Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 41-290 audio output and speaker information requested
#1

Hello All,
I just acquired a 41-290 console and have a few questions about the audio output circut, etc. Unfortunately, someone cut the wires between teh chassis and speaker, even though they could have just removed the speaker plug. It looks as if there was an output transformer mounted on the speaker that is missing.

I checked my Riders' manuals for this information (in section 12-7, if my memory serves me correctly) and can't find out any information on this.

Would someone be able to tell me if the output transformer was mounted on the speaker, and what replacement audio output transformer would work with a pair of 41's? Also, how can I figure out which wires from the chassis would go to their corresponding connectors on the speaker plug?

I'd like to get the audio section straightened out before I give the set a total recap.

Any information will be greatfully appreciated.

Very Best Regards,
Joe Cro N3IBX
#2

Info gleaned from Philco Service Bulletin #325.

The audio output transformer, pn/ 32-8120 in chassis mounted (underneath) and is next to the 37 tube by the power transformer.

The field coil on this 14" EM speaker is 1,100 ohms DC. The speaker is p/n 36-1523. The voice coil impedance is 5.1 ohms at 400 Hz. and has a hum-bucking coil to boot.

This speaker is also used on models 41-285 and 41-287.
#3

Chuck,
Many thanks for the information! I'll pull the chassis out of the case to see if it has the audio transformer in it.

Any idea what I could use to sub the field coil and the 400hz humbucking choke? I have a goodly supply of chokes on hand I could possibly use, but would have to check their ratings.

Very Best Regards,
Joe Cro N3IBX
#4

The hum-bucking coil is part if the speaker filed coil pot, which is missing. It's obviously only needed when the "magnet" for the speaker is the filed coil. If you're subbing a PM speaker, it's not needed.

BTW, it's not a 400 Hz hum-buck coil. The 400 Hz. refers to the test frequency that the VOICE COIL is rated at it's 5.1 ohms impedance. An 8-ohm PM speaker will work fine.

You should check Play Things Of Past at http://www.oldradioparts.com for a NOS or pull speaker. Gary has lotsa stuff.

A large 1,100 ohm, 15 watt power resistor will sub for the field coil. Be sure you have plenty of clearance around it. It will get HOT. I'd suggest an aluminum-clad unit that will heat-sink nicely to the chassis with some thermal grease - just like a power transistor. Mouser sells them. 284-HS15-1.5KF $2.39

Spec Sheet: http://www.arcol.co.uk/uploads/products/hsseries-10.pdf

1.5K will be the closest and that will be ok, as the A/C line voltage is 120 instead of 115 so the B+ in the set should still be a nominal value.
#5

Chuck,
The enclosed is all I have remaining on my speaker, the PM for the speaker itself, and two wires going from the speaker to the connector on it. Also, I assume I have the correct speaker with it. It appears as if someone pulled off the field coil, etc etc etc.

Best Regards,
Joe Cro N3IBX


[Image: http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/n...C-023S.jpg]
#6

The field coil is there - it's the big winding. Probably 4 wires from it - two for the main coil and two for the hum-buck winding (that ties in series with the voice coil). Looks like all is there, just pulled apart. Check continuity on the vc, hb and files coils. Also looks like the socket has been onscrewed from the speaker frame? Hopefully the vc wires have not been yanked out of the cone or spider.

Pull out the harness plug there in the speaker frame socket to be sure. Mark the socket and plug BEFORE you separate to be sure of correct connection when re-mating.

Usingyour schematic to trace the four wires from chassis and mark them - should be easy, once you id the connections and continuity on speaker elements to re-wire that harness plug.

The four wires from chassis would be two from sec of audio out transformer (to the vc) and the other two from the power supply (see schematic).
#7

Chuck - Your information is VERY MUCH appreciated!
Best Regards,
Joe Cro N3IBX




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM
Philco model 40-100
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on f...mhamby — 05:59 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Hello, Richard the radio is an AC-2687 Studebaker model. The Philco model is S -5323 and the chassis p/n is S-5523Pdouglaski — 11:52 AM
48-482 rear panel help
The 48-482 is an AC only set as well, featuring a power transformer. While the transformer shouldn’t get “hot”, it is ye...jrblasde — 11:12 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I gave a Chrysler/MoPar car radio from 1954, it was made by Philco, and it uses two chassis, one has the power supply an...Arran — 11:06 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Hello keithchip. You could make a hardboard back for the set, but make sure you provide plenty of ventilation holes in ...GarySP — 11:04 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 760 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 759 Guest(s)
Avatar

>