[mwiedmer]

Hello,

I am new to radio repair and maintenance. We are restoring a 1951 Chrysler New Yorker (6V, positive ground) and the original radio does not work at all. This vehicle sat for at least 3 decades, but in general is in good, unmolested condition. All the removable radio parts are labeled Philco. We have power to the two-part radio (now on my bench) but the vibrator does not hum. According to the Chrysler Service Manual, this indicates the vibrator is the next thing to check. The manual recommends flashing the vibrator by removing the 14-amp fuse and striking the contacts together. This did not remedy the problem. The manual is silent on what else to do.

So, what should my next steps be? The vibrator is a Philco 83-0035; the electrolytic condenser is a Philco 61-0086. A quick internet search failed to reveal original-style replacements. I would like to restore this radio to near-original working condition. Are there available replacements for the vibrator and condenser? Any general advice on how to safely revive a long-dormant radio?

Thank you very much; I look forward to any recommendations you can provide!

Mike

[GarySP]

Welcome to the Phorum, Mike! Plenty of pholks here to bounce questions off. Someone is sure to have suggestions. Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary

[mwiedmer]

Thank you, Gary. I have a lot to learn.

Mike

[David]

Info on a solid state vibrator hope this helps.  https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthrea...#pid189441

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

I'd recommend picking up a solid-state replacement vibrator.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/vi...bile-radio

Make sure you choose the one for positive ground

Sometimes you can get an original one unstuck by removing it from the chassis and rapping it against your workbench a few times (sounds crude but it sometimes loosens the frozen contacts... which are like a set of points inside the can, similar to what's on a distributor). Prying the crimped edge of the can off of the base to spray some contact cleaner on the points sometimes works too but it's a bit involved. Personally, I'd just pick up one of these SS units and see if you can get some life out of the radio to start.

[mwiedmer]

Thank you, David and Greg. I will first rap the vibrator, then, if no success, open the can and clean, then, if still no success, try the solid-state unit. Any thoughts regarding the condenser?

Mike

[Chas]

The bench power supply may not have the amps to start the vibrator. The wiring too/from must be at least #10 to the radio. Best to use a fully charged battery and the heavy wires suggested.

The buffer condenser must be replaced with a buffer rated condenser or a condenser with published dv/dt ratings. If changing to solid state the buffer value may have to be varied to prevent the SS vibe from burning out. An oscilloscope can determine the optimum values of buffer condenser. The main "B" filter condensers must also be replaced, leaking condensers will place a substantial load on the vibrator.

There is a circuit floating around for constructing a vibrator contact rejuvenator from a socket, two 120/60 watt lamps. The circuit exercises the vibrator via its contacts under a light bulb load. if either bulb does not light and vibrator does not hum it is bad.

GL

Chas

Vibrator tester.pdf Size: 75.72 KB  Downloads: 207

[mwiedmer]

Thank you, Chas. Rapping the vibrator did not yield success, so I opened the can and cleaned the contacts. I reassembled the radio components on the floor of the car and used the car battery and wiring along with a ground wire. Now the vibrator hums (quite loudly). I must replace at least one burned-out tube, but at least I now have noise, where I had none before.

As I am all new to this, where should I search for condensers? Are there ways of testing condensers?

Thanks.

[Arran]

Mike;
I would have a looks on what we call "the barking dog forum" or Antique radio forum, before you toss the original vibrator, there are a lot of different circuits for solid state substitutes, some are much better then others. It may also be possible to revive the original vibrator by dismantling it and polishing the contacts, which are often fouled by off gassing from the sponge rubber insulation inside, but have no other problems. Mechanical or solid state vibrator or not you will need to replace the 1500 volt hash capacitor or the vibrator could be damaged.
As for testing condensers, if they are obviously paper, inside a cardboard tube, if they are not bad now they soon will be. If they are ceramic disk condensers, or molded mica leave them alone. Electrolytic filter caps may work for testing, if they are not shorted, but should be replaced if the radio is to be put into service.
The radio in your New Yorker is probably similar to the one in my Imperial, where the tuner section is separated from the power supply and audio amp, which has the speaker mounted to it. The amp in mine has a pair of 6AQ5s so probably has a decent amount of audio output, as well as decent fidelity, I haven't got around to servicing it yet.
Regards
Arran

[mwiedmer]

Thank you, Arran. Yes, the tuner module is separate from the power supply/amp/speaker. There are two 6AQ5s, one of which is burned out. A replacement is on order. Do you have any advice on where to search for a 1500 V hash capacitor?

Mike

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Others may recommend different sources but for higher voltage and specific value capacitors my go-to vendor is
https://www.justradios.com/cart.html

Glad you got some buzzing out of the vibrator again! 

[mwiedmer]

Thank you for the tip, Greg. I appreciate your advice.

Mike

[Chas]

The buffer capacitor MUST be a buffer rated cap with a published rating Dv/Dt rating. Any other cap design will be short lived as the high frequency spikes will breakup a common metalized capacitor and drop its capacitance to zero irregardless of the voltage rating.

Generally, buffer caps either have foil or a very thick metalized design.

These can be found at professional distributors such as Newark, Digi-key and Mouser.

[mwiedmer]

Thank you, Chas. I will start my search at these sources.

Mike

[fenbach]

mike,
the capacitor, 61-0086 is 3 electrolytics in one can. https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...ondensers/ . All of them should be replaced, but the radio will work with them in place. the one that must be replaced, or removed temporarily, is the buffer cap across the rectifier tube, 7Y4? the buffer cap is connected to 2 leads coming out of a transformer. it protects the vibrator but can be removed temporarily. any 1600 volt cap with the right capacitance [or close] will do.
in the end, you'll want a solid state vibrator. but better to use a mechanical vibrator while you are working on the radio. a short will fry most solid state vibrators. in particular, the one from tubesandmore. never mind that $42 makes me vibrate.
sounds like you have the original vibrator working, but you can check it with a 9 volt battery. touch the 2 contacts of the battery to the 2 fat pins on the vibrator. if it's working, you'll feel it buzz. I'll send you one if you like. For now, test the AC voltage across the buffer cap. If the vibrator is making contact, that voltage should be 300 volts AC or more.
you can check the caps with a multimeter that has a capacitance tester. but all the tubular ones and the cans should be replaced.
do you have a model no. for the radio? with that, you [and I] can find the schematic online. probably at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/303/T0000303.htm
bob