Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 76 condensor block questions
#1

Hi to all,
Well, I've been working on my 76 and am at a point where I can no longer put of rebuilding the big condensor can! I've never done one of these before and would love any input any body can give! Any tips or tricks or is it just a messy job? My idea is to clean out just enough to make room for the new caps. Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
Kevin
#2

It's just a messy job. Once you get the bottom off put the rest it in an oven at 275 for 20min or so. This will soften the tar. Take a cork screw or Ihook or something you can grab the innards with. Pull it all out. Clean the rest of the tar out and your ready to rebuild.
Terry

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Just remember to put a piece of aluminum foil where the crap will drip, do it on a nice day with the windows open, and send your old lady away to shop whilst you do it.
#4

A method that I've used successfully is to turn the can upside down and slowly heat the outside areas with a small Propane Torch. Once softened up from the outside it will just slide out and plop on whatever you have underneath to catch it and the droppings. A heat gun might work OK for this too, but in either case be careful and don't do this around any flammables.

A safer way might be to buy a toaster oven from a thrift store or garage sale and use the basic method that Terry described above. The toaster oven will minimize the risk of domestic violence if your wife gets a whiff of melted tar coming from her oven Icon_wink

edit: just to be clear I'm referring to the large cans that are metal.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#5

Quote:A safer way might be to buy a toaster oven from a thrift store or garage sale and use the basic method that Terry described above. The toaster oven will minimize the risk of domestic violence if your wife gets a whiff of melted tar coming from her oven Icon_wink
Good point, Ness!
#6

I used my solder pen to disconnect the leads to my bakelite condensor and the thing was hot enough when after that, the tar plug and caps slid right out with a little pressure from a straightened out paperclip through the terminal mounting holes. I didn't have to use any other heat it at all.

Now, I had a lot of solder on those terminals...somebody who subscribed to the "when in doubt...more solder" theory had done some work on this radio. So, I probably spent more time and put more heat into that condensor block than most jobs require.

Dave
#7

Don't think that's going to work on the filter condenser bank.

Terry

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#8

The nastiest I ever had to do was remove a potted power transformer from a Fisher 70 amp. Yeah the ones with the EL37's.

There were shorted turns on the secondary of the HV winding and it ran really hot and would blow 3 amp fuses.

Anyway I brought it out to the yard, suspended it so the guts would fall out, and gave it a nice propate torch treatment. Took about 5 minutes, and the core and a bunch of tar fell out. Had another tranny that was just about right, and attached the original wires, melted the tar again, filled her up, and I don't remember which set I did it to, I have 4 of 'em.
#9

Hey guys,
Thanks for the posts Icon_thumbup I got the condensor block rebuilt, it was a messy job but doable. Not being married I didn't have to worry about using the oven Icon_wink Knowin me, I wouldn't have thought twice about using it anyway, which is probably why I'm still single Icon_lol
Kevin




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco Model 249 made in England
Gary - Thanks for responding!  I hadn't actually taken possession of it at the time of my post but since you said it was...fklown — 03:32 PM
Philco model 40-100
Marion; Replacing volume controls was something some service shops did in years gone by to make a little extra profit...Arran — 03:24 PM
Philco Model 249 made in England
Welcome to the Phorum, fklown!  That's one heck of a Philco 'yardstick' you've got there!  Could you possibly post a clo...GarySP — 03:19 PM
Philco model 40-100
Arran, Thank you so much for your assistance and the link to the fleabay listing! They say a picture is worth a thousan...mhamby — 01:43 PM
Philco Model 249 made in England
I wonder if anyone has any information or experience with this model.  My internet searches are coming up with nothing. ...fklown — 11:40 AM
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 836 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 834 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>