[Kenradio]

Hi everyone, I just got a Philco 38-116 today and getting ready to start the restoration of the chassis and found 4 of the tube shield bases hacked up so someone could use metal tubes in it. I have spare bases from a scrap chassis and was wondering what size or type of rivets to use to fasten the replacement shield bases to the chassis-- I don't want to use screws & nuts if I can help it as it won't look original.  Thanks,  Ken

[Chas]

Try, to measure an existing rivet or drill another out carefully and measure the hole diameter and the required thickness the new rivet/socket is supposed to clinch.

The rivet is semi-hollow so clinch length is from under the bottom of the head to the end. The diameter is rather specific too. Then, search eBay for a vendor. they offer separate listings for each size. if the size is a bit long, plan on using plated washers, these help on wafer sockets to spread the forces of clinching.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet#Types

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332312242437

That ^ may not be your correct size, it is for my application.

For that size of rivet a setting tool is essential or the mushroom will not form (roll) correctly. I also found these tools online:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314860296137

That is the tool I purchased for the rivet I got.

The head does require a backup tool, a steel backup block, a brass or aluminum rod will work too. The surface of the backup tool/block must be smooth as any scores or imperfections will be telegraphed onto the head of the rivet, permanently.

If there is a lot of mass for backup it can be hand held, if not, a rod for example, will have to be clamped. Rather awkward for a chassis may need a helper to hold chassis steady. The clinching (setting) tool is not cheap, I paid $55 to set just four rivets but the work looks original. The tool "rests" in my special tool drawer

I did not want to try to set the rivet with a pointed punch or mash it with a hammer

If your not familiar with setting rivets, set some scrap up and practice. Splitting a wafer socket can happen if skill is not there.

I suppose, the setting process could be done in a hand arbor press or a larger (strong) drill press.

You will need a LARGER, ball-peen or smaller sledge with short handle to set the rivet, usually a couple of well placed whacks...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball-peen_hammer

Wear heavy gloves, so if you misfire, the damage is less... Ouch!

Please post results with pix for us all to see.

Best regards

Chas

[morzh]

Just use copper rivets. Don't use aluminum.

[Arran]

Another thing, if you want to replace the tube shield bases see if you can get some from a 1937 model as that will accommodate using types other then "G" style tubes in the future. The 1938 bases were cut up because they don't allow anything other then a "G" type tube to fit into the socket, so I suspect a lot of these were hacked up during the war years, or post war, or during Korea when there were tube shortages. I think the original rivets were more like copper or brass eyelets, and those are easier to put in.
Regards
Arran

[Kenradio]

Thanks everyone for the information on riveting the tube shield bases on my Philco 38-116 chassis----I'll start getting ready to order the rivets and setting tool shortly---I'm getting ready to start restoring the chassis this weekend --hopefully I can find a scrap 37-116,37-675 or 38-116 chassis on eBay as I need a volume control shaft as the original one is missing.  Ken

[Kenradio]

Hello everyone, got started with the restoration of my Philco 38-116. I got the entire top and sides all cleaned up and carefully removed the 4 mangled tube shield bases. I got a replacement dial & multicolored wire ordered from Radio Daze, all rubber parts ordered from Renovated Radios and all capacitors ordered from Just Radios and ordered the rivets, setting tool and missing tubes from our favorite auction site. All coils & transformers check good. To replace the long missing volume shaft I'm going to take 2 shafts from other scrap Philco chassis I have and measure and cut to size and weld together and use it until I can find the correct one.   Ken