[wabr101]

I've seen a few other posts and information on Google about the large filter can on the model 20. Basically heat it and the guts fall out, but I was wondering, how is the bottom attached. Is the bottom pressed on? Will it pull off and then show the wires? Another post had the bottom off and the wires in the  can cut so the person did not have to unsolder the wires underneath the chassis.
So how exactly then can I leave the chassis wiring untouched? If I remove the 1/4" nutdriver screws then the whole can moves. I want to be able to remove the top and then cut the wires and then restuff? Press fit? Riveted?
Thanks in advance.

[ducretet]

Hello,
I recollect that I had to desolder under the chassis. I tried to lift it, but the cables weren't enough. This block of capacitors has this gap and if the wires are not long enough to cut, you can damage the block. I would try.
It depends on the block models. I was able to do this job with the Philco 86 and 95 models. With the 511 model, I had to desolder under the chassis.
Another thing: These blocks carry capacitors with a maximum capacity of 5 uf. I put them "NON-ELECTROLYTIC".
To remove the tar: Boil the block for approximately 15 minutes. They leave without any problem.
Luck !!!

[wabr101]

So I should boil the block..maybe on chassis..ie. Have the block in hot water and see if it lifts off the base?
I know that some remove the block and some leave the thing soldered in.
I dont want to disturb the wiring if I dont have to but also don't want to damage the block.

[GarySP]

I rebuilt a model 20 about 10 years ago. In my instance the can, when unbolted, had enough slack to pull it far enough away to unsolder the wiring inside the can. I propped my cap block over a large metal coffee can then put it about 18 inches in front of my garage torpedo heater. The guts fell out in one piece after about 5 minutes. A heat gun can also be used, but the heater is quicker. Take care, and BE HEALTHY! Gary

P.S. I re-built the can to original specs as close as possible using film caps rated 630 volt.

[rfeenstra]

As I recall, it is just press fit.  It's been a while but I believe the can with the mounting brackets will slip off the metal ring that is riveted to the terminal strip.

   

[morzh]

You simply remove the 2 screws, pull up the can, and cut the wires. Then clean the base, and hen clean the can.

Or cut the wires before removing the screws and then pull up the can after unscrewing them.

[rfeenstra]

Mike, I think he is talking about the wires connected to the caps inside the can. I believe he does not want to disconnect the original wires that are under the chassis. It is only 6 connections and it is much easier to handle with the can off the radio. My 20 is actually sitting on the bench as I was working on increasing the sensitivity on the low end of the dial. so for grins and giggles, I removed the 4 screws and lifted the can from the base. It is just press fit. The original caps are surrounded by fish paper so the can comes off quite easily with a bunch of heat to soften the tar that might be holding the fish paper to the can. It should be doable without disconnecting the wires connected to the terminals.

[morzh]

>>>Mike, I think he is talking about the wires connected to the caps inside the can.


Me too.

You do NOT cut the outside wires.
You take that same drill tool and cut the wires coming to the lugs from the inside.

Or you lift the can and cut the wire inside as they straighten

I never cut the outside wires, they stay put with the original soldering.
See my 20 restoration from this spring.


https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=22426

[rfeenstra]

[radiorich]

Hello morzh,
Smart thinking when I start my Philco 20 far as my Philco's go I hope this winter I can work on my Philco Bullet radio from 1938

Sincerely Richard