Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Grid cap ?
#1

Hi, I think that is what they are called. Metal cap at top of a tube connected to the grid . I am starting to recap a farm set 41-95 .As I tried to remove the wire carefully from the top of the tube the metal cap came off. So there is a small wire sticking out of the tube on top .
I suspect the seal to the tube is ok. And I can only think this wire needs to be soldered back on. Has anyone had to do this before ? Is there a tip or certain method to use .The cap has a cork like plug in its base that rest against the tube.Then way up at the top of the cap it was soldered .I do not think I can pull that type of solder job off. I know I can't . I was going to half fill the cap with solder heat then stick the tube (upside down ) into the cap . Don't want to learn from experience (mine) if possible.So I would appreciate any info or help on this .
Thanks !

Bill T
#2

Bill-
We have all done it before. If the lead from the tube is full length- that is it will stick through the hole in the metal cap- just resolder it and glue it back on with super glue. You may want to scrape the lead and tin it with solder first.

If the remaining lead on the tube is short, you will have to scrape it carefully with an Xacto knife, and wrap it with some fine buss wire, and solder it. Before you feed this fine wire through the grid cap hole, leave an extra length inside the cap so that your wire doesn't come unsoldered from the tube lead when you do the final cap joint.

Pete AI2V
#3

Pete, Thank for the instructions .That was the first time I run into that.
Did not realize there was a hole in the cap . I did'nt think the solder was on the outside , it looked like metal or part of the cap ! That was'nt so bad after all.I thought I was going to have to solder the wire up inside the cap somehow. Anyway worked out fine once I read your post and tried it .
Thanks for the help!

Bill




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM
Philco model 40-100
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on f...mhamby — 05:59 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Hello, Richard the radio is an AC-2687 Studebaker model. The Philco model is S -5323 and the chassis p/n is S-5523Pdouglaski — 11:52 AM
48-482 rear panel help
The 48-482 is an AC only set as well, featuring a power transformer. While the transformer shouldn’t get “hot”, it is ye...jrblasde — 11:12 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I gave a Chrysler/MoPar car radio from 1954, it was made by Philco, and it uses two chassis, one has the power supply an...Arran — 11:06 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Hello keithchip. You could make a hardboard back for the set, but make sure you provide plenty of ventilation holes in ...GarySP — 11:04 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2345 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 2343 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>