Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Grid cap ?
#1

Hi, I think that is what they are called. Metal cap at top of a tube connected to the grid . I am starting to recap a farm set 41-95 .As I tried to remove the wire carefully from the top of the tube the metal cap came off. So there is a small wire sticking out of the tube on top .
I suspect the seal to the tube is ok. And I can only think this wire needs to be soldered back on. Has anyone had to do this before ? Is there a tip or certain method to use .The cap has a cork like plug in its base that rest against the tube.Then way up at the top of the cap it was soldered .I do not think I can pull that type of solder job off. I know I can't . I was going to half fill the cap with solder heat then stick the tube (upside down ) into the cap . Don't want to learn from experience (mine) if possible.So I would appreciate any info or help on this .
Thanks !

Bill T
#2

Bill-
We have all done it before. If the lead from the tube is full length- that is it will stick through the hole in the metal cap- just resolder it and glue it back on with super glue. You may want to scrape the lead and tin it with solder first.

If the remaining lead on the tube is short, you will have to scrape it carefully with an Xacto knife, and wrap it with some fine buss wire, and solder it. Before you feed this fine wire through the grid cap hole, leave an extra length inside the cap so that your wire doesn't come unsoldered from the tube lead when you do the final cap joint.

Pete AI2V
#3

Pete, Thank for the instructions .That was the first time I run into that.
Did not realize there was a hole in the cap . I did'nt think the solder was on the outside , it looked like metal or part of the cap ! That was'nt so bad after all.I thought I was going to have to solder the wire up inside the cap somehow. Anyway worked out fine once I read your post and tried it .
Thanks for the help!

Bill




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Yes the 16B as morzh pointed out. Specifically its the January 1935 model version of the 16B. There are a couple earli...klondike98 — 11:51 PM
48-482 rear panel help
Welcome to the Phorum, keithchip! How far you take a radio on cabinet restoration is a matter of personal preference. ...GarySP — 11:28 PM
48-482 rear panel help
I've recently finished the internal restoration of a locally purchased Philco 48-482. The cabinet is in ok shape except ...keithchip — 10:28 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Welcome to the Phorum, Ken! Lots of help here for all of your restoration questions. Take care and BE HEALTHY! - Gar...GarySP — 07:59 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Thank you. I went to your online library and found 2 schematics. I will download and compare to components!Ken D. — 06:31 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
It is a 16B tombstone.morzh — 06:13 PM
Zenith H725
David - sorry, I reread your post and finally saw THD - now the % figures make sense. Thanks for explaining. The PSU...EdHolland — 06:06 PM
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
Hi Everyone, New member but have been reading this for awhile for tips! Vaccum tubes were before my time so bear with ...Ken D. — 06:03 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Thank you MrFixR55, I appreciate your comments very much. I do not detect much hum if any so I will be staying with the ...dconant — 05:15 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hi DConant Yes, you can replace chokes with resistors.  You do stand the risk of increased hum.  the solution is to inc...MrFixr55 — 04:23 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 590 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 589 Guest(s)
Avatar

>