Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 645K chassis removal - need help
#1

Three of us at our museum attempted to remove the chassis for a 1936 645K art deco console, only to be stymied and mystified.

There are two rear under-chassis hold down screws, which we removed.  After pulling all the knobs, we attempted to pull the chassis
to the rear of the cabinet.  It wouldn't budge.

After carefully eyeballing the cabinet from the front, and also from the inside, none of us could see any screws that appeared to be holding the chassis in place.  Yet, further tugging with more force had no effect.

I guess it is possible that the chassis is just seized to the wood and we need to coax it harder.  But, if someone has a better suggestion based on experience, we'd sure appreciate your guidance.

Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.

ASHEVILLE RADIO MUSEUM
www.avlradiomuseum.org


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#2

Other than the screws from the bottom (typically 4) and the knobs there is nothing to hold it.
It could be seized. Try to gently rock it, see if you hear that crunching noise of crumbling gaskets. THose are made of some sort of rubber that in time hardens and glues to what it was touching. You probably just need to try to run a large flat scredriwer between the rear of the chassis and the shelf it is mount on, lever it up, and see if the chassis will start moving with that crunchy crackling noise.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

It looks like this chassis is similar to my 650X. There's the 2 Bolts at the back and the knobs to remove. There's two locator studs on each side of the chassis front. The bottom ones are bare and the top ones each have a large rubber shock grommets. In addition, the 2 chassis bolts went through large rubber grommets that can drop out the bottom of the cabinet cross member support. Try shifting the rear of the chassis back and forth.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>