Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

37-630 sub-chassis removal...?
#1

Hi all- just joined, looking forward to the sharing of enthusiasm and knowledge here! I'm fairly new to this whole thing, having had zero interest in electricity/electronics for 68 years and then I saw "Electronics for Dummies" in our library and now I'm all-in, trying to learn what I can from books, forums, FB groups, and finding and restoring old radios. I have about 1/2-dozen restos under my belt, but recently picked up a project that's quite a bit more complex: I need to remove the sub-chassis in this 37-630 console so I can get access to component replacements, and to replace the rotten rubber grommets holding the tuning condenser in place. I'm very reluctant to just start disconnecting wires and un-bolting things with zero prior experience in this kind of electro-surgery; can anyone here point me to a step-by-step tutorial, or any other reassuring process that I can slowly follow?
#2

Welcome Oldcoot! Start by getting a very clear schematic, and thoroughly read it until you have a working idea of the project at hand. Second, take numerous photos of the chassis, paying attention to wiring paths for re-installation. Third, mark everything when possible, and be ready to replace a lot of wire with decayed insulation. Best of luck! Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary

"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
#3

This web page helped me when I worked on a 37-630 table radio. It’s not a step by step but it has some good info.

 http://johnjeanantiqueradio.com/philco.htm
#4

Thank you, Tucker- that does indeed help! Hard to believe no wires need de-soldering/cutting! Guess we'll see about that.
#5

Thanks Gary, will do. I also stumbled upon a thread/blog by Ron Ramirez which is exactly the kind of tutorial I was hoping existed somewhere on the Web. Getting grommets that I hope are right from RenovatedRadios, so I'll methodically forge ahead on this advanced-level (for me) deconstruction.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Hippo 46-420 Schematic doesn't match parts list.
Here you have the part in the sch with values. I am not sure what else is needed.morzh — 02:56 PM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Ron Here are the two of my jigs side by side. They have been with me about the same time (a couple of month differenc...morzh — 02:05 PM
Kurt P
Terry, gotcha, thanks for the clarification.  That’s probably why the speaker seems shorted.  Assuming the OT/FC/speaker...Kurt P — 10:59 AM
Radiola 18 Amplifier & PS
I have the 2.25V and 2.5V information confused, and must look more carefully at the schematic and Hammond transformer in...TN Allen — 10:24 AM
Radiola 18 Amplifier & PS
Thank you for the information, it all helps, although understanding some of it takes time. One reason for doing the PS a...TN Allen — 09:42 AM
462ron
Hi Mike, the radio is coming along nicely but wow, you must have some serious moisture in your shop judging by the amoun...462ron — 06:29 AM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Have rebuilt the can. The can had 4 caps in it, 2x16uF, 10uF and 8uF. I used a 15uF as the first cap, 22uF and 10uF ...morzh — 09:38 PM
Philco 89B code 123 newbie
The flat copper wires are from the hum bucking coil. All of the other resistances seem to be OK.Radioroslyn — 04:15 PM
Help with weston 669
I need help with my 669 meter. I recapped it becausing it was pegging the meter out. Now the neon light comes on (not su...daveone23 — 02:42 PM
Philco 89B code 123 newbie
I may be incorrect but you should measure around few ohms for the voice coil. In addition you may have a hum bucking coi...RodB — 02:29 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3493 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 3491 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>