[Arran]

Bob;
I was thinking the same with that 150 ohm resistor, put a larger value replacement in it's place to compensate for a silicon diode, or pair of silicon diodes. I think that the forward drop is roughly .7 volts on a silicon diode, obviously more with two in series, I was told that the selenium ones had a 4 or 5 volt drop when they were new, not 75 years old, so adding extra resistance following the replacement rectifier is a good plan, even better when the resistor following it is a dodgy sand resistor. By the way sand resistors are wire wound resistors, but that sand coating didn't do very much to protect the wire, or the connections, from corrosion, and the one in my set is looking a little green on one end, even though it read 160 ohms when I tested it.
I misspoke about the paper caps, the small ones were not 200 vdc rated, they were 100 volt caps, I may have a go at restuffing but I don't think I have any .022 uf caps that are small enough to fit in the shells, which are maybe 3/16'' on the inside. I guess that Phillips decided to use 100 volt ones because of the low voltages involved, and because they were smaller to work with, likely cheaper as well. It's kind of a shame as the set is all original inside, right down to the tubes. Has anyone tried painting those yellow poly film caps? I was thinking of trying some cardboard straws for capacitor shells, if I could find some the right colour. They are no good as straws so maybe they should be put to more constructive use.
Regards
Arran

[radiorich]

Hello Bob,
What nice looking set it looks like a Emerson that I have you did great job with the two Electrolytic cans .

Sincerely Richard
P.S. Bob I sure miss those Mallory ones that were made they were thinner but I did buy some Illions Cap ones that seem to be very small compared to others .

[klondike98]

Thx Richard.
Arran, the 0.02 caps in mine are also 100v. As I mentioned the original paper tube is just a little smaller than the modern yellow caps. After warming the tube and pulling the guts out, a slit down the side of the tube with an exacto knife allows you to open it up just enough to slide the cap in. With the slit placed out of sight you can’t tell it’s been slit.

[klondike98]

I can't believe I missed this little critter when replacing the electrolytics. Wasn't much of him left, he crumbled when I removed him.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2vmm8o4lx...0x9b&raw=1]

I've gotten a couple more caps stuffed and have now started on what is likely the most difficult, C-5 and E-1. E-1 is a combination cap and choke that I have never seen before. I'm wondering if it's similar to those Philco caps that have the coil of wire wrapped around them although this one is fully connected into the circuit. Its simply listed as Choke and tubular capacitor (0.05uF, 200v). I won't know if I'll be able to reuse the choke portion until I get it out.

Question: Has anyone every replaced one of these? Is the choke a critical component or do folks just replace the 0.05uF portion?

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jtk0o26aw...rpkt&raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fmy6p71xj...g78z&raw=1]

[img][/img]

[RodB]

That's the Philco rf trap in a foreign radio. Resonant somewhere around the IF, it's a short to ground. You can just replace it with the cap or wind about 8 turns of insulated 20 AWG wire around the new cap, being sure to connect them in series.