Posts: 41
Threads: 13
Joined: Feb 2013
City: Oklahoma/Texas
I am not sure what to do next, and I need some help.
I replaced the rectifiter tube to get the voltages up.
I double checked the wiring of my new electrolytic capacitors (C101 and C102) and they are correct.
I replaced R202. That gave me a whine in the audio that is removed with the volume control.
Now my C101 and C102 have blown. Smoke everywhere. I have two new caps on hand but do not want to replace them until I can figure out why they blew. Voltage rating on the blown caps were 500 volts.
I'm thinking I may have a short somewhere, and if so, how do I track that down.
Thanks, Terry
Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
See if your rectifier tube is shorted or very leaky.
Shorts do not make capacitors blow.
Although it is always a good idea to check for them.
(This post was last modified: 05-02-2013, 10:29 AM by morzh.)
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Recheck the polarity of C101 and C102.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
That too of course.
Did you re-stuff the caps? Or did you use new bare caps? If you re-stuffed, are you sure you did connect + to + and - to - when sealing the cans?
When you say new capacitors, what exactly does that mean?
Posts: 41
Threads: 13
Joined: Feb 2013
City: Oklahoma/Texas
I bought new 16 mf axial capacitors from Justradios. As for polarity, I am pretty sure that I installed them correctly.
I will get back to the project next week when an Electrical Engineer friend can help me and verify the work.
Thanks for the help.
Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
16 mF or uF? That makes about 1000 times the difference. You talking microfarads, right?
Axials have the "-" going to the case and the "+" insulated, as usual, plus there are usually "+" side markings.
If you are sure and you did not re-stuff anything that would be another variable.....I would
1) check my rectifier tube
2) with the rectifier out, put a meter and measure the transformer output to the rectifier. What if it is doubled? Not sure how that could happen, but.....
I am still (if you are sure of polarity) leaning towards a bad rectifier.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Actually, in this country, MFD = mf = mF = uF.
We used to call pF "mmfd" or "mmf" but we've standardized on "pF" these days.
We did not use the in between nanofarad or "nF" in the USA.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Ron, have to disagree.
I cannot speak for the ham or antique radio community lingo, and the marking on the old capacitors was different from today (then again those were condensers, not caps ) ), but in today's EE practice in the US:
uF - microfarad
mF - not used. 1000uF is what it is.
nF - nanofarad.
pF - picofarad.
In general, in engineering and physics, today:
m - always ""milli", 1/1000
u - always ""micro, 1/1000,000, from its resemblance to Greek "mu" which starts the word "Mikro".
n - always "nano", 1/1,000,000,000
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
I was speaking from the antique radio collecting perspective, and had no knowledge of which terms modern engineers use.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
That I have no argument with.
Just kinda hard to switch between the two systems. When it is imperial and metric - easy, they have nothing in common, no confusion there. (although Martial modules occasionally crash)
Or between Russian and English.
But the same system where while speaking to some folks "mF" is a microfarad and to some others - 1000 microfarads, this gets downright confusing.
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
|
Tim,
nice write up and thanks for sharing !!
Sincerely Richardradiorich — 02:47 AM |
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
|
Well, this was a real "Hum-Dinger" :lol: ! This will be kinda long, but hopefully it will help others having t...TV MAN — 01:55 AM |
Shadow Meter Bulb
|
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM |
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
|
3D-printing...short of machining, of course.
Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM |
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
|
Thanks, Morzh.
That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM |
12' Philco
|
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel.
Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM |
12' Philco
|
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM |
Hickok AC51 tube tester
|
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer.
Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM |
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
|
Arran
If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM |
12' Philco
|
Rod,
Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently.
H...morzh — 12:54 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|
|