[SRv2]

Hey all,
What do you think will this process work to flatten out the dial? Worth a shot.  Heated for couple minutes until the dial was warm.  Used parchment paper to keep the dial from sticking to the glass.  I figured if nothing else, my old books all were put to use for a day or two. 
If anyone has a better technique, let me know.
George
   
           
           

[morzh]

Beware of big heatguns.

But yes, the general idea of warming and keeping flat, I think, is the right one.

[SRv2]

Thanks Mike.  I tried to apply heat gently until it seems like the dial was warm but not hot.  From there I left the work to Ghirardi, Marcus, and Levy.

[Arran]

Just remember that you may not be able to get it perfect, much better but not perfect, so if it has a little bit of warpage I would live with it, mounting it back on the chassis may take care of whatever is left.
By the way, I was partly wrong about the FADA 1000 verses the 1001, they do electrically use the same circuit but mechanically the model 1000 uses a 12Sk7 whereas the 1001 uses a 12BA6 as an RF amplifier tube.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

What I think could work is this:

You warm the plastic up (gently, of course).
Then warm up two glass panes. The bottom pane should be thick and rigid. Thinner ones can bend some.
Again, warm gently, should not warm so they melt plastic.

Then put the gently warmed plastic in between the two, and put something very heavy on top. Heavy to flatten the plastic but not to crack the glass. And something that is not conductive. Yeah, books.
This way the cooling will go gradually.

Let it cool to room temp. See if this is the kind of plastic that it works for.

Oh, and if you think that warmed paint can transfer from the plastic to glass when it is cooled and lifted off the glass, you could possibly use saran wrap, one unwrinkled layer, possibly at the bottom glass (then the plastic should go by the paint facing down).

[SRv2]

Thanks Mike and Arran,
She is between the glass panes right now, so we will see how it goes.  The dial pointer was rubbing so I am hoping to flatten it just enough to clear the pointer.  (don't tell my wife which pictures I took the glass panes from)
And yeah, the 1000 has the 12SK7, just testing tubes now with my old Hickok tester.

[Joe Rossi]

Good library! From the top I have books 1, 3, & 4. Joe