[Chuck Schwark]

From the Service Tips page of my site, under Shadow Meter Rebuilding and info:

[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/smrepair04.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/images/oldmeter.gif]

[Glenn Roberts]

Thanks to you and Chuck for the pictures. As I thought I'm missing the bracket that actually holds the bulb in place. Looks like I'm going to replace/repair something to hold the bulb in place. Below are some photos of my 118h. If you need more just let me know. I'll post again once the radio is completed.

Note from site admin: Sorry, but the photos which were attached to this post are no longer available.

[Glenn Roberts]

Thanks Chuck, I looked briefly for info on your site, but I'm not far enough yet to get down with the serious work of rewinding the coil. A link to the info is:

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctip01.htm

I have 3 with shadowmeters so this info will definitely come in handy.

Thanks Again,
Glenn

[PhilcoMike]

Glenn,

Thanks much for the cabinet photos, gives me a goal to aim for.
BTW, mine still has the original grill cloth on the speaker if you need that info just let me know.

Mike

[joejoe]

Hi Glenn, I was wondering how your Philco 118H was coming along and looking for any help you can give me.

I just started with my 118H and just ordered a lot of parts. Like you I have a bad R60, open, and I was wondering how your replacement works. If it worked out for you I will also replace it with a 20 watt resistor.

I have to do a complete rewire of the chassis, as rodents lived there for many years. They ate through 70% of all the wire insulation and in some cases ate through the wires. I have one big problem, they even chewed through some of the windings on the wave trap. That will be hard to find or repair. The volume control is also bad, so I will be looking for a 350K pot with a tap. Any ideas where I could find any of these parts, or how I repair them. I am using a Philco service bulletin No. 194 and found a few problems with the schematic.

Any help from you or anyone else would be greatly appreciated.

[Glenn Roberts]

Hi Joejoe and welcome to the Phorum.
I replaced the bad resistor with a 25watt adjustable that I was able to land right on 6500 ohms. With that being said, work has been so incredibly busy for me I barely have time to check in my favorite Phorum,let alone pursue my hobby. The chassis is on my bench with 3 bakelites to rebuild, an shunt resistor to install and a shadowmeter to rewind.
Wow, rodents can really do some damage. I don't envy you rewiring the chassis. Mark Oppat may have the parts you are looking for at : http://www.oldradioparts.net/
or Play things of the past: http://www.oldradioparts.com/index.html
or John Kendall at : http://www.vintage-electronics.com/rjy.htm

If you need any closeups of the chassis wiring just let me know. Hopefully I will be able to get back on my bench in Mid-January. Good luck and just ask for help when or if you need it, everyone here is very helpful.

Glenn

[joejoe]

Hi Glenn,

Thanks for the quick reply. I think I may take you up on some pictures or help with the wiring, on this Philco 118.
I hope that my parts arrive soon and I can really get started re-wiring the chassis.

This is actually my first time restoring a radio. I have never done anything like this before. When I first looked at the chassis and saw all the damage, done be the mice , I had second thoughts about working on this radio. All the damage done by the mice was overwhelming.

While I was removing all the components and damaged wires I just knew that this was not a good idea; however, now that I have all the parts are out, the chassis cleaned up and the thought of new parts arriving, and going in, I have a better outlook for this radio.

Like I said I think I will be asking for your help with pictures, the wiring etc. I also feel much better attempting this knowing there are people out there more then willing to give advice, help or ideas of what or how to do this. Thanks to you and all that may help.

Joejoe

[Glenn Roberts]

I'm curious if anyone has information about different code numbers or production changes for this. All the labeling is gone and I just discovered another difference between the chassis layout/parts list and this one I have on my bench. Block number 16 is listed as a 3615-d and in actuality it is a 3615-AP with a 50k flexible resistor where a dog bone resistor is shown. Now the multiple connections on the block make sense.

Glenn

[joejoe]

Hi Glenn,

I am finally back to working on this 118. I have some parts and started rewiring the chassis. After a few minutes I ran into a problem. According to the schematic, I have, the center tap, of the detector transformer, part 12, goes to part 17, a .05 ufd cap. Could this right? I believe that the center tap, of part 12, should go to the junction of parts 10 (70K ohm) and part 15 (2 megohm) and also the .05 ufd cap.

Glenn, could you check to see if the center tap of part 12 (Xformer) goes to part 10 (70K ohm), part 15 (2Megohm) and part 17 (.05 ufd).

Thanks Glenn

[Glenn Roberts]

Hi JoeJoe,

I found quite a few deviations from the schematic so I will try my hand at using paint shop to highlight the wires and part numbers you are questioning.

OK here is a link to the picture I took, I wanted you to be able to zoom in and didn't want to clutter up Ron's Phorum

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56089156@N0...842118219/

There is a .05 cap going from the center tap to ground there is also a connection to the series of resistors and cap you were asking about too. It doesn't go to #4 like the schematic shows. FYI, I acquired another 118 chassis for parts and it is connected the exact same way. It didn't have the shunt resistor either,, and the Shadowmeter coil was open on it too... . I guess I just need to rewind the coil, no getting around it.

Glenn

[joejoe]

Glenn,

Thanks for the answer and the pictures. I can see clearly how it is wired. I made a big red dot showing this connection, on my schematic.

Thank you for your help. I am sure that I will be asking more questions as I get further along with this 118.

Joejoe

[Glenn Roberts]

JoeJoe,

Glad to help. Just let me know if you need any other closeups. you'll find a couple of the Bakelite block numbers have changed too.

Glenn

[joejoe]

Hi Glenn,
I'm back again needing help with the osc. transformer, part #23.
Here is a link to a photo of what I have. ( I hope this link works. )

[Image: http://s1061.photobucket.com/albums/t480...Part23.jpg]

I labeled the transformer connections 1 thur 5. Pin 1 goes to the 800uufd cap, pin 2 no connection, pin 3 goes to a 51K resistor and pins 4 and 5 are connected to cap #22.
Which one of these connections, 4 or 5, goes to the grid of the 6A7?
Thanks for your help once again.

Joe

[Glenn Roberts]

Hi Joe,
According to your numbering, a connection from Coil #4 to 6A7 #4 needs to be made I also noticed your #5 has only one connection, mine has a wire to the bottom of the bandswitch as well. I can post a picture of this location if you need.

Glenn

[joejoe]

Thanks Glenn,
I was uncertain about both pins 4 and 5. I knew one went to the 6A7 and one went to the bandswitch but I didn't know which one went where. Your info was a big help. I will be wiring it up how you told me.

I am sure that I will be asking for your help with some other transformers. I want to make sure that I have them connected properly.

Joe