Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco PT-44
#1

Hi All:

I'm new to the forum. I just acquired a PT-44 table radio (wood). It looks very nice. It plays somewhat.

I have two questions:

1- Is this radio a desirable and/or a rare find, approx value working in good shape?

2- Would this radio be considered an easy or tough radio to work on and fix?

Any help would be appreciated.

TommyR Icon_smile
#2

Hi Tommy,
2 Pt-44's have sold recently on Ebay, 1 for $137.50 and the other for $150.
Since it plays "somewhat" it should not be too difficult to recondition.
Main thing is to replace electrolytic and paper capacitors and check for resistors that have drifted in value.

Carl
Northern Panhandle, WV
#3

And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#4

Ron Ramirez Wrote:And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.

OK -- I plan to go slow and careful on this radio.

"Measure twice - cut once".

TommyR Icon_smile
#5

Going nice and slow, especially if this is your first restoration, is good advice. Replace wires and parts one at a time so you don't lose track of where you are, and it should be fairly straight forward.

As far as capacitor values, don't worry too much about not finding "exact" replacement values. In other words, you'll run into some .05 uf caps; modern .047 uf will do the job. 33 uf will replace a 30 uf, 47 uf for 50 uf, .033 will replace .03, and so forth. The important thing is the working voltage - replace with either equal or greater value; don't go down!

After the caps are replaced, an alignment will help it operate much better. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. It sounds like it sort-of works right now, so odds are you have a good set of tubes.

One more bit of advice - replace the power cord with a modern polarized plug. Wire the neutral side (with the wide blade) closest to ground. Be sure to ask if you have any more questions - we're here to help! Icon_smile

Sounds like a nice radio - good luck with it!

Bill

Sent from my Pentium II on the AT&T Dial Network
#6

Bill Hutchinson Wrote:Going nice and slow, especially if this is your first restoration, is good advice. Replace wires and parts one at a time so you don't lose track of where you are, and it should be fairly straight forward.

As far as capacitor values, don't worry too much about not finding "exact" replacement values. In other words, you'll run into some .05 uf caps; modern .047 uf will do the job. 33 uf will replace a 30 uf, 47 uf for 50 uf, .033 will replace .03, and so forth. The important thing is the working voltage - replace with either equal or greater value; don't go down!

After the caps are replaced, an alignment will help it operate much better. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. It sounds like it sort-of works right now, so odds are you have a good set of tubes.

One more bit of advice - replace the power cord with a modern polarized plug. Wire the neutral side (with the wide blade) closest to ground. Be sure to ask if you have any more questions - we're here to help! Icon_smile

Sounds like a nice radio - good luck with it!

Bill

Thanks Bill.

I plan to keep it and use it -- when you think about it, THESE sets were meant to be fixed. To see one in a garbage landfill would be upsetting.

TommyR Icon_smile
#7

Ron Ramirez Wrote:And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.

Yes, replacing the old rubber covered wire can be the worst part of the job. Icon_evil

Carl
Northern Panhandle, WV




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM
Philco model 40-100
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on f...mhamby — 05:59 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Hello, Richard the radio is an AC-2687 Studebaker model. The Philco model is S -5323 and the chassis p/n is S-5523Pdouglaski — 11:52 AM
48-482 rear panel help
The 48-482 is an AC only set as well, featuring a power transformer. While the transformer shouldn’t get “hot”, it is ye...jrblasde — 11:12 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I gave a Chrysler/MoPar car radio from 1954, it was made by Philco, and it uses two chassis, one has the power supply an...Arran — 11:06 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Hello keithchip. You could make a hardboard back for the set, but make sure you provide plenty of ventilation holes in ...GarySP — 11:04 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2352 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 2350 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>