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City: Claremont, NH
Many thanks to John for the great info!
OK Arran,
Here is a pic of the 2nd grille cloth.......looks kind of American Indian to me. First thing that came to my mind was Navajo. But it also could be leftover hippy pattern?? Anyway it looks hand done and won't stay there.
Here are some pics of the cabinet which is now disassembled. Besides the green paint, the rest of the case was polyurethaned. so I am going to strip it. I will see how that goes
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...lcloth.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...er/top.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...embled.jpg]
Gene
Posts: 3,122
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City: Lexington, KY
Moving right along there Gene! What are the two spots I have circled below? I hope someone didn't sand through the veneer in those two places.
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v348/j.../9S262.jpg]
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
Posts: 309
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Joined: Oct 2011
City: Claremont, NH
Yes, it appears that is what they did. That was why I originally asked the question about the photo finish. I am not a woodworker, but I thought I might be able to stain the wood to try and blend it in with the rest. Will that be possible? These are not the only two spots.
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topc.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topb.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topa.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topd.jpg]
Gene
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
(05-08-2012, 08:44 PM)Gene Pederson Wrote: Yes, it appears that is what they did. That was why I originally asked the question about the photo finish. I am not a woodworker, but I thought I might be able to stain the wood to try and blend it in with the rest. Will that be possible? These are not the only two spots.
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topc.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topb.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topa.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topd.jpg]
Gene
Unfortunately I don't think it will be possible to blend those areas in with the rest, there are too many of them and the area is too large, it looks like the rubbed through areas are as wide as 5/8'' in places and 3 inches long. It looks like someone may have attacked the veneer with a sander. I'm not a brand Z aficionado but it also looks like someone may have removed the veneer from the shoulders on top of the cabinet, it would not have been solid wood like that. I case you are wondering the damaged veneer is quarter sawn French walnut which you can still find, you can also still find the quilted maple veneer as well. Neither type is particularly expensive but it's finicky to replace if you've never tried it before.
I hate to be a party pooper but you may be better off finding an empty cabinet, the only way to repair that sort of obliterating the grain with a dark finish or paint would be to re-veneer the damaged portions by removing a strip of veneer, or re-veneer over the entire control panel section. The shoulders will also need to be reveneered, fortunately you don't have to deal with removing any damaged material there at least. There is nothing worst to deal with then a sloppy hack job on a cabinet except maybe a butchered chassis, unfortunately unlike the electrics every slob out there thinks he can do professional refinishing work after a trip to the hardware store.
Regards
Arran
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(05-08-2012, 10:30 PM)Arran Wrote: (05-08-2012, 08:44 PM)Gene Pederson Wrote: Yes, it appears that is what they did. That was why I originally asked the question about the photo finish. I am not a woodworker, but I thought I might be able to stain the wood to try and blend it in with the rest. Will that be possible? These are not the only two spots.
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topc.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topb.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topa.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/topd.jpg]
Gene
Unfortunately I don't think it will be possible to blend those areas in with the rest, there are too many of them and the area is too large, it looks like the rubbed through areas are as wide as 5/8'' in places and 3 inches long. It looks like someone may have attacked the veneer with a sander. I'm not a brand Z aficionado but it also looks like someone may have removed the veneer from the shoulders on top of the cabinet, it would not have been solid wood like that. I case you are wondering the damaged veneer is quarter sawn French walnut which you can still find, you can also still find the quilted maple veneer as well. Neither type is particularly expensive but it's finicky to replace if you've never tried it before.
I hate to be a party pooper but you may be better off finding an empty cabinet, the only way to repair that sort of obliterating the grain with a dark finish or paint would be to re-veneer the damaged portions by removing a strip of veneer, or re-veneer over the entire control panel section. The shoulders will also need to be reveneered, fortunately you don't have to deal with removing any damaged material there at least. There is nothing worst to deal with then a sloppy hack job on a cabinet except maybe a butchered chassis, unfortunately unlike the electrics every slob out there thinks he can do professional refinishing work after a trip to the hardware store.
Regards
Arran
There's always a compromise. I think the damaged areas could be restored with artist's oil based pigments with a spotting brush after stripping and before new finish coat is applied.
That being said, nothing wrong with "Patina" which of course include the less than competent last attempt at refinishing. Early on I ripped through enough veneer to make my coffiin.
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Thanks for the info on the veneer Arran.
I don't know what the odds are on finding another cabinet in good condition. For now I am stripping this cabinet (half done) of the green paint and the polyurethane that was put on it. I have seen pics of this model that was redone using black as the contrast where the green was on this cabinet. There is actually one that was on radioattic done in black accenting that sold for $1050.00 I believe. Go figure.
Codefox, I will try to get more info on the method you mentioned and see if I think I can manage that. I have also seen cabinets that people have redone that had photofinish on them that was worn away. I will have to weigh my options and see which way to go.
Gene
(This post was last modified: 05-09-2012, 03:02 PM by Gene Pederson.)
Posts: 4,639
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
(05-09-2012, 03:00 PM)Gene Pederson Wrote: Thanks for the info on the veneer Arran.
I don't know what the odds are on finding another cabinet in good condition. For now I am stripping this cabinet (half done) of the green paint and the polyurethane that was put on it. I have seen pics of this model that was redone using black as the contrast where the green was on this cabinet. There is actually one that was on radioattic done in black accenting that sold for $1050.00 I believe. Go figure.
Codefox, I will try to get more info on the method you mentioned and see if I think I can manage that. I have also seen cabinets that people have redone that had photofinish on them that was worn away. I will have to weigh my options and see which way to go.
Gene
One problem with Radioattic is unlike fleabay they only tell your whether the set listed has sold not how much it sold for, all that it gives you is the asking price when it was still available. But lets just say, for the sake of arguement, that your brand Z set is worth $500 in nicely restored condition as a conservative figure, then I figure it's worth spending the time or money restoring it properly especially if you intend to keep it. If we were talking about a common wooden table radio not worth $50 that would be another story, though such a set makes for a good practice cabinet since there isn't anything to ruin.
The way I figure it it will take just as much time to touch up the rubbed through areas as it would to reveneer and I have my doubts as to how well they would blend in with the rest. If it was only a narrow sliver worn through at the edge then I would say that touching up would be the best way to go, in fact medium walnut tone spray would largely obscure it, but these are wide and across the grain. If I were going to experiment with trying to touch up these areas I would try it right now while the cabinet is apart, then if it doesn't look right it's easy to strip it off and go with plan B. It's your call of course but since the cabinet has already been dismantled and is being stripped those areas are much easier to work on then if the cabinet were together. If you chose to farm out the work shipping the cabinet parts to a competitent restorer, like the fellow that Ron is using for his 17X, seems practical.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 309
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Joined: Oct 2011
City: Claremont, NH
Moving right along...........well crawling is more like it ![Icon_biggrin Icon_biggrin](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I have the case just about all stripped; got some cracks filled on the feet and the center piece is the one left that is going to take some time to get the green paint all off.
Talked to John Goller, and he says use "perfect brown" toner on the trim. I can also use dark walnut if I choose. For the sanded off veneer (this stuff is literally paper thin) I have found a video from Pond Cove Paint on a pen backround and graining system that I am going to try. It's not real expensive and it looks like it might just do the trick. If not I can always go for the peel n stick veneer.
Here are some current pics:
http://s1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345/eppeder/
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262f.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262a.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262I.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262b.jpg]
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262e.jpg]
I guess photobucket has changed their site. I can no longer cut and paste the link for individual pics. So you will see my whole album.
OK, I got them over except for two that are covered by the ads on the right hand side of the page.
Gene
(This post was last modified: 05-20-2012, 02:11 PM by Gene Pederson.)
Posts: 13,776
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City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Quote:I can no longer cut and paste the link for individual pics.
Sure you can:
[Image: http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z345...r/262h.jpg]
This is from your Photobucket account
Read these directions here in the Phorum's Phorum 101 section:
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...p?tid=4371
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 309
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Joined: Oct 2011
City: Claremont, NH
Hi Ron,
I don't know how you managed that. For some reason when I now go to photobucket all the ads are partially on top of my pictures and when I mouse over any of the pics the dropdown menus don't appear as they used to. I just tried right clicking and "copy", but when I get back here there is nothing in the box to let me paste the pic.
I wonder if there is a problem with my browser?
Gene
Posts: 15,444
Threads: 539
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Gene,
My shaft was frozen , and Lithium grease foam, the liquid wench, unlocked it in a jiffy.
Posts: 309
Threads: 55
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Claremont, NH
Morzh,
I am glad yours was able to be removed. Mine was loose and would turn, but would not come out. I am all set now as I got the belts in.
Been sanding all day on the case (the solid wood pieces).
I need to get some grain filler and the other stuff to try and do the oversanded burn through spots. Hope to order that tomorrow.
How is your set coming along?
Gene
Posts: 13,776
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Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Gene
Which browser are you using?
If you're using Firefox (better and more secure than Internut Exploder, by the way), I strongly suggest you add the free Adblock Plus to Firefox. This will eliminate many of the ads, but it won't completely eliminate Flash-based ads. There is a blocker for that also, but it will affect all websites using Flash - and this may be more of a PITA than the average Web surfer is willing to deal with.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 15,444
Threads: 539
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Gene
Can you look, what is that bracket that goes next to that rod that goes through the center? How is it secured? There is some kind of cloth there at the base, but I am not sure what it is, and what part it plays.
Posts: 15,444
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Gene,
I did not remove mine, I just lubricated it. Perhaps I will have to when i will try to fit o-rings. The main blt (manual) still works but it is chafed and will have to go, but so far it tuns the cp.
I report my progress in my post, so you can read all I wote there.
I just realized there is a block cap of three electrolytics, that may also have to be restuffed. Will see.
Alo the multi-tap resistor - the GND connection is disconected ( rest is fine). And large resitors seem to gain 25 % so will need to fox it too. Nd. cracked tone control switch.
Well...it is n old radio.
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