Philco 60MB cabinet restoration
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City: Chicago, IL
I couldn't leave this cabinet lying around in pieces so I got to repairing it right away.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/86147...fcf6_c.jpg]
First up, I unmounted the speaker and grille.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8262/86226...8ba2_c.jpg]
I'd really, really like to salvage this grille cloth.
I though maybe I could weave in a patch taken from the top edge, but there's quite a color difference 
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/86237...a3cb_c.jpg]
The speaker is in great condition 
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/86237...c688_c.jpg]
Now for the repairs. I glued and clamped several areas were the plywood and veneer was separating.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/86237...7fc3_c.jpg]
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8113/86226...d6cd_c.jpg]
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/86226...c737_c.jpg]
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Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
Then, I reattached the side with glue and more clamping. I also tacked in a couple temporary small finish nails along the top split edge to hold it while the glue setup.
I also fit the front on while the glue setup to make darn sure it would fit!
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8401/86226...d92a_c.jpg]
Next, I glued, nailed and clamped the front back on. I was able to reuse all the original nails 
Luckily, the only damage is the split on the top right side. I say "luckily" because that trim will get coated with opaque black toner and hide the repair.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/86237...b751_c.jpg]
I'll give this filler a try on the nail holes. It sets up in just an hour but the fumes are pretty intense!
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8386/86226...a799_c.jpg]
I sure hope this ding will steam out.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/86226...686e_c.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 04-06-2013, 07:00 PM by Bob Andersen.)
Posts: 797
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City: Chicago, IL
According to an original ad this is a "hand-rubbed cabinet of natural-finish mahogany with black trim". So I figured I'd pick up some Mohawk black toner but I see they don't have any under the classic toners.
Instead, I found two blacks under the modern finish line - Studio One Black and Plantation Cove Black. Does anyone know the difference ? I thought black was black ?
(This post was last modified: 04-06-2013, 09:24 PM by Bob Andersen.)
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(This post was last modified: 04-07-2013, 01:47 AM by Bob Andersen.)
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Joined: Apr 2012
City: Waterford, NJ
Bob,
Don't know if these photos of my 66 will help. The grill cloth is not original but everything else is. The cabinet was in great shape when I got it so there was minimal repair and finish.
[Image: http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w511...oth66s.jpg]
[Image: http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w511...lco66B.jpg]
Joe
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City: Chicago, IL
Thanks for the photos - that's a beauty It looks to me that they used a light or clear grain filler and minimal toner on the veneer. I figure that's what the mean by "natural-finish mahogany". The ony filler I currently have is very dark. Maybe this is the time to give Crystalac a try ?
(This post was last modified: 04-07-2013, 02:47 PM by Bob Andersen.)
Posts: 80
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City: Waterford, NJ
Bob,
I realistically only had to clean and rewax this case. The only touchup I did was on the black trim. If my memory serves me I simply used black laquer.
Good luck with yours. Please post some photos of completed cabinet.
Joe
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City: McPherson, KS
MAYBE the "black" was something akin to Mohawk's "Van Dyke Brown" which get progressively darker with each application?!
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City: Black Mountain, NC
Bob,
Kind of wondering out loud here but it looks like some of the grill cloth is surplus behind the front panel. You may be able to borrow a piece from that area and patch/glue it into the torn area with some type of backing.
Mike
Cossor 3468
GE 417A
Philco 118H
Radiola 17/100
Scott 800B6
Silvertone 6130
Stromberg 535M
Truetone D1952
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City: Riverside, CA
Bob,
Check out this sales card for the 66B. It uses the same cabinet and the description spells out what colors were originally used.
http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...p?tid=6208
Regards,
Geoff
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City: Chicago, IL
Thanks! That confirms what I was guessing from examining the old finish. I'm pretty sure I have some Brown Mahogany Toner around here so I just need to pick up some black.
Sure, I could try making a patch from edge material, but there's a color difference. This whole radio reeks of tobacco so it may just be really dirty and not actually faded. I plan on very carefully trying to clean it.
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 03:12 PM by Bob Andersen.)
Posts: 4,707
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
Those old sales brochures are very useful sometimes, especially when you are trying to identify what species and cut of veneer was used on your exact cabinet. It says that the finish was "walnut brown mahogany" I take it means that the finish is more of a true brown then a reddish brown.
Regards
Arran
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City: Chicago, IL
Right after I got done spraying new lacquer on my 38-62, I took the old finish off this set.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/86607...03b0_c.jpg]
I was hoping these spots would fade away while stripping, but they didn't. I wonder if some substance dripped on the cabinet and bleached the veneer ?
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/86618...bf5f_c.jpg]
Posts: 797
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Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
Some bleach did a good lob of evening out the color on top.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8394/86710...dd2d_c.jpg]
I want to use a light or clear grain filler on this cabinet and received a suggestion about linseed oil and pumice. I already had pumice on hand and BLO is readily available so I gave it a try.
After a while I figured out the right ratio of oil and pumice to make a nice slurry.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/86699...a7f9_c.jpg]
It looks darker than I expected, but the can says it'll take 12-18 hours to dry so I hope it lightens up.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/86699...61ff_c.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 04-21-2013, 11:27 PM by Bob Andersen.)
Posts: 4,707
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Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I guess that you could probably get rid of the linseed oil residue with lacquer thinner if it still looks too dark. I've read about making filler out of linseed oil and pumice in a Fine Woodworking book I bought years ago but never had a chance to try it. I did pick up some small milk carton sized boxes of pumice and rotten stone from a liquidation store a few years ago to use for things like this, or rubbing a finish out, they were $.50 each or something since they are not exactly in high demand. Is there any word on the woodworking forums about this home made filler being incompatible with lacquer or anything? I would guess that's it's fine since the Beilens filler is also oil based.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 04-21-2013, 11:56 PM by Arran.)
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