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[attachment=30355][attachment=30355][attachment=30356][attachment=30357]
Hello Everyone,
I have a 1931 Philco 111 that I would like to restore to working order and I am seeking comments and recommendations about doing it. This forum publishes a very nice two page schematic that I have gone over. Would someone please explain the two part capacitor block described on the chart as "B filter condenser block 60 cycles" and "B filter condenser block 25 cycles". I take it that the big black box next to the power transformer is a series of large capacitors if I am correct. What is the procedure to replace these particular capacitors? An explanation and diagram would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Tony
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https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthrea...ilco%20111
This is my thread from 10 years ago on 111.
And this is Jerry Hawthorne's
https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthrea...Philco+111
The types of cap block refer to the versions for 110VAC 25Hz and 60Hz. 25Hz had larger values caps, as well as the radios (not sure about this one) themselves had heavier transformer.
You being in the US (Canada had 25Hz) yours is likely 60Hz. And even if yours is 25Hz, you could use 60Hz values, as we have 60Hz in our outlets.
The radio is not too complicated to restore. Mine had every transformer, other than the power one, open.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 06-13-2024, 08:55 AM by
morzh.)
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Welcome to the Phorum!
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Hi Tony and welcome to the fray,
A few things. The Phorum will only except attachments of a size certain and not larger. I suspect that's why yours didn't show up. Bob can help you w/that issue.
You didn't link a schematic to your post, please don't take this the wrong way I'm not scolding but this is a good one here:
https://philcoradio.com/library/images/schem/111.jpg It includes all of the parts values so there's no jockeying between parts list and diagram.
The caps inside the tin. On these early sets w/ the small capacitance value cap like 1-3mfd use mylar or film non polarize caps. If electrolytic caps are used after several months of usage I've had them short and take out the rectifier tube. They over heat and short were the film jobs run cool.
In terms of getting the old caps out. Unsolder the wires from the bottom and remove it from the chassis. Pop the bottom cover from the tin and cut the wires that are connected to the are encased in tar above. Clean it up and solder in new caps. Top section put in freezer over night. This will shrink the tar a little bit and if your really lucky all of the innards will fall out by dropping it straight down on a flat surface from about a foot or less. Plan B is use a long drywall screw into the center tar and a pair of vise gripe to pull it out.
Something you may want to grab if you don't have is some in the spares bin is magnet wire. 32, 34, 38G is good for coil winding. For shadow meters I like 40G but I don't think this set has one.
Amazon has cloth covered line cords w/a plug for less than you can buy it by the spool and cut your own. Spool is abt 1.15 a ' and the cord was 6.95. This was about a yr ago. Oh and the cord is 7'.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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Speaking of electrolytics overheating:
do not use general purpose ones, especially as the rectifier filter. Use those rated as low impedance or, better, high ripple current (often times that goes hand in hand).
Panasonic has some good ones. They are also cheaper than comparable film caps.
This said, if you have space, and are OK with higher price, sure, film caps have no limit on working hours (and working hours in datasheets are for the worst case; in reality, a good cap will last you 100 years).
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Thank you for the advice and infomation regarding the capacitor block on the Philco 111. The diagram showing the capacitor values for the block is a bit blurry and hard to read. Would someone please verify that the following values are correct when read from left to right:
5 , .5 , .015 , .5 , 1. , .15 , 2 , 2
https://philcoradio.com/library/images/schem/111.jpg
(This post was last modified: 06-14-2024, 05:52 PM by
Tonym4704.)
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There are three 0.5uF caps and none of 5uF caps.
You could simply look into the sch and count #49 caps.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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I see what you mean and located all the #49's to verify. I should be all set with the rebuilding of the box. Thank you.
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