[Guest]

I'm just beginning the restoration on this radio and in doing the initial visual inspection I found 2 cloth covered wires that need to be replaced due to fraying, there was a mouse nest in this one. There are only a few cloth covered wires in the whole set and I'm wondering if there is some special reason that this type of wire is used. The 2 wires that need replacing are in section 4 of the schematic, represented by the two squiggly lines, test point C, to a ground lug on the tuning condenser, and to the FM aerial coil L402. Can I use a plastic covered wire in its place?

[Terry Judkins]

Other than being 'original' I see no reason to stay with the cloth covered wire. However it may be cloth covered because it was stranded and flexible for the use.

[Guest]

Unfortunately I don't have any cloth covered wire, guess I should try and get some. These two wires come up through the chassis at the back, run across and down into the chassis again near the front, so they are visible.They are stranded as well. I'll hold off for now just in case I stumble across a couple of big spools of vintage cloth wire.

[Terry Burns]

Hi,
You can purchase cloth covered wire stranded or solid from
http://www.radiodaze.com/
You can get caps, tubes and just about anything else you need to restore your radio. Good folks too.

Hope this helps
Terry

[Chuck Schwark]

A lot more good supplier links on the RESOURCE LINKS page on my site as well.

[Guest]

Well, I finished the recap on the 47-1230, did the bakelite cap, the electrlytics and all the paper/wax ones. Put the chassis back in the cabinet to test, hoping for the best, but not much luck. No smoke, so I guess that's good ! But not much else. FM band gets one station all the way across the dial, only a couple of stations on BC and SW bands, this is with the internal cabinet antenna hooked up. I ran it for about 5 minutes and noticed the 6V6 tubes were VERY hot, even the bases, so I shut it off. I have the service manual from Chuck, thanks, and am going to pull the chassis out and start the troublshooting routine and checking test point voltages. I suspect the voltages are too high. Couple of questions before I start: Do I pull the tubes out for the testing of the chassis? Can resistors be tested while in the circuit or do I need to remove one end? Will it harm anything if I power on the chassis without the speaker attached? It looked like part of the circuitry runs through a choke or transformer which is part of the speaker. When resistors age or go bad does the resistance go higher or lower, or do they just open? Hope I haven't gone in over my head on this one, only my second recap job. My first one was a Telefunken table top console, Opus 7084W, and everything went guite well on that. I just bought an extra 47-1230 chassis on ebay so I'll have something to compare to and get the few parts off that I need.

I just answered one of my questions: The first line in the troublshooting section of the service manual says "CAUTION Do not power on the set without the speaker connected....."