[Arran]

I just checked it, there is something called the "International Art Museum" there now, whatever that means, I thought most art museums had international art? Mr. Cohen and his Sons must have moved on to greener pastures, too bad.
Regards
Arran

[Bob Andersen]

Nice detective work. I'll be replacing the vinyl power cord later. I have plenty of reproduction cloth line cord on hand.

[Arran]

I just typed the address into the usual search engine and that's what came up, an art museum of some kind. I bought some tubes off of fleabay once and they all originally came from the San Fransisco naval base, they were 1629s.
Regards
Arran

[Bob Andersen]

I did a little trading with another collector and got these three Zenith copper caps. They don't quite look like the Mershons show here, but I think they'll look pretty good.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8151/73467...5498_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8009/71615...d362_z.jpg]

I also got lucky on ebay again and scored a nice Philco globe 42
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/71615...edfb_z.jpg]

[TA Forbes]

Nice 2X score!

I got two 42 globes awhile back, intend to use them for an "all globe" project.

[Bob Andersen]

Good luck. I think I have a full set of good globes for this set now. Time will tell.

The caps are cleaning up very nicely
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/73474...2167_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8167/73474...e7e5_z.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

Here's a dry run of the new copper caps. They sure are pretty
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/73568...820f_z.jpg]

I'm thinking of using some poly film caps in parallel to make a 6.6uF @ 630 volt cap. They should last many years.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7236/71716...acc0_z.jpg]


I'm finally taking some time to checkout the shadow meter. I've been dreading finding an open coil.
Well, it's not open, but it measures 5.7K. That's a lot higher than the 1.1K indicated as the correct resistance in this thread recently.
Perhaps this is an older style meter with a higher resistance ?
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8153/73568...ee11_z.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

I rigged up a battery for the light bulb and drove the meter with a 1 Hz, 20 volt p-p sine wave. It works
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/71717...c365_c.jpg]

Here's a little video clip of it in action http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7356918110/

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/71717...5b55db.jpg] [Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/73569...39dca8.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

Yummy!
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7080/71747...daae_z.jpg] [Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8025/73599...5699_z.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

Time to check out the speakers. The originals look like the spent some time in a very damp environment - possibly even submerged. I also found that he voice coil in the smaller speaker is clogged up with rust and dirty and doesn't move much.

[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7260/76201...09c1_z.jpg]

[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7125/76201...8324_z.jpg]

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8288/76201...b765_z.jpg]

Luckily, I scored a set of Wheeler speakers on ebay a few years ago that have identical dimensions and wiring. Also, the resistance matches the Philcos very closely except for the output transformer secondary plus voice coils. I get 6.5 for the Philco and only 0.3 for the Wheeler. I think 0.3 is about what I've measured in other speakers.
The Philco values are in black and Wheeler in purple.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8162/76201...b734_z.jpg]


So much as I'd like to keep the set all original, I'll go with the Wheeler for now.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7252/76201...11a1_z.jpg]

[jerryhawthorne]

Bob, coming along nicely! Your inspiring me to start on my 111. A late comment on the multi cap box you restuffed. Looks very much in construction to the 112. Being a chicken and hating to cut off a lot of wires, only to have to hook them back up again, when I rebuilt the box on the 112 I took the approach I use on bakelite blocks. Turned the chassis over and used a proper size drill in my little hand drill. One half turn of the drill in the feedthrough holes on the underside and snap, the cap wires are broke off. Then chassis back upright, removed the four holding screws and the whole top with guts came off the base. I was lucky my tar inside just about fell out. This left the base still wired underneath but of course loose. Did the restuff on the base going down through the original holes. In this way, I didn't have to deal with all the wiring underneath. It stayed in tack. Just my approach. Hope it will work on the 111 project when I get to it. Other phorum members have indicated a thread as to how they go about the 111. Will have to look that up.
Nice job your doing.
Jerry

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks. Your technique sure does sound easier. I'll keep it in mind if I ever encounter one of these cap boxes again.

[Radioguy52]

WOW this is a great post. I wish I had your talent.. I am doing a 15X. I completed all of the CAPs and Resistors less the BIG multi can. The wires looked pretty brittle and I was not comfortable unsoldering the mess. (I ohm'd the 5K resistors - and checked for opens/shorts on the CAPS and they looked OK) The radio plays but does seem weak in the 570-770 KHZ range. I am anxious to see your final results.

[Glenn Roberts]

Looking good!! I'm enjoying your posts.

Glenn

[jerryhawthorne]

Radio guy, just say "I am not afraid" and attack that big can. Easy, attached a picture of my restuff on a 112. Never disconnected the wires from below.
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...igcap2.jpg]