[SteveJB]

I changed out all the caps but one, which I saved for last (part 7). This was the only hard one. It was buried behind the antenna coils at the rear of the deck. I could barely see it in there. It was so hard to get to, I decided to leave it in place and just cut one side of it and wire in a new one somewhere else.

I could not see how to take it out without removing the deck and that was "over my head" at this point, too many wires and parts to disconnect. I was able to see one end of it from the top through the hole where the tuning cap goes through. Luckily, I found a 150w soldering iron at a year sales two weeks ago. Never needed on before. My 25w worked fine for several years of restoring.

I unsoldered the grounds with the new iron, unbolt the two front bolts that hold it in place, and then I was able to push the tuning mechanism forward just enough to remove the tuning cap. I was able to cut the end of part 7 and move it aside. I then added a new.05 with one end through the hole and soldered where the old one was and then wired the other side of it to ground on the top of the chassis through that same hole. Now when I have some time to review my repairs, I'll bring it up on the variac and see if it plays. All out of tolerance resistors were also replaced as well as rebuilding the three light fixtures.

How have you replaced this hard to reach cap? Is there an easier way I could not see? I have another 38-116 to restore (this one is for my cousin) and I would to know an easier way if there is one.

Thanks,
Steve

[Arran]

I haven't had one of these 1937-38 modular chassis to work on but apparently you can unbolt the sides of it to get to things. For some reason David Grimes and his group decided to make the RF sections as difficult as possible to service even though other manufacturers like RCA, G.E, Northern Electric/American Bosch, and Wells Gardner seemed to be able to make similar designs with fewer problems in this regard.
Regards
Arran

[TA Forbes]

I don't see any way to replace them that does not involve removing the RF deck. It is not easy but it is do-able.

Diagram what you are doing on a piece of paper. Number each lead you remove with a piece of tape and sharpie. Make your diagram as detailed as possible to "jog your memory" about what goes where when you are putting it back together.

[codefox1]

Nobody expected these sets to survive so many decades in the future. And even then there were bean counters and lawyers breathing heavily upon the engineers and production folks. Radios were expected to have half life of 7 years, like a dog.

But we can still fix these old beasts, just takes patience.

[SteveJB]

I think removing the tuning cap is earier than removing the RF deck now that I have seen some pictures of the deck removed. Less to take apart by far. All caps are easy to get to except that one (part 7). Next time I'll try to put it in from underneath instead of running the lead thorugh to hole on top. That way you never see it when completed.

[cmhsr]

Hi guys I have the same issue on my Philco 37-61. Is there any online how to material in print on this?
Chuck

[SteveJB]

If you remove the tuning cap, you can get to the end you need to solder. Fish the other end back through the hole and pull tha cap through it. Tie that end to a ground from the underside and no one will see it. It worked well for me.