[Marsupial]

2 questions.

1; how to properly clean the dial glass without damaging its printing?

2; the Philco 47-1230 has some metal attachment on the back of its backglass. On the back, it seems like it is some tin foil, even has an aluminium look to it. However, the glass side seems to be rusted.
Is it rust? How do we clean it?

   
   
   

thanks a lot for any help.

[Arran]

It's likely a metallic paint, before attempting to clean make sure that the paint is till adhered to the glass. If it's well adhered and not bubbled or flaking I would test an inconspicuous corner of the printed side with a solution of soap and water before attempting to clean the rest. The front side of the glass is perfectly safe to try cleaning. No matter what you use I don't think that stain will come out, that stain is some form of oxidation of the metallic paint and I don't know of any fix for it. If it really bugs you, and you can't live with it, you could consult Radio Daze about making a reproduction which is a service they now offer. It may be simpler and cheaper to just buy a better glass salvaged from a junked post war Philco model with the same dial rather then getting a reproduction made, in general post war floor models are not that sought after.
Regards
Arran

[Marsupial]

I don't think that there will be anything wrong with the glass, but I am wondering what to do with the sheet metal. I am thinking I could clean it with steel wool and if it fail I could repaint it. Its some kind of bronzish brown textured coloration. Metal paint perhaps. I'll try soap and water first and see from there.

I was about to purchase another dial glass plus other parts from a 47-1230 on arf, but the seller snoozed and when he was back & ready for selling, I was over my head with overtime at work, so it didn't happen. The 47-1230 was the only radio from that series of models to have AM, FM and Shortwave. However, I'd be quite happy with just AM/FM, as I don't think there's anything to catch on SW and even if there was, I am no SW expert so the markings wouldn't be that much of an indication for me...

if anyone did clean up one of them metal backplate, please let me know how before I attempt anything stupid. ;)

[Marsupial]

The glass cleaned easily. No big surprise.

The metal backplate, however, seems to be a bit more difficult.

I am uncertain if its a brownish finish (paint?) that was eaten by time, or if the finish was supposed to be metal and just oxidized. Maybe someone with more knowledge of those radios (Ron?) would know..?

I am really tempted to just sand it down and refinish it. Question is, what is the correct finish, anyway?

[Marsupial]

From looking at the metal colored back of the backplate, it seems to have been sprayed (there is some overshoot on the otherwise metal side)

So, I'd think its some kind of metal paint that was damaged with years.
I could very well just refinish it. I don't quite know what type of paint I'd take. This has some texture to it. It seems to be a brownish bronze, or a bronzish brown...

[Arran]

Sorry, I just looked at your pictures again, there really is a metal backing plate or mask behind the dial, that makes things easy. I though it was some sort of metalic back paint like most dials from then seem to have. I would go on the hunt for some suitable bronze or brown metalic spray paint, and primer, strip the old paint and rust off, and start over.
Regards
Arran

[Marsupial]

Yes there is!
In fact, its the holder that keeps it in place. I tought it was painted, with 4 small holder (like modern components) but its a whole backplate with 4 tabs for the screws.
I didn't realize it before I took it off, its really well made.

I am uncertain what was the original color; I think whatever paint was there, it oxidized with time.

[Marsupial]

What type of paint should I take to minimize chances of the metal sheet to end up glueing to the glass over time?

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

        I just finished restoring a 47-1230 and after removing the dial glass, the backside looked fairly clean so I didn't mess with it. Just took some Windex to the front (sprayed onto a soft cloth, not directly onto the glass) and cleaned it that way.

[codefox1]

Not sure what the issue is here. If the glass is OK, and I would only proceed very carefully with paint thinner and never water on back. Then the pointer would be in the middle and you don't want it to scratch glass on front or back plate. If the back plate is rusty or really nasty, clean it up, spray with krylon of silver or copper hue as best as you can dentermine, and put it back together. Assemblies often had rubber spacers which have probably turned nearly to dust by now. Beg a scouple of rubber gasket scraps from your local auto repair shop and replace. You can double or triple up pieces if more room is needed. Replace the pilot lights as well, even if they still look good. Depending on the set, not good news when they fail.

[Marsupial]

On the 1230 and its siblings, the glass is painted and has a metal attachment directly in contact with it, that resembles a layer of paint, then some space for the needle before an actual backplane where the lights shine.

That pane only has openings where the stations are written, to see the needle. I originally assumed it was paint, I believe most radios don't have such robust protection on the back of the glass... Problem is to paint it, I guess.

[Marsupial]

I got a can of dupli-color "bronze high performance wheel coating" that is intended to be sprayed on mags or something. The color is somewhat paler, but caught my eye as being the same tint and felt appropriate.

Being that I am uncertain how the plate was 65 years ago, I might be up to something

nevertheless, the color is pleasing. A bit paler than what was there when I got it, but good looking. I tried the color and got that:
[note that the pictures render it somewhat darker than real life - its more like ... dark champagne than pure bronze. Bronze would have been closer to the original color I think, but this looks great]

   

   

I decided to sand down whatever was left there to give that weird texture on most of the surface (uncertain if it was voluntarily textured or rusted metal) and recoat it. Its drying but looks great. That paint gives a nice finish - its made for car wheel; metal and supposedly heavy duty - and it dries fast (could touch it after 5-10 minutes. I'll still let it dry at least a day before putting the glass back)

it might not be 100% original, but it'll look great.

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

[Marsupial]

Thanks!

The original finish was damaged- I don't know how you can damage under the glass when it is in direct contact, maybe a drop of water or something.
It was bugging me.

now it looks great = I am happy

[Marsupial]

Here's what it looks like on the radio.