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I've been through the postings on spray lacquer toner and am beginning to get a grasp as to what needs to be done. In the interest of placing only a single order for toner, could someone give me a hint as to how many cans are needed for my 37-660 console. I've stripped it down to bare wood, turned new feet (the old ones were rotted to the point where they were hardly more than powder) and am nearly finished with repairing the cracked curved veneer so I am close to being ready to go. Also, the inside of the console is peeling, faded and otherwise damaged. Should this be stripped and repainted or just left alone (the quality of the wood itself is OK)? The damage was so severe on the outside of the cabinet that I was left with no choice other than stripping it down to bare wood.
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I like to at least put a coat of shellac on cabinet insides. bottom and back edges after a good washdown and overnight drying.
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Using shellac or grain filler is a good idea first. Or sanding sealer, but the sealer does not fill the grain as well.
I believe medium walnut is the color to use, over the entire set, but Ron is the expert in this arena. I would recommend using a dye based toner for the portions of the radio that used nice wood that you want/should be able to see the woodgrain through. Pigment based toner should be used on the portions of the radio that were made of lesser grade wood, like the base moulding. Another way to do this is mask the rest of the radio and spray more coats of dye based toner on those parts of the radio.
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I would paint the inside of the cabinet with flat black paint, use a primer first if you have to. Don't use shellac in spite of what some sources say, especially on the outside, lacquer will not bond well to shellac and could peel off. Shellac and varnish may work together but not shellac and lacquer.
Regards
Arran
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Many thanks for the good advice. I plan to spend time in the basement on the radio today. Can anyone give me an estimate as to how many cans of spray lacquer toner I will need?
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I'd get 2 just to be safe...if this isn't too late already.
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City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Well, it depends. If you are going to use on spray for toning (and even that divides into a dye over plain wood or a tint for burl, you could be looking to a couple of cans. Then there is the top coating, clear or matte, once you get the hue and value in check. Chroma will be determined by layers of clear matte or gloss over the corrected piece. You'll need to wait a week or so between treatments, especially at this time of year in many places. If you run out, don't worry, a properly prepared lacquer surface can be added to later.
I only advised shellac on inside of cabined to provide vapor barrier. Could easily be followed by black paint or whatever. Agree shellac does not provide proper tooth for lacquer, but still can be used to fill pores, provided most of it on smooth surfaces is abraded. Any port in a storm for damaged stuff. Top coat lacquer Two cans here.
(This post was last modified: 07-07-2012, 04:26 PM by
codefox1.)