Philco 44B Cabinet Finish
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Currently working on a 44B. The cabinet has an "issue". I attached a photo of part of the cabinet. I don't want to get into the re-finishing business and I'm hoping there is a relatively simple solution to make this look presentable, as I don't want to re-finish the cabinet if that is possible.
I used Howard Restor-a-Finish, but that wasn't going to solve the issue. I haven't done any serious cabinet restoration and don't have any of the stuff I see some talk about.
I have a few other cathedrals and tombstones that have the similar issue.
Is there a good YouTube showing how to remedy this type of problem?
Thanks!
Thanks
John N3MUN
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You are going to get a lot of opinions, but i will tell you what i have done when i dont want to get too involved.
Get some acetone and lacquer thinner. Mix 50/50 and strip the whole set down. Just keep wiping with the wet rags, That bad part you have will likely disappear and you can stop at any point then, just try to make the whole set look even. buy wiping with the 50/50 mix, discarding rags as they build up with old lacquer.
It will all look immediately better. Then i usually stain with some golden oak to give it some brightness, but a darker stain or none at all , its up to you. You'll see what the finish will look like when you wet it with the thinner.
Then go buy a can or 2 of gloss lacquer and put on some even coats to the shine/build you like.
An hour? Sure longer as the lacquer dries.
Have fun
Bill
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Thanks Bill!
I'll need to wait for some warm weather. Don't want all that acetone in my garage! Should I do the entire cabinet? The front looks good, but I'm sure the color of the newly stripped top/sides won't look good compared to the darker front. I may have answered my own question, if I spray lacquer the top/siides, it certainly won't look like the front. I would think if it was a Tombstone, the entire cabinet would need stripped.
I was afraid that there was really no good way to restore the finish without some major re-work.
Thanks
John N3MUN
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
It looks like the finish is pretty tired, and it looks like something was spilled over it to cause that finish loss. I think that you, or someone else, will need to strip the old finish off and start fresh as it originally had a tinted finish which is near impossible to do spot repairs with. The veneer looks like it may be poplar, or some other cheaper white wood, not walnut, so Philco used a medium walnut tinted lacquer to make it look like walnut, you could strip it and do what they did, or try dying it, but lacquer is probably easier.
Regards
Arran
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After stripping with solvent, there may be filler loss. Stripping in the flat area of which the lacquer has failed can be done with a professional cabinet scraper. If you choose so understand the scraper will need correct re-sharpening and used properly to prevent accidental gouging, but the filler will remain. Some stripper used sparingly can blend the color on the wood. Then look to do a sealer coat this is usually thinned shellac, follow with transparent toned lacquer, build to achieve the desired color. When dry, safely mask off the edges and use opaque dark brown or Vandyke toner. That, conceals the end grain.
There is not a lot of work, but steps taken in the correct order and the correct product used. One or two top coats of gloss lacquer to complete the job. Touch-up polishing should be done some two weeks to allow the lacquer to fully hardened.
As far as chemical stripping using wood shaving pet bedding is great to cleanup all surfaces from any kind of stripper, simply scrub it in, it can't scratch and absorbs the solvents. Sweep into loose pile and store outdoors for a day or two then send to trash. Do not burn as spent stripper solvent can make hazardous smoke.
Do not do any solvent stripping indoors, out, and wind at your back... Always use solvent proof neoprene gloves and a solvent rated respirator.
Repeated solvent expose effect the body late in life, not nice...
GL
Chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
Posts: 41
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Joined: Mar 2023
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State, Province, Country: PA
Chas-
You make it sound easy, just not sure I have the space and desire to take on this new skill. I may need to look for a local "refinisher" that won't charge an arm and a leg to re-do a few cabinets for me. Plus, I would really hate to screw up the process and ruin what is currently salvageable.
Thanks
John N3MUN
Posts: 61
Threads: 11
Joined: Jul 2021
City: poulsbo
State, Province, Country: Washington
I did forget about that the filler may dissolve. Timbermate is cheap and works well. I think you will find a refinisher expensive and you can do a reasonably good job by yourself. Again you have choices...just the sides or the whole thing. When i did my first one it looked so good i did the whole cabinet. Each one will get better as you learn what you are doing. I have completed a cabinet, not liked it and stripped off all my work several times until i got the look i wanted, trying different techniques.
And a tombstone is relatively easy to start with... a floor model lots more work.
Bill
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