[morzh]

Hi,

In the Philco 80 there are the Sprague can caps that have the top caps that are beaded around the cylinder. Sort of like a beer bottle cap, only smooth, with no ruffles for the opener.

Is there any way to lift the caps without damaging them? I'd like to avoid cutting and to just press the cap out, and the glue it in place when done re-stuffing.

Maybe someone tried that already.

Mike.

[37silverstreak]

Hi Mike,
Unfortunately, you can't press the tops off those caps. they are sealed. The only way to get inside is to cut the tops off. there is a post on here titled "Restuffing can caps-one more way to do it" in which a member details how he does it. I've tried it myself and it works great! Plus it makes any future repairs a snap to get to!

http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...p?tid=1002

Good luck.
Kevin

[morzh]

Thanks Kevin

Yes, I saw the post - it's been here awhile. It's a great way; I just wanted to know if there's another way.
I guess I will go with it.

[morzh]

Removed the tops with the sharpened steak knife (I have forged Wusthoffs, so did not take long).

Now, what do I do with the tar inside - there's a lot of it, and it seems to be a different kind from the one that I saw in the big filter module in Philco 20.
Do I melt it, scoop it, push it out?
What worked the best for most of you?

The caps are the aluminum type with two wires out.
The exact type - Sprague LC16.

[codefox1]

I like to perform these not so delicate operations outside. Turn upside down and tease with the propane torch all around until the crap drops out onto the newspaper or whatever you have thoughtfully placed beneath it. (This also works for potted transformers.) Twist the remains until it all severs and comes out. You can soak the can in paint thinner (outside, please) overnight to dissolve the rest of the drek.

Then there is the put in the freezer method, and the corkscrew method, etc... Lots of other methods, most not all that nice. Protect eyes hands, etc...

[Eliot Ness]

I like to perform these not so delicate operations outside. Turn upside down and tease with the propane torch all around until the crap drops out onto the newspaper or whatever you have thoughtfully placed beneath it........

That's the way I like to do it because it's fairly quick. That and I like the satisfying sound of the potted glob as it lands on the newspaper or other container

I think the last time I used a heat gun on a potted capacitor assembly in an Atwater Kent, but it wasn't quite as easy as the torch method. Some guys even go to a thrift shop and buy a used toaster oven to heat these up. Like codefox said, there are a lot of ways, just do a search and find one that works for you.

[Ron Ramirez]

Likewise, I use a heat gun on the aluminum electrolytics which are potted inside with tar in order to get the insides out.

Yes, it is messy, and yes, it can smell bad. This is why it should be done outdoors, as Codefox and Eliot suggested.

[morzh]

Thanks, Ron.

About the other topic - I tried to ask that in the existing topics, but my experience is - they go to sleep after awhile and people no longer notice them. This time is no exception either.

I had that in my old topics several times - this was the reason I started new topics, like this one, vs. asking it in my Philco 80 thread. People just stop noticing them after awhile.

Sorry, I'll try to stick to the "keep the old topic going" rule.

[Ron Ramirez]

Sometimes a "Hey, wake up, you old fogeys!" shout out works.

[DeckApe]

When re-stuffing an electrolytic, which end is the positive lug? Can, or the rubber-insulated bit in the center? (Or for those of us that have just a snip of trouble following the schematic occasionally...)

[codefox1]

The negative end almost always universally goes to the can, can't think of any execptions. Whether the can is isolated from the chassis is another matter. B- floats in some sets, but not all. Trust the schematic.

[DeckApe]

Th3e negative end almost always universally goes to the can, can't think of any execptions. Whether the can is isolated from the chassis is another matter. B- floats in some sets, but not all. Trust the schematic.

I trust the schematic; I don't trust myself to not get lost in it.

[Arran]

I would use a heat gun or bake it in an old toaster oven to melt the innards out, not too high maybe 250 F or so, propane torch is a little too hot and tar does burn if you get it hot enough.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

When re-stuffing an electrolytic, which end is the positive lug? Can, or the rubber-insulated bit in the center? (Or for those of us that have just a snip of trouble following the schematic occasionally...)

The PLUS is always the center wire. The cylinder, unless insulated (when two wires are used like in my case) is always the MINUS.

[morzh]

I would use a heat gun or bake it in an old toaster oven to melt the innards out, not too high maybe 250 F or so, propane torch is a little too hot and tar does burn if you get it hot enough.
Regards
Arran

Hey Arran,

thanks for answering. Yes, propane torch is to much even if only for the reason of burning the label with Sprague info on it, and without the label it is just an aluminum can.
I guess I'll have to use Milwaukee outside the house.