you think sounds best. A two position tone control isn't exactly a Hi-Fi option anyway, although it's nice to have the Music/Voice selection.

[morzh]

Bob

I do not think the Blue and Green wires should ever be connected.

And, what John said.

[klondike98]

Thanks guys!  I pulled out the offending switch, opened it up, sprayed it with contact cleaner and reassembled it.  Seemed to be working ok now so I will put the circuit wiring and components back to original. The surgery continues.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/odjt42afotivad....jpg?raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/21niul98ra5jgw....jpg?raw=1]

[klondike98]

OK this set is working, including the "tone" control.  I have yet to align it, the volume control is scratchy and needs work and there is some general static but it is picking up our local am station and our weather and tide broadcast. 

The bias cell was replaced with a C battery (mainly because I had a C battery holder in my drawer of miscellaneous stuff).  There was a nice place on the chassis to mount it without drilling new holes.  I'll do the aligning and some more cleaning on the chassis and knobs etc.  The metal springs in the knobs were rusty and it was incredibly difficult to get the knobs off in the first place.  It took a lot of WD-40 and patience.  After that, its time to start working on the table/cabinet. 

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7rh7y6cwha8zyy....jpg?raw=1]

[RodB]

You might be sorry you put in a Duracell. I volunteer for a monthly county fix-it clinic and every battery powered device that is opened with a corroded battery compartment has Duracell batteries leaking acid. There's more than one reason the bunny beats her drum.

[morzh]

Bob

I would advise moving the battery outside.
This is not your 10-year coin battery, and it might leak, so for ease of replacement you might want it outside.
And, if you need 1.5V battery, LR44 in a proper holder is exactly that.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/8...gKM0_D_BwE

[Eliot Ness]

+1 on ditching the Duracell, they've ruined more than one of my devices before I got rid of them all.

[klondike98]

Thanks for the battery advice! I will switch it out.

[klondike98]

The cabinet work on this set has begun.  Recall that the door to the cabinet had a nasty break where the hinge is located.  Some discussion in the “Now that the weather is changing” thread pointed to replacing the door rather than trying to fix it...so a new door is the approach I’m taking.  The cabinet is being partially disassembled.  Unfortunately the top is glued to the sides and it covers some of the screws to the hinges making it impossible to remove them without taking the top off.  I’m hoping to avoid that although it could be done with some patient application of heat and gentle prying with putty knives. 

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9j21i88s0ql4w1....jpg?raw=1]

I did need to retain the trim piece from the original door and it came off with some of that heating and putty knife work.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x9jrv63azoqoyz....jpg?raw=1]

One of the screw holes for the hinge was in very bad shape and needed to be drilled out and a plug put in. The plug is glued in, chiseled and sanded flat and a new hole drilled.  After a little more sanding the wood will be stained and toned later to match the cabinet.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jq4vxqs9javo2z....jpg?raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nbuoda5v92k45o....jpg?raw=1]

More later...

[klondike98]

The new door panel was cut and mahogany veneer applied to both sides.  The hinge brackets were installed on the edges and after a fair amount of adjusting, it seems to fit and swing up and down nicely.  I still have to glue on the trim, install a latch thingy (there is a spring loaded ball in the cabinet that fits into a metal disc on the top edge of the door), add the rest of the pulls and install the hinged arm that keeps the door from going too far down. 
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tp1qk6gwnrctgt....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kpy9ycouso41ci....jpg?raw=1]

I have to do some more experimenting with stains but I have gotten the raw veneer color much closer to the rest of the cabinet with some gel mahogany stainon a test strip of the veneer.  I stripped the top of the cabinet to get a better feel for where I need to be.  Toner will also help even colors out.  Once stripped the top looks pretty good. 

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/i0y3xynkc21j75....jpg?raw=1]

[klondike98]

I've made a little more progress on this Stromberg-Carlson.  While stripping the rest of the cabinet the brass feet got a polish and then some brass lacquer to keep them shiny.  Here they are about half way through the process.  They all got a final polish just before the lacquer went on.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikz0f2oifsqswk....jpg?raw=1]

The brads that were originally used to keep the brass feet on the legs were steel and a bit rusty so I made some new ones out of brass brads that were a bit too long.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ht1l944u0ddgkl....jpg?raw=1]

The trim piece has been glued onto the new front panel door and the entire door panel stained to get it to be very close to the rest of the cabinet.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/22cwgugboq2j7b....jpg?raw=1]

Still have the legs and drop leaf sides to strip and then I'll tone it lightly, add the decals and clear lacquer it.  That may have to wait for better weather.  I also need to craft a new bezel.  The original was crumbling away and warped.  I will have to make a wooden one I think.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1qivk5m3yvusxd....jpg?raw=1]

[Brad Winder]

Looks great Bob!

Yeah, those tenite bezels have become a real pain. I thought that they might "stabilize" after a few decades...no dice. They just seem to get worse and worse as the years go by.

If someone has a good one (if there are any left) it would be good to make a mold before it's too late. Or take a scan of one, to do 3-D printing...

[Eliot Ness]

Looking good Bob 

Yes, wood is probably the easiest option to making a new bezel.  With an assortment of Dremel bits and precision knife blades you might get one that is pretty accurate.

https://www.harborfreight.com/56-piece-p...coQAvD_BwE

[Paul Philco322]

3 D printing is amazing, I saw some pretty complex, seemed to me pieces made at a store up here during a demo, those brass feet, Ma had a drum table, leather inlay top with that type of base, real neat.

Looking good Bob.

Paul

[klondike98]

Yes our dining room table has feet very similar to this. I've played with CAD and tried to sort out how to design the bezel but I think I'll go with wood.