[TA Forbes]

Believe you should be OK. Personally, I like using values close to that of the original.

[KCMike]

Thanks TA Forbes. I thought it would be ok but always like to get expert opinion. This has been a long slow process. I'am finally down to the big metal cap. can with 7 capacitors in it of 2 different values 3-0.25 and 4- 0.05 . Have not opened it up yet or desoldered any wires. If you or anyone else has restuffed one of these are there any problems to look out for? Thanks

[TA Forbes]

Several threads here in the Phorum that outline good methods to restuff.

I like to use a piece of "hard wire," like that used for wiring home service, as a "buss bar" connected to the ground lug on your can. (see pics)

http://s1194.beta.photobucket.com/user/T...%20Rebuild

Diagram everything you dis-connect. I like using manilla folders to do this. Additionally, I draw the tube diagrams at the top of the folder for reference when I am troubleshooting, etc. (see pic).

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012010.jpg

[codefox1]

I lik to recarb these old sets as most of the original resistors have drifted way up or turned themselves into theromstats that can drive you nuts. Makes a tremendous difference in performance and long term reliability, and costs so very little.

[KCMike]

Thanks for the great ideas and pics. I have been using a yellow tablet to draw on. I like the file folder idea better less chance of damage. About the metal can on my set the cloth covered wires all come out of one hole then go to various points through out the chassis, they are in good shape. Should I try to use them I know 2or3 go to the IF. transformers and it looks tricky to unsolder down in that area. And thanks codefox1, I have been checking and replacing the resistors as I go and finding that most are turning out to have went way up.

[jerryhawthorne]

Mike, don't be afraid of those big cans. As TA said there are many ways to attack them. I prefer not to take the whole base out and disconnect all the wires underneath. The following thread will give you an idea of how I do it. I hate 10 or so wires disconnected from underneath. Read the first couple of pages on this thread.
Jerry

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=5078

[KCMike]

Thanks Jerry, I went ahead and diagramed all the wires out of the can and unbolted it from the chassis. By the way this can is under the chassis. I just bent the tabs back and unsoldered the ground on the side of the can and the tar block slipped right out. I was able to cut the wires even with the block so they will be long enough to go back in the can. Looking at the pics on the link you provided will be a great help with the restuffing. Mike

[jerryhawthorne]

Sorry Mike, didn't realize you were looking at one of those little cans underneath. Yep, bend the tabs and usually everything comes out easy.
Generally not more than two caps in there.
Jerry

[KCMike]

Thanks Jerry,this one has 7 caps in it, or did. I have ordered the new ones as I did not have their values and probably will be 10 days before I receive them. In the mean time I started to study about the speaker, field coil, and output transformer. This speaker was rebuilt back in 1992 and had a cover over the feild coil. I took it off and found that it has a p/m in it no field coil. The 3 speaker wires from the plug in chassis have been unhooked from the ot. so thats why I was trying to figure out where they attached to the transformer. Now I think I have to change some things to make this work. I believe they put a magnet in place of field coil. I will try to attach a pic. with this post.

[jerryhawthorne]

Sorry Mike not the smartest on here but I assumed (you know what that means) that it was a big can on the top. Those underneath open up nice. I will attach a link to hopefully the right schematic. Never saw one of those carrying so many caps. As for the installation of the PM speaker as a replacement, it will or has had some changes to the original radio schematic most likely adding a large power resistor for the field coil and probably increased the value of the electrolyic caps. For those that wish to follow, I have attached the schematic.
Jerry

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013581.pdf

[KCMike]

Here is an image of the speaker.

[Image: http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o654...66b325.jpg]

[jerryhawthorne]

Well, the speaker certainly looks vintage. Are the two wires I can see coming from the speaker to perhaps the transformer going to the voice coil? You can check by just touching the two wires from a VOM at a low voltage setting and see if you get a "click" from the speaker. If so we can guess that the speaker is working. You are certain it is a PM speaker? Good grab after removing the speaker back and touching the metal with a screw driver? If it is a PM speaker it should have a very strong attraction, kind of like me and Britney Spears.
Jerry

[KCMike]

Thanks for working with me on this. I have to appologize I have'nt changed the headline on this thread but I found out that this is a mod144 not 44 . By-pass condensor block #26 on the schem. for 144mod. Do you think its possible that the magnet was added when they repapered the speaker ? The reason I ask is the schem shows #60 as the feild coil and pot assembly. I sent a pic of the speaker and will try one more with the cover off.
[Image: http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o654...5faed3.jpg]

[KCMike]

I checked with screw driver and it is a strong "Britney "I mean magnet. When you get a chance to respond I have read other posts on here about wiring the radio to work with a pm. speaker and wondered what I will need to change to make this work. Sure don't want to damage anything by incorrectly wiring it. Thanks

[jerryhawthorne]

I have never seen anyone modify a E/M speaker to a P/M. Can you read a part number anywhere stamped on the speaker itself? I'm wondering if the speaker was a later replacement?

Link to 144 schematic:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013137.pdf

Jerry