Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Chassis bolts for '30s sets
#1

I was looking for something over in the McMaster Carr catalog and found these instead https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hex-he...eet-metal/ pn 93880A544. Look like they would be a good replacement for missing chassis to cabinet bolts for the pre '37 or so sets. I'm always either loosing them or getting sets that have missing ones or none at all. Haven't ordered yet as I just found them.

Actually I was looking for some hardware bits to put a 21, 70B, and a 90B back together. Some came a chassis w/o cabinets others needed a few things to tiddy it up or just have been around so long I've lost track of some of the bits...

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#2

Hello Terry,
those Bolts look great grainger and McMaster are great sources !

Sincerely Richard
#3

The other thing I came up short on was the speed nuts that hold the speaker in on the Baby Grand cabinets that the speaker screws in from the rear with wood screws. These do not screw into the wooden part of the cabinet so much but into speed nuts placed between the backside of the front arch and the front panel. On a couple of my sets they were missing as was the panel.

I tried the box store but all they had was little dinky ones. The hole was the right size but the overall size was dinky. MC came thru with the proper size on both accounts. The only down side is that they only are sold in parcels of 50. Each set use 3, so for $14 you'll get a lifetime supply.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/speed-...sh-nuts-6/
Part number 90528A113

Edit use 90528A112. The '113 are too large and won't tighten w/the #8 screws. The '112 are for #6 screws and work fine!

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#4

Radioroslyn Wrote:The only down side is that they only are sold in parcels of 50. Each set use 3, so for $14 you'll get a lifetime supply.

I have often bough more of a part from McMaster-Carr than needed because the minimum quantity price was reasonable and their quality of parts has always been excellent.

Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA
https://plymouthcolony.net/starcity/radios/
#5

The screws used the hold the front panel to backside of the coulomb/arch of the Combs style cabinet are #6 flat head wood screws 3/4" long.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

The order came in and all was good but the speed nuts for the speaker are not going to work. They are the proper size on the outside but the hole in the center is just a little too big. A number 8 wood screw won't tighten down, it slips. So I've gone to plan B placed another hardware order to full my empty draws and should be in tomorrow. Along with that some new speed nuts. We'll see how that goes.

The 'A113 nuts work fine with number 10 wood screws but I was afraid to use them. #10 is pretty big and I didn't want to damage the back of the front arch.
I'm uncertain as to how the sizing works between wood, machine, and self tapping screws. Does the thread pitch matter when using a speed nut? Or is the center of the screw thinner on the tapping and wood screws so they don't fit as tightly into the speed nut? Is a #8 all always a #8 in size? This nut and screw is making my head hurt!

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#7

When I want to use a #8 wood screw in an over-sized hole I fill the hole with some wood glue and a sliver from a piece of scrap. Now the screw fits tight and no one can see the patch.
#8

The 70/90 front panels have a 1 inch diameter counter bore for the speaker nuts. When making a reproduction cabinet, I make 7/8 inch counter bores for the new style nuts. When making a replacement front, I always ask the customer if they have their original speed nuts, so I know what size to counter bore. One thing I have done in the past, I have used a small dab of JB Quick (the fast setting JB Weld) to hold the nuts in place until the speaker has been mounted.

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#9

Terry, one more thought. Have tried placing the large nuts on an anvil and taping the tabs in the center down to close the hole some?

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#10

I've got some #6's coming so going to see how those work out.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#11

The #6's look and work just like the originals.

pn 90528A112

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#12

Terry
Those are close! Their washer/ shouldered but i guess they'd have to work. From what ive seen on for sale radios pictures its hard to tell if they are shoulder head or with a washer. eBay had some listed @ 24.95 a set of 3 with washers. Ill work on getting pictures of progress shrank as soon as I can get a few minutes. Had to order solder wick ,have it up north but none here! Otherwise moving along, chasis cleaning pretty much done( lightly) not disturbing an stampings,etc.
Hope your day is going great ?




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
From what I read Philco went to using brown rubber power cords in 1936, so cloth was used in the 1935 and earlier models...Arran — 11:25 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hi Bruce, I have not worked on an 84, but in general, power cords for almost any radio prior to 1938 was cloth covered...MrFixr55 — 08:34 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
OK, well, so after staring at the sch again, I realized the problem had to be the #12/12A padder. I put a scope on the o...morzh — 08:15 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hello Bruce, I mostly use brown far as my cloth powercords go ! Here is the plug that I have used bakelite Acorn style...radiorich — 08:05 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Looking for as correct as can find the right Ac plug an the correct colored cloth line. Ive seen many old photos but mos...Bruce — 04:13 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Rod Two Y-caps make sense if you use them from L/N to the chassis; this is only makes sense in the transformer radios...morzh — 10:11 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Mike, I'm curious about a specific use of he Y cap. Lately I've seen a single cap across the power transformer primary. ...RodB — 09:01 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
hello morzh , That sounds like a plan ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 07:45 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Richard, It helped some, but I still had the whining when engaging the rear power strip (I did not realize it was fro...morzh — 07:07 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Hello morzh, Yes , that dreaded hum in my room where i do alighment I have my cable modem and router plus desktop plus ...radiorich — 11:25 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4285 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 4284 Guest(s)
Avatar

>