[Texasrocker]

Hello Guys, I have the mid-chassis out (37-630 late version) on the bench for re-capping and replacing all the old point-to-point brittle cloth wiring. I am using my Riders vol 7 schematic and found a discrepancy. In the front compartment of the mid-chassis Riders schemat calls for a .1 uf, and the orig large philco cap is a .10uf @ 450. ( part # 20 on Riders parts-list on pg # 60 philco 37-630.
The orig philco condenser needing replaced is orig part # (30-4170 P), which the orig part is still in place,(large cardboard tubular) and definately marked: .10 uf/450., and the part # matches in Riders. Was wondering which cap to use in mfds, that is correct, and if I should make a note of this for "correction" in my orig Riders book? Thanks in advance for helping me get the correct part info that should be used. Randal

[Texasrocker]

....my bad.... after closer thought, reading these old caps , my cap in question in my previous post (.10uf), is a modern day .1 uf. Im getting to be a old-fart, and easily confused sometimes! Otherwise, the restoration of my Philco radio continues!! Randal

[Texasrocker]

I just about have the mid-chassis completed as far as full recap and all new point to point wiring replaced. I left the leads long enough to reach over into main-chassis for their proper connections. I completed full main chassis recapping & all new point to point wiring last week, even back into power-trans internal connections. Did a close check of the power-trans and all voltages are working properly. Waiting for my new repro Philco mid-chassis mounting-grommets to arrive. The contacts are dirty on the band switches. Most of the time I just lubricate switches with good-ol WD-40, and everything works OK. Im wondering if I should buy a spray can of "deox-it" to spray all the contacts with before re-assembly? Is that really necessary? In most cases, WD-40 cant be beat relubing on switches and vol controls. Also, the schemat calls for a #55 dial lamp in the dial-lamp socket. I have almost every other type of dial replacement lamps in-house, except for the #55 round type lamp. I read on Chucks site that the shadowmeter lamp in this 37-630 matches a # 44 dial lamp which I have plenty of in stock. What do you guys use? I probably have one somewhere. Any & all your "tips" would be greatly appreciated! Randal

[Ron Ramirez]

I use the Type 55 dial lamp in 1936, 37 & 38 Philcos. The large socket & collar assembly was designed for this bulb, and it gives out a bit better light than does the Type 44 in this application. The Type 44 should, as mentioned, be used as the shadowmeter lamp.

[Texasrocker]

Thanks Ron!! I will get a box of new #55 lamps from AES and keep them in-house also. I will use the #44 in the shadowmeter socket. I still have to rewire both lamp-sockets also. The radio is about ready for initial "slow-up" on the variac in the next few days to see if I get audio. Someone in the past really "hacked" it up good installing replacement under-chassis filter caps, wrong caps in wrong places in the past! The radio has a complete point to point rewiring (following Riders), even into the coil-connects in both IF cans. Those old cloth wires were in very bad condition to "crumbling" cloth wiring. I went ahead and pulled both IF cans, and after running new wires, tried my best to remember the lead-dress as orig under chassis. I will have to add a 10 watt wirewound field of 1140 ohms? ( is that correct?), and connect a pm spkr for test after the chassis is all back together. Still flying-by-the-seat-of-my-pants on this one, but it should at least make audio after being-dead for yrs, then I can go from there. Thanks again for all your help!! Sincerely!, Randal

[Ron Ramirez]

The original field coil of the speaker used in this model was 1140 ohms. If you are using a wirewound resistor in place of a speaker field, 1000 ohms will be fine. Personally, however, I feel 10 watts is a bit low. I prefer to use 25 watts minimum in these instances. You'll see why when that 10 watt resistor gets red hot!

[Texasrocker]

I agree Ron, those 10 w wirewounds do get very warm!! Ive never seen one turn "red" yet. I have been using the 10 watters for smaller-space requirements for several yrs. I usually mount them across a good quality terminal-strip wherever they will fit on top of the chassis somewhere out of the way, and not to close to anything that the dissapating heat would damage. I have played my vintage radios for many,many hrs with no probs so far. I may have been "very lucky" so far also!! I will "up" the wattage to get a cooler-running resistor on this radio!! Thanks again for steering me in the right direction on these old radios!! I really appreciate all your help and pro advise very much!! Randal