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Now that I've finished the electrical restoration, I'm turning my attention to the cabinet. The photo finish is fair, but the rest is falling apart.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/85551...d5ba_c.jpg]
The dial has seen better days too.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/85562...5f36_c.jpg]
So first I glue and clamped all the loose joints as best I could. Then I picked up some basswood for the bottom edge molding and popcicle sticks for the missing laminations around the front edge.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/85550...4d02_c.jpg]
Out of the blue, phorum member "jmac3ky" contacted me and donated a new dial glass and bezel to the project
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8095/85550...399c_c.jpg]
Next up, I need to deal with this warped split in one side. I figure I'll try steaming and clamping it.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/85550...d465_c.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 03-13-2013, 07:49 PM by
Bob Andersen.)
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You may be able to straighten that cracked area by wetting the wood, squeeze some glue into the crack. and then clamp it between a pair of plastic covered hardwood blocks.
Regards
Arran
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Thanks for the tip. I've been brushing on water for a while and the wood is getting pliable.
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I know a lot of places suggest wax paper, and while it does work I find that wax paper still sticks to the glue somewhat, a plastic bag or Saran wrap doesn't. By the way warm water and a stiff brush gets rid of any glue stains if you have any.
Regards
Arran
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Good to know that trick worked in this case, I won't call it mine but I worked it out some time ago. Being very budget minded when I was starting out I ran into a lot of cabinets with similar problems to this 38-62.[/align]
Regards
Arran
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Bob, that's great. Quick question - from the picture you had your clamps apply force perpendicular to that split, versus pressing from above it and below it. I'm a woodworking novice, so forgive my ignorance - why did you place your clamps there, versus the top and bottom of the set? Is it because the top corner is curved and you couldn't properly set clamps there? Or did the wood bow out to the side and you had to push it back in? Just curious, thanks.
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The wood bowed out to the side and it took quite a bit of force to push it back in - even after softening with water. I also glued a piece of wood inside across the split for additional bracing.
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I got lucky a couple of times b using a towel and steam iron. Seems like the glue underneath was somewhat theromplastic after all those years. Who knew?
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I just finished filling in the last of the cabinet voids. Next, I'll attempt to clean and touch up the photo finish.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/85942...c658_z.jpg]
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/85942...268b_z.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 03-26-2013, 09:37 PM by
Bob Andersen.)
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I carefully sanded down the front with some 600 grit to remove some aligatoring and spots of crud that had hardened on it.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/86173...ae2d_c.jpg]
Here I've wiped it down with mineral spirits for a preview of what it will look like after some fresh lacquer. A little touch up here and there and it will look even better
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/86173...e455_c.jpg]
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Great work as always Bob. Looking forward to seeing the cabinets progress.
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Thanks. I decided to give this
touchup kit from "The Restoration Studio" a try.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/86195...3af6_c.jpg]
It's not perfect, but a lot better I think. After I level the surface with some lacquer sanding sealer, it should look even better.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8393/86195...97b3_c.jpg]
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WOW! That looks GREAT Bob! You are doing some fine resto there
Gene
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