[bridkarl]

I should have been clearer - I drilled through the eyelets to get this material that was blocking them - They are still there firmly attached to the block. Everything is hooked up and it’s working well. I tried to make liberal use of heat shrink to protect everything. It seems quite stable and secure to me.

[bridkarl]

I’m down to figuring out fasteners - this radio is fastened with random collection of screws so
1) Proper size screw for fastening the repro faceplate from Renovated Radios - the pilot hole on the cabinet is .05 inches. That seems to be an 0-80 screw by my reference books.

It seems that a brass pan head wood screw was what was originally used. 
2) Same question for chassis connecting screws. It seems to use two different sized washers.

[MrFixr55]

Great idea putting the fuse in there Bridkarl! I would still have that console that Dad (really Mom and my sisters) made me toss after the transformer fire caused by a shorted 5Y3. I always install a fuse in a transformer powered radio (The 35Z5 / 35W4 is its own fuse in an AA5). I also disconnect the HV Secondary to the 80 / 5Y3 plates and put 1N4007s in series between the winding and the rectifier plates (Observe polarity). I can't remember where I got that from, maybe Phils Old Radios or Ron Ramirez. Protects the transformer in case of a plate to cathode short in the 80 or 5Y3. Not really necessary on tubes with sleeved cathodes like 5AR4, 5Z4, 84, 6X5, etc.

[bridkarl]

I get what you are saying. Given these are new caps I’m less concerned about that since the chances of a short on the B+ seem low.

I haven’t been doing that. It seems like if you put a fuse on the center tap that would do what you are talking about - right at the junction of 62 and 61. They sell these fuse holders with a pigtail on each end that seem to be ideal for that if you didn’t want to use a diode.

[MrFixr55]

I don't know if there was a cap short, I think that the heater on the 5Y3 just opened and had a cathode to plate short. I make this mod to all my older radios because the S and ST type 80 rectifiers have those thin triangular heaters. If the thick toaster element style of a 5Y3 can open up and hit the plate, then the older styles sure as #&!! can and trying to find a power transformer for something like an RCA R7A Suprette is no fun!
There was no hum prior to the fire, and this was in the early 70s so the radio was about 25-30 years old. I can't remember if the caps were replaced. I have 2 Zeniths, a 6G001 Universal and an 8G005 Transoceanic, both with the original filters and no hum. Same with a 1956 DuMont RA354. All have CD or Mallory multicap cans, and no hum. However, I do plan to recap both.

All 3 are battery - electric sets with 1.5V tubes. However, there is not one AA5 or transformer powered radio in my collection that has the original caps.

Some day I will publish the list of radios I have, with pix. Currently, there 80 radios in my collection, not counting the vintage HiFi, vintage Garrard turntables, 1970s Japanese HiFi (about another 20), Transistor radios (about 10), 1950s and 1960s hearing aids (about 6) and TVs (about 10). The count is heavy on 1920s 3 dial units, late 1920s, mid 1930s to WWII, Post war to 1980s, very light on 1930 -1935. IMHO, my most prized, due to historical importance, in alphabetical order are:
A-K 10C, (1923-1924), AK20 (1924), FADA 160 (1923) GE S-22A (RCA R7A, Ca 1931), Philco Model 20 (1930) RCA (GE) Radiola II (1922), RCA Radiola 16, 17 (1927), RCA Radiola 80 (1928), Westinghouse Aeriola Sr (Wooden face, 1921-1922), Westinghouse RC (1922). These radios were all repaired or restored by me. The Aeriola Sr, RC and the FADA 160 are all 100 years old or older. The AK-10 is 99-100 years old.

[bridkarl]

After lots of grief this is done except for putting in the call letter tabs. I have those. Thanks all - and now onto the next.

Before and after

[bridkarl]

After lots of grief this is done except for putting in the call letter tabs. I have those. Thanks all - and now onto the next.

Before and after

[Paul Philco322]

Very fine work, like the look. Paul

[bridkarl]

Repair summary on this - new caps throughout including the bakelight block with Y safety caps, resistors checked and replaced, extensive new wiring including for lights, fuse added, new knobs/knob felts and faceplate, new bulbs, case cleaned and polished, new grille cloth, replaced power cord, switches cleaned with de-oxit, added station tabs circa 1941 Indiana - being a Hoosier-American I had to do that. WSM had to be there for the Opry. 
Office Max printed out a whole set of tabs for $3 - don’t buy the $15 set you see online. 
Radio checks out fine on all bands although extensive local interference at top band is a problem. I think it pulls about .4 amp at 120 v.
 This is just planned to be my daily driver for AM radio while I work.  This is as good and safe as I can make it. I honestly can’t think of anything else I could do with this except a full alignment - maybe this winter after I fix my signal generator.

[462ron]

Congrats on a nice restoration. The 41-250 was my first ever Philco I did about 10 years ago after retiring. Love the set both for its looks and it is decent performer too!

Ron