What do you know about a Philco steeple clock radio?
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
I just had someone bring me a Philco clock/radio in the shape of a traditional "pillar and scroll" clock case. The upper dial is a spin-start electric clock and the radio is incorporated inside the case. It looks mint...like it came off a shelf in the store yesterday. Am I correct in dating it to the 1930's due to the spin start movement?
Can we discuss value here in this forum? If not, can you email me at chris@clocksbychristopher.com ? I really like it, but they have a price in mind. Thanks, Chris.
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
Ok, I just found out it's most likely the model 80 Colonial, as it has only two knobs on the front of the case. The finials are present.
There are two issues I can see. First, there is a knob setup floating around inside the back of the case that looks like it was attached to the interior base at one time. Second, there is a loose soldered wire coming off one of the rectangular units (vibrator??); I have no radio terminology knowledge.
What is a non-working (assuming) model in cosmetically excellent condition worth? Thanks!
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Hi Chris,
The model 80 came out about 1932. It's also known as the Philco Jr. It was there entree level set (cheap) using 4 tubes in a non conventional superhetrodyne with a regenerative detector. Philco used this set up on a dozen or so sets up to 1937. The model 80 was first. Considering it's low tube count it is a pretty good performer. When servicing it they will need all the resistors and paper caps replaced. Another common issue is rotted windings on the oscillator and antenna coils
I'll take a guess and say if it's really clean maybe $100-150.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
What is the third knob on the back for? It has 2 on the front and I've seen the other versions have three on the front.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Third knob on the back?!?  :
Can you please post pictures of this set, front and back?
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
Hopefully these links will show the photos. The case was perfect the other day, but since I was in a hurry and left it on the stairs, I managed to kick it face down the stairs with some scratches  !!
Nope...see the next set.
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Ah, now we know...it is an 80 Colonial Clock. The chassis has been modified. It did not have that extra potentiometer when it left the factory.
What kind of tube is that (large tube to the left in the third picture)? The elements look too large to be a 42...
Sorry to hear you accidentally scratched it. It could have been worse...12 or so years ago, I was carrying a Philco 630B when I tripped over something. I tried harder to hold on to the radio than to break my fall, but ended up dropping it anyway. Luckily, the only thing that happened was the rear arch came loose; the rest of the cabinet was undamaged. And I was not hurt, either, so it turned out OK all around.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
What does the extra potentiometer do? Also, would you say the value is still in the $150.00 range?
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
clockman1954 Wrote:What does the extra potentiometer do? How should I know? It is a modification done by someone after it left the factory. You will have to trace out how it connects in the circuit to discover why it is there, because it should not be there.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
It's got the wrong rectifier tube, should have a #80 it looks to have a 5Z3. Will work but draws 1 amp more filament current than the 80. Should be changed back to an 80
Also looks like it's had some service work done to it as the red wire going to the 36 grid cap isn't original and is a fair amount of work to replace.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 20
Threads: 7
Joined: May 2011
OK, so would it be possible that someone didn't have the correct tube and installed the large 5Z3 with a potentiometer to regulate it? As you can tell, I have no electrical or tube radio knowledge, so I may be asking the equivalent of "the kneebone's connected to the...."! As you noted, the red wire may be new, but there is a second wire going to the top of that cap that is disconnected; should it be attached?
I'm not going to fire it up; I have a tube radio repairman nearby who has my Philo 48-1270 chassis now, so I'll wait for him.
I see there is an internal plug as well. Does that allow one to disconnect the radio and use the clock?
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
The internal plug question I can answer. This is sort of a "junction box" where the AC cord coming in from the wall outlet connects through this socket to the clock. It also has a socket which the short cord from the radio is plugged into. This AC supply is not switched; it is on all the time as long as the set is plugged in, so the clock can operate normally.
I doubt that potentiometer is there to regulate the 5Z3, but stranger things have been done to radios. Just exactly why this extra potentiometer is there, and what someone intended for it to do, can only be determined by someone familiar with vintage electronics, knowledgeable in reading schematics, and who knows what he/she is doing. No offense intended.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
|
Recent Posts
|
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Usually a wave trap is for keeping IF signals from entering the antenna and from leaving the antenna. You feed an IF sig...RodB — 09:30 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
|
I just peaked it for the best signal at 600.
NULL it for IF frequency, originally it would have been null for 500kh...Chas — 08:05 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Wavetrap no longer matters.morzh — 05:19 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Rod, I had checked out your suggestions but did not help. I did solder the ground rivets to the chassis as Chas suggeste...dconant — 04:52 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Yeah, I know, Mouser and Digikey don't have "big iron" components. For some reason Philco was messing with the...Radiodial — 04:25 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Yes, I just had to deal with that while repairing the 37-604 Philco. Exactly that value choke was gone. And the current ...morzh — 03:52 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Ah, now where to find one.
I've into this before on smaller sets, I now recall. Hammond makes one that is only rated...Radiodial — 03:27 PM |
|
Philco 38-7 Speaker
|
| Ask the admins to put them together.
As for the renaming, while inside the thread, you simply press "New reply&quo...morzh — 02:23 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
|
This is the parts catalog.
32-7528 choke is 65H, 10mA, 2,250 Ohm inductance.
Find a suitable one.morzh — 02:18 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| While troubleshooting the no bass amplification issue, I think I found the culprit. The choke #104 is reading 164K ohms....Radiodial — 01:42 PM |
|
Who's Online
|
| There are currently no members online. |
|
 
|
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
