[Colonel Travis]

Been reading lots of great advice here but I still need to ask some questions.

1.) Regarding tinted lacquer for the 91, are the colors for all Clyde Shulers going to be the same - as this 19B in Ron's Cabinet Work for the 2012 Season thread?

[Image: http://i.imgur.com/MK6EKG6.jpg]

2.) When you spray that Mohawk on, do you wipe it in any way or just lightly spray it and leave it?

3.) I've got grain filler from Constantine's - it's best to put down some sanding sealer before that stuff?

4.) As far as the final steps for getting a great finish, I'm at a loss how to get one here. Mohawk's got clears, finishing clears, ultra-flow clear, tone finish clear - so many freaking clears. How do I end well on this radio?

[Ron Ramirez]

Gee, that cabinet looks familiar! You know, I still haven't given the cabinet its final rubdown nor have I put the chassis back in. I need to do that.

Anyway, to answer your questions:

1. Basically yes - Medium Walnut for the body including top, sides, and outer front surround - Perfect Brown for the inset front panel.
As for the bottom trim and the trim surrounding the inset front panel, I've seen Philco sets done two ways - some have the extra dark walnut on the trim, but a majority did not. Of those that do not, they carry on the Medium Walnut on the trim surrounding the front panel, and the bottom trim. And as for which models had the real dark trim, there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason - the same model could have been done either way, depending on the cabinet maker and/or the mood of the cabinet department that day.

The trim on my 19B is really too dark. It should be something slightly darker than Perfect Brown, but I do not know at this point what shade it should be. Mohawk's color chart is all but useless.

2. No, never wipe the lacquer after spraying! Carefully spray on and let dry. It will take two, maybe three coats. If you can manage to get the front panel out of the cabinet, it makes things a lot easier - then you can just use the Perfect Brown on the front panel, and Medium Walnut on the rest of the cabinet. Once finished including the clear coats, and thoroughly dry and rubbed out, then reassemble.

3. Yes, definitely.

4. While it appears that the original finish was hand-rubbed gloss (which means that once the final clear coats were applied and allowed to dry, then the cabinet was hand-rubbed to give it its final smoothness and sheen), many collectors prefer semi-gloss as a final coat. High gloss lacquer is better stuff.

I'm not a cabinet expert - hopefully some of our more experienced fellows such as Steve Davis, Bob Anderson, and others will give their thoughts here as well.

[Steve Davis]

Ron is correct, the edges of the front arch and the trim were sometimes toned dark and sometimes lighter to match the front arch. I prefer the later, the core of the arch and the trim parts were a less expensive white wood such as gum or poplar. I try to tone them the same color as the front of the arch. This gives the appearance of the arch being a solid piece of mahogany.

Steve

[Colonel Travis]

Ron, Steve had answered my question about getting the front panel out, which indeed makes it a lot easier.
OK, to clarify about the lacquer spray - do I need to sand between those sprays or just let it dry?

[Steve Davis]

Spray a couple of coats of sanding sealer followed by the grain filler. Now, sand the filler. Next, spray about three coats of clear, allow to dry for a day or so and sand lightly. Follow this with one more coat of clear. If the finish is smooth and to your liking, you can start with your toner. Do not sand the toned coats, if you do you, you will not have an even darkness. Finally finish off with a couple more coats of clear.

Steve

[Colonel Travis]

Understood, thanks again Steve.

[Steve Davis]

One more thing, if you want to add a decal, put it on before the final clear coats.

Steve

[Colonel Travis]

Ah, yes - the decal. Had reminded myself about that a while back but carelessly forgot. Big thanks, screwing that up would have stunk.