Safety Caps -- Please Edumicate Me!
Posts: 2
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
City: Louisville
State, Province, Country: Kentucky
OK, this safety cap thing.... I want my sets to be safe if something fails. Please forgive me if this has been answered 100 times before. I didn't see any references to it.
How do I know if I need a safety cap as a replacement when looking at the schematic?
I have a Philco Jr. 81 and I believe the 0.015uf dual bakelite block needs them from what I read in a thread on Antique Radio site.
But I'd like to know with confidence when I need to apply them, for future restorations.
Thanks in advance.
Posts: 1,824
Threads: 114
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Sneedville, TN
The place where one uses safety condensers is at the line power input to the piece of equipment to filter any RF from the line. Here is a link to a good explanation of what safety condensers are, and how they are used:
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technic...apacitors/
Here is a section of the schematic diagram of a Philco 38-10.
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/093edcdf2879...8eb4cb.jpg]
Notice the part numbered 47. That is one of the bakelite blocks commonly used in Philco radios to hold condensers and other parts of the circuit. Here you see the two condensers used to filter RF from the line. These are the condensers usually replaced with safety condensers. Since they go between each side of line to the chassis ground, one would use type Y safety condensers in this application, since, should they ever fail, they are designed to fail OPEN, and so, while no longer filtering out RF noise on the line, won't cause a shock hazard by shorting the line to the chassis.
To replace these condensers one needs to remove the bakelite block from the radio, then put it on a little tray to catch the molten tar, and heat it on the oven to about 250 F so that the tar inside it melts. You can then pull out the old paper condensers inside it, and replace them with the modern safety condensers.
(This post was last modified: 09-07-2021, 03:47 PM by mikethedruid.)
Posts: 2
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
City: Louisville
State, Province, Country: Kentucky
Thanks, Mike. In the future, I'll look for situations where a short would cause a direct short across the AC line. This is true of the dual 0.015uf bakelite block in my Model 81. I think I understand now.
Posts: 5,088
Threads: 270
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Good article Mike..thanks for posting that.
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
The purpose of the line caps is often misunderstood. Their main function is to provide an RF ground path for the antenna circuit. If you look at the schematic, you see the antenna coil is connected to chassis ground, in turn, the chassis is connected to the line through the line caps providing this ground path.. Try this experiment, remove the screw that fastens the line cap block to the chassis, lift the block so it no longer has a ground connection. turn the radio on. You won't notice much if any reduction in electrical noise/interference. What you find is a great reduction of sensitivity though. A few years ago, I restored a Philco 20. The Philco 20 originally had no line caps but, required a ground connection to the chassis for good performance. I decided to add line caps. After the caps were added, the radio worked equally well with or without the ground
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 1,824
Threads: 114
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Sneedville, TN
Unless someone is running a brush type AC-DC appliance, like an old vacuum cleaner, in your house, you will probably not be bothered by RF on the power lines these days, But when these radios were made it was a more common problem. You are right that the caps do also allow RF to go the other way, and can serve as a make shift ground; however, these radios were designed to have a proper ground and antenna. That is why they have a ground terminal. The main purpose at the time of their manufacture was to filter interference from the line.
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
I have found what Steve said to be the greatest benefit today. Most of the noise around here is RF.
Don't make them too large (~.01). I dislike that tingle.
Sal has a good deal on a package of them (the little blue disc caps).
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 15,819
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
The purpose of the caps notwithstanding:
You need X-rated caps anywhere where a cap goes between L and N.
You need a Y-rated cap anywhere where a cap goes between L to PE (chassis) or N to PE.
Speaking of a misunderstood caps between Chassis and L/N, I had a Philco 16B, I think it was, where I accidentally isolated the screw holding the GND lug of a backelite block to the chassis. I forgot how I made it. But I did.
I spent two days trying to understand why I had such a pronounced hum.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 105
Threads: 17
Joined: Mar 2018
City: angeles city,philippines
or you can use X/Y rated caps
Posts: 1,600
Threads: 101
Joined: May 2008
City: Omak
State, Province, Country: WA
Hello Guys,
Yep the good old Safety capacitor and I most of the time use the ones that falcon talks about the X/Y rated caps .
Sincerely Richard
Posts: 813
Threads: 49
Joined: Feb 2013
City: Shenandoah,
State, Province, Country: Pennsylvania
Just to add a little confusion here. If ‘safety’ caps are designed to fail open, why does it matter if you use X, Y, or X/Y types in any application? Shouldn’t they work safely in any position, across the line or from both lines to chassis?
Ron
Bendix 0626. RCA 8BX5. RCA T64
Philco 41-250. Philco49-500
GE 201. Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42 Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116. Philco 70
AK 35 Philco 46-350
Philco 620B. Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B. Majestic 50
Philco 52-944. AK 84
(This post was last modified: 09-12-2021, 12:41 PM by 462ron.)
Posts: 1,824
Threads: 114
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Sneedville, TN
462ron, please go back and read the information in the link I posted earlier again : https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technic...apacitors/ . There you will see that there is a difference between type X and type Y safety condensers. Type X are designed to go directly between the two sides of LINE, that is between hot (black) and neutral (white). They are designed to fail SHORTED, so that when they fail they will blow the line's fuse, and so cut power to the appliance. Type Y are designed to fail OPEN. They are designed to be used between line and chassis, or ground. When they fail, they fail OPEN, and so do not short line voltage to the chassis. This is why in those applications like in the Philco bakelite blocks used for filtering power input, one should use type Y.
(This post was last modified: 09-12-2021, 06:40 PM by mikethedruid.)
Posts: 813
Threads: 49
Joined: Feb 2013
City: Shenandoah,
State, Province, Country: Pennsylvania
Learn something new everyday! From previous articles I’ve read on the subject, I never saw where the X type safety caps were designed to fail in the short mode. I’ve only ever read that generally safety caps fail in the open mode. This is a new one on me but it makes sense. Thanks for the update Mike!
Ron
Bendix 0626. RCA 8BX5. RCA T64
Philco 41-250. Philco49-500
GE 201. Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42 Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116. Philco 70
AK 35 Philco 46-350
Philco 620B. Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B. Majestic 50
Philco 52-944. AK 84
(This post was last modified: 09-12-2021, 03:56 PM by 462ron.)
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
Makes me wonder about those caps that sellers call X2, Y2 or some variation of X and Y with 1s and 2s. What happens with those?
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 1,824
Threads: 114
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Sneedville, TN
I found another article which has more information about safety caps which have the X1Y2 rating and such...
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu...or-exactly
Look under the "Answers" section. It has some deeper explanations. Basically, an X1Y2 condenser is designed to fail OPEN, but meets the continuous, surge, and pulse voltage ratings of both X1 and Y2 standards.
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
Hi Cap'n Clock,
Unfortunately, I do not have this radio. This is a shame because this should be a good performer. 2A5...MrFixr55 — 06:48 AM |
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
|
I think it would come under either American Bosch or United American Bosch. American Bosch made sets for the American We...Arran — 05:53 AM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM |
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
|
Hi everyone,
Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Here's one source for your wire of many.
Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary
P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
The red wire is rubber covered wire.
The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|
|