Hello morzh,
Well that is a beautiful cabinet I have the Philco 20 Deluxe and I agree your chassis looks great .
my main issue with my set is the speaker grille was damaged .
Question on restuffing the big can on the 20. Mike, can you elaborate on the technique/process for getting the can off without unsoldering or removing any of the wiring underneath? Do you snip the wires coming into the holes before trying to lift off? I get heating the can and removing guts, etc - once off the unit. But I'm not picking up on how you got it off the chassis without unsoldering wires underneath. I need 20 can removal for dummies.
(not sure if it is proper phorum protocol to revive an old post to continue discussing, or start a new post, so my apologies if I did it wrong).
George - Berthoud, Colorado. Learned tube receiver repair and troubleshooting in the Navy way back when, came back around to it as an old guy. Re-learning all I can. Doing my part to restore a few of these old gems.
(This post was last modified: 04-19-2024, 12:46 PM by SRv2.)
So when I did mine, I put the can in the freezer overnight and then the next day took it out and smashed it carefully on its side on the garage floor until the tar potting material broke apart. Dug it out then insulated the can with cardboard and stuck my new caps inside.
Philco's
86 Low Boy 71B 42-321T
90 High Boy 52B 46-1203
95 High Boy 118B 48-214
112X Console 60B 48-206
118X Console 84B 49-506
41-608P Console 610B 76 High Boy
41-265 Console 37-89B 370LZ
52GC 38-35B
20 Baby Grand 38-10T
70 Baby Grand 41-221CI
George - Berthoud, Colorado. Learned tube receiver repair and troubleshooting in the Navy way back when, came back around to it as an old guy. Re-learning all I can. Doing my part to restore a few of these old gems.
I snipped the wires that go through the eyelets, and pulled the can off, without having to disconnect the terminal panel from the rest of the chassis.
Then I used two heatguns, having positioned the can over some foil; I forgot what I used as props for it. Anything will do.
Then I used corkscrew, large flat screwdrivers and such to pry the innards out. At some point the outer part of the tar block was no longer pushed against the walls of the can, and it separated, and then I was able to pull it out.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Roger that, I’m on it. Here we go. Got my two heat guns ready and a back up torch. Good weekend project since we are expecting SNOW tomorrow. If I get it then maybe I’ll try and take apart the power switch that intermittently doesn’t give continuity. Thanks for the tips.
George - Berthoud, Colorado. Learned tube receiver repair and troubleshooting in the Navy way back when, came back around to it as an old guy. Re-learning all I can. Doing my part to restore a few of these old gems.
I know someone used the torch; I would stay away. Fire is hote, and can potentially discolor and burn the case; the can is very thin, and the tin plating (or whatever it is) can easily be burned off.
Plus the torch heats narrower spot, than a heatgun. I would stick to my heatguns.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Success! Can empty! Thanks to everyone for the tips and input!
George - Berthoud, Colorado. Learned tube receiver repair and troubleshooting in the Navy way back when, came back around to it as an old guy. Re-learning all I can. Doing my part to restore a few of these old gems.
(This post was last modified: 04-20-2024, 12:33 PM by SRv2.)
It seems that when you were prying out the tar, you levered the prying tool against the wall and the rim of it (there are dents there).
It does not have to happen. After you are done with most of the core, the sides are thin enough that if you run flat screwdriver between it and the wall, it will just separate without you having to push it against the wall.
This way you will keep it from denting.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Yeah good call Mike. I figured you or someone would notice that. I got a little too much in a hurry and should have let the heat keep working it a bit more. I have managed to carefully straighten both sides out best I can. Thanks for the feedback.
George - Berthoud, Colorado. Learned tube receiver repair and troubleshooting in the Navy way back when, came back around to it as an old guy. Re-learning all I can. Doing my part to restore a few of these old gems.
Good job overall.
The first can is the hardest. After that you know what behaves in what way.
The same type can is used in one of Philco 16 chassis.
And, if memory doesn't fail me, in the Philco 112.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 04-20-2024, 07:46 PM by morzh.)
George, Mike;
What I have done in the past with potted condenser cans, not Philco ones by the way, was to melt the tar out of the bottom, drill a hole in the center of one of the layers, drive a large screw into it, then put the can in an OLD toaster oven for maybe 20 minutes at 200 degrees Fahrenheit (or as close as you can get). After the can is hot you can then pull at the screw with a pair of pliers till the section it is driven into comes out, and the rest will follow. An alternative would be to place the can on top of a steel plate, on top of a hot plate.
Regards
Arran
I have only given up on one can. I think from the 86 radio.
It is the wider / lower type. The same was used in 111. That one came out easy.
But the one from the 86 I used the large (very large )screw bolt, freezing, boiling, heating...wouldn't budge.
It's been since Jan 2018.
It sits somewhere, and the radio uses uncovered original soldering panel.