Hello and thanks to all of yall that helped me with my 42-123. I am now going to start on the 86 that I have had for years but not the knowledge to tackle it. I have watched Buzz1151's videos several times and find them informative. One thing still confuses me is what caps to use for the filter condenser block and the filament by-pass can. From what I have read on the phorum, not electrolytics, but film. I would appreciate advice from you experts on part numbers on what yall feel is best before I order anything. I did order a P-T156 audio interstage transformer which I believe will work for the push-pull input transformer, hopefully.
I will appreciate any and all help and guidance.
Thanks,
George
>what caps to use for the filter condenser block
Film caps. Electrolytic caps will overheat and short do to the ripple current at the input cap.
>and the filament by-pass can
The filaments are power by an AC voltage. AC volt is fine on film caps but Not on electrolytic caps. They are polarized and have + and - . AC is constantly switching back and forth polarity wise 60 times a second. E caps don't like it one little bit and they short. Gotta go with film caps.
>P-T156 audio interstage transformer which I believe will work for the push-pull
Have use them for single plate to single grid and single plate to push pull grids. Works fine in both applications. The only thing is that you have to be mindful of not to exceed the primary's 10ma current rating.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Hello George,
Welcome aboard and as Terry Said Film Capacitors are what you want to use !
Good Luck and I will keep a eye out for your posts.
Sincerely Richard
2.2 and 4.7@630v are ok.
The original 4mfd value is somewhat critical in that if you increase the value a lot it will raise the output voltage of the power supply. At .7 mfd should amount to much. If you put 10 or 20 mfd instead of 250v output you'd be at like 375v and your set would hating you.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 11-23-2021, 04:22 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Thanks Terry andd Richard.
I'll get them on order. I will try to post a few pics of this as it is now, not near the shape that Buzz'z is, but I will give it a try.
A little tip. If the dial cord is entacked lub the bushings on the tuning cap so there is the least amount of stress on the cord. It's a pain to restring. Looks like you got a little rodent damage... Good thing It's got a steel cover over the bottom of the chassis.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
> Good thing It's got a steel cover over the bottom of the chassis.
That doesn't mean anything. I have a Philco 65 which had mouse damage under the chassis - inside that steel cover. If a mouse wants to get into something, and if there is any way it will fit through the smallest hole, it will do so.
Hello Mike ,
my Zenith is a model 715 Tombstone anyway nest was not as bad as that but do have rust to deal with .
Just glad My Zenith model 908 chassis did not have a nests or real damage .
I was looking at the Zenith 715 it costed $49.95 in 1933 and using the inflation calculator that is a whopping $1062.74 in 2021 !!
Sincerely Richard
(This post was last modified: 11-23-2021, 08:17 PM by radiorich.)
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
