Hello Howard,
I wanted to welcom you to the forum and you have come to the right place to get some help with you Tuning Issues !
We also have section on this site when you can post for items like that .
First we should see if it can be repaired .
Howard,
First thing you can do is to soak this unit in some lacquer thinner .
What happens is the old greese gums up the unit I took mine apart for my Philco radio .
First off, welcome to the Philco Phorum! Lots of Phine Phriendly Pholks Phull of Philco Phacts and Phun in a Phamily Phriendly atmosphere (See a pattern here?)
Do you have the model number of the radio or chassis? We have schematics for almost all Philco products from the beginning to the mid 1950s in the Philco Library. If you don't have the model number, please list all of the tubes in the set and if there is a "phono" input jack, and if so, is it 2 contacts or more than 2 contacts, not counting the power connections for the turntable. In addition, is this a US model or a Canada model? This one appears to be a moderate to high end model, as it appears to have the "Teledial" automatic tuning (but I am not sure), 2 6F6s in Push Pull with a 6F6 driver, suggesting a Class AB2 or Class B output stage, having 10 watts or higher output power and other amenities. From this info, we can help you find the model number and the schematic, speaker and output transformer requirements, picture of the cabinet, etc.
I generally clean up, fix, recap and rewire sets but there are Phorum Members that restore the chassis with the same detail that an automobile restorer restores a Duesenberg to concours quality, including complete teardown, washing the tuning capacitor in an ultrasonic cleaner, refinishing or even stripping and replating chassis, rewinding coils, etc. If there is rubber wire, then you will find that it has deteriorated. The wiring can be repaired by disconnecting one end and re-sleeving or by replacing the wire. Cloth covered or thermoplastic wire should be in good shape.
Tubes are much more common than you think and there are suppliers galore on eBay or suppliers trusted by those on the Phorum that are experts. Capacitors, resistors and wire are readily available. There are companies that restore and re-cone speakers. Channel dials and knobs are available from several companies that specialize in reproduction parts. The dial on your set is common, I believe.
Keep us informed, and do not hesitate to ask questions. This is a "Family Friendly" (or "Phamily Phriendly") site where we always support and never bully.
Again, welcome to the Phorum, keep posting and good luck with your project!
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Is this the same radio chassis that you list in your "New Member" post? If so, we need to combine to make one thread. In addition, this is likely not a 39-7 as the 39-7 is a 5 tube radio with a rather plain tuning cap.
The gear is likely not turned by the vernier shaft; it is turned by the coarse shaft and the vernier shaft turns the course shaft. Can the coarse shaft be turned?
Like Rich states, soak the part in lacquer thinner. Liquid Wrench, Sili-Kroil and PB Blaster are also good. Heat may also be needed ad all clips may need to be remove and the device completely disassembled. Do so in an old pot as the ball bearings will roll right into a parallel dimension that will open up for the part but not for you. If you have to hammer, don't hammer on the vernier shaft, hammer on the coarse shaft using sockets as arbors.
Hope this helps.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Hi fellas and thanks for the helpful replies. First, let me apologize for the title typo. It's a "37-9" and I edited the title so that it is correct now. As for the duplication with my new member post, I thought I was just introducing myself and giving some personal background and some idea as to why I was here -- I didn't mean for it to appear as a double post.
That's great info about which shaft turns the gear. While the vernier turns [with no visible/detectable effect] the course shaft around it is like the gear itself, completely frozen. My brother says that he thinks all the tuning mechanisms were working when he gave it to the UPS folks to pack and ship. It's clear that something hit the side of the box that the tuner was on because it broke the magnetic tuning handle. Perhaps it also jammed the vernier/course shafts. I'll try soaking it for a day or so in lacquer thinner, but it doesn't seem like it is a hardened grease issue, though I have been surprised many times over the years with how that can lock up turn tables. Certainly worth a try...
It would sure be nice to have a cross section of this so that I could better visualize how best to free it up or even take it further apart.
Btw, I have enough parts in that parallel dimension that, if I ever could access it, I could build several pretty impressive things -- like tractors, cars, radios and TVs, and dozens of little electronic devices that my wife or kids thought I should be able to repair.
(This post was last modified: Yesterday, 06:58 PM by HowardWoodard.)
Hello Howard Woodward, and welcome to the Phorum! Not to scare you, but you are opening a potential Pandora's Box. In looking at your photograph, the following jumped out at me...
1. This chassis must have been in a super popular smoking area! Lots of cleaning upcoming.
2. This appears to be a 37-11 chassis. The tube socket for the 6A8 tube was removed and capped with an electrical KO plug.
3. One of the gangs of the tuner has be disabled, and the trimmer removed.
4. Filter caps have been previously replaced. I would still replace them again.
5. Seriously frayed wiring (eg. 6N7 grid wire grounding to shield)
That's just an observation of the top of the chassis. Need to take some under-chassis photos to see what lurks within. Someone did a bunch of modifications previously. Enter at your own risk. Take care and BE HEALTHY! - Gary
"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
That cabinet is a 37-10X. I guessed at the chassis being a 37-11 based on the tube locations. The photograph in our
Philco Radio Gallery (bottom of our Home page) is a twin to your photograph. The chassis was 'compromised' through the years. Not uncommon during the WW2 years. "I can't afford anything new. Just find a way to make it work" was a common lament to sales persons or service techs. It is a 6F6 push-pull output, so it should sound good when restored. It's a far way from there now.
Incidentally, the 37-9 through 37-11 all had similar front layouts but, based on your photo and our Gallery I am reasonably certain you have a 37-10X and 37-11 chassis. Wouldn't be the first time inventory dictated 'cross-utilization' resulting in the occasional "PhrankenPhilco".
Service detail is available in the Philco Radio Library. https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...ams-vol-2/
Hope this helps. - Gary
"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
Thanks morzh. It sounds like something even I could do if I could find any remaining retaining clips. When looking at these pictures, can you tell me how to find and access the retaining pin?
(This post was last modified: Yesterday, 06:48 PM by HowardWoodard.)
@morzh: As you can see from the pics I included, there is no clip where the vernier shaft comes out of the brass coarse shaft.
I read through the thread you referenced and though the last couple of pictures showed this shaft, there was no discussion about taking it apart. I must have missed what you were referencing. Can you be more specific for this ol' country boy?
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