Posts: 16,489
Threads: 573
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson
State, Province, Country: NJ
Bandersen
Did the whole block of caps come out easy? I see it had a piece of paper wrapped around. In my case it wouldn't come out - had to chisel it. But then on 20 it is a taller can.
Did you have to heat it or just pushed it out?
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
Sometimes they come out easily if they have the paper surrounding the assembled caps, and it is not impregnated by the goo they pour into the can...
For the ones that are stuck you will have to heat the can. I set the can in a pan of simmering water on the stove.
In a couple of cases I had to drill a small hole in the side of the can near the top to allow air to enter the can as I was pulling the caps out, as the suction developed was making it nearly impossible to do so otherwise.
Posts: 811
Threads: 43
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
There were some cardboard shims around the block wedging it in. Once I pulled them out, the whole block came out easily. I just tugged on the wires.
Posts: 16,489
Threads: 573
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson
State, Province, Country: NJ
Mine (Philco 20) was a sheer nightmare.
The paper got impregnated, and the whole thing got really stuck in there, and the can is high, so it a lot of surface area.
And heating with all its fumes are out of the question if it is a lot of it, as I have family and they won't be to thrilled to sniff that exhaust tailpipe.
I used a chisel and a large drill bit. My blister on the right palm healed only 2 months ago.
Posts: 4,869
Threads: 54
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
In most cases just heating up the sides of the can enough to soften the tar or wax is enough to get it out, then you can drive a large wood screw or cork screw into one of the caps to pull the guts out. I've been told that this won't work on an Atwater Kent can because those have a metal tab or something sticking into the inside of the can.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 05-21-2012, 09:50 PM by Arran.)
Posts: 811
Threads: 43
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
I figure I'd clean up the area around the power transformer while the capacitors are out. Might as well go whole hog and paint the transformer and choke too.
All I had to do was remove two bolts and the power transformer shell came right off.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/72537...bcc0_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8011/72537...8f1d_z.jpg]
While I wait for the paint to dry, I'll rebuild the tone control.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/72537...dcb4_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/72537...053b_z.jpg]
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Nice job on the thread. Wish I had seen this prior to doing my 112. Chassis looks very close. I hope your speaker looks better than mine did.
Jerry
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...cttape.jpg]
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
(This post was last modified: 05-24-2012, 12:31 AM by jerryhawthorne.)
Posts: 811
Threads: 43
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
Yikes! The speakers that came with my set are a little torn and rusty. I'll try repairing the cones with some fabric glue and coffee filter patches as needed.
[Image: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3400/35672...19ce_z.jpg]
I've finished rebuilding the tone control. I used some crumpled cardboard as filler and topped it off with black hot glue.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/72651...789f_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7075/72651...a0eb_z.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 05-24-2012, 10:02 PM by Bob Andersen.)
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Black hot glue...didn't know there was such a thing...what a great idea for those tone controls!  I'll have to see if I can find some around here.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 811
Threads: 43
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
Yes, you can get glue sticks in a rainbow of colors. I use brown for easing the ends after restuffing paper caps. Check at Crafts stores like Michaels or JoAnn Fabrics. One nice property of the glue is that you can soften it up with heat repeatedly. So you can relow it or remove it if needed
Posts: 811
Threads: 43
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
The paint has had time to cure so I reinstalled the power transformer and choke. I also scored a nice philco globe 80 with carton on eBay. It tests very good
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8013/72707...79d0_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7099/72707...b21f_z.jpg]
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Looking good so far, Bob...
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Bob, I love that 80! Great score. For the tone switch, when I removed the caps and tar, it had a cardboard cover surrounding the bottom and sides. The cardboard came off nice. Put the new caps back together inside the cardboard open top box and then cut a business card to shape, painted it flat black, placed it over the top and a few dabs of super glue, there it was. Easy to remove if someone needed to address the cap situation in the future. Wife does not like me to mess with her glue gun!
Also, that speaker I posted looked even worse after I carefully removed the duct tape. Recone time.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 4,869
Threads: 54
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I.S Cohen's and Sons LTD., 1025 Market Street San Fransisco, don't know if they were a Philco dealer but they apparently tested the tube on the 17th of January 1935. I wonder what's located at 1025 Market Street these days? It looks good so far but that brown vinyl power cord needs to go, my Philco 96 had a cloth one but it is two years older. I know where a Micheal's Craft store is but we don't have any JoAnnes Stores here, maybe I will look in Fabric Land but I'm not optimistic about what they may have in terms of glue sticks.
Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
|
I am back to working on this radio and managed to get a couple of radio stations to come in. But can someone help me to ...osanders0311 — 01:58 PM |
48-482 rear panel help
|
Hi Kettlechip and welcom to the Phorum.
The back panel question is interesting. I have quite a few radios that use pow...MrFixr55 — 08:24 AM |
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
Not too much at all! :lol: Sounds like you’re just dabbling into the hobby!jrblasde — 07:56 AM |
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
Hi Joseph,
Fortunately, Ms. Fixr does not read my computer, or she would warn you against coming to me for sanity ch...MrFixr55 — 07:27 AM |
48-482 rear panel help
|
There's a picture of one of the plastic covers in the following thread:
I bought a full set of them in 2012 or so fro...klondike98 — 11:15 PM |
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
Good sanity check! You are correct—the first (as in, the most counterclockwise) position is for the push button presets....jrblasde — 11:05 PM |
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
Hi Joseph,
First, verify that your band selector is in the correct position for what you want to do. I believe tha...MrFixr55 — 10:59 PM |
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
Got my replacement signal generator in the mail today! I was able to finish alignment of the IF section. I’ve got some t...jrblasde — 09:58 PM |
The list of my radio & TV collection!
|
EdHolland. Glad you liked it. Thanks for the supportRadioSvit — 05:24 PM |
The list of my radio & TV collection!
|
Great stuff, Peter thank you for posting.EdHolland — 04:06 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|

|