[BrendaAnnD]

Are the sockets unobtanium? I have two or three different styles of bayonet sockets, and other styles are widely available from various sources.

[morzh]

Well....the radio has been in the family probably since the beginning. I an restoring it to the singing condition, and the guy does not worry enough to try to really restore the cabinet, he said he would remove the paint spot and put a clear lacquer coat and that would be it, so this does not warrant an extra effort to get it to the pristine condition. I will bring it to the state of the last working repair which was probably done some time in 40-s. That will be it.

Actually today i told him that this is an AA5 so he has to warn his daughter (who it is for) to be extra careful. He is an EE so he understands.

[morzh]

Brenda

Whom do you use for lamp sockets?

I will need one extra for this job (Just ordered L49D) and I actually need one for my 37-116 - the socket is shot.


Another question if anyone know: what voltage / rating lamps are used with these ballasts? I suspect it is 6V types but I am not sure about the current rating.

[BrendaAnnD]

6 volt, 300mA lamps. 46's if bayonet. I think it's 44 if screw base.

I'll look through my resources and find where I've bought these sockets, and let you know. Can you send or post a pic of the socket style(s) that you need?

[morzh]

Tonight when I get home.

Actually I think it does not even matter as long as the sockets are the clip type, it can be bаyonet or screw.

[morzh]

Brenda

Here they are:

1. The one for Emerson
   
2. The one for 37-116 (two views)
   
   

[morzh]

Strange thing though.

Unless the tube panels were changed (and the rivets look good enough to be considered factory, but then I cannot figure if the soldering is factory - the cord was changed and the soldering clearly not factory-like - but the rest of the ballast panel looks nice enough, so the pin 2 of the ballast that goes to the first lamp, it is not soldered AND it looks like it was NEVER soldered, it is pristine.

So: the pin for the 1st light is not soldered, and the lamp is only one, and the ballast installed is L49B.
Back then in the 1950 when the radio was repaired (there is a writing on the back that confirms that) to get an original ballast was easy enough I think. Why L49B and one lamp?

So, what do you think, should I go for the 2-lamp L49D ballast and buy a second socket or should I say "screw it" and order the L49B and leave only one socket which is there now?

[BrendaAnnD]

I have that style of socket for the Emerson, send me an address and I'll send you a couple. As for the Philco socket.. those are tougher. I've refurbed those in a couple different ways. The first was to Dremel the cone and socket so that it would stretch open a bit, then friction fit a new socket into it. The second was to replace the entire wire/spring/contact assembly with parts from a new socket.

[morzh]

Thanks Brenda.

If you know who sells them I still could use some. Maybe oldradioparts.....

[morzh]

In the meantime another question:
first, maybe Ron could move this into the "Other radios" - the trend seems to turn into the restore discussion. Or at least part of it.

Second,

I do not have a source other than Nostalgiaair, and it has no parts locations diagram.
If someone knows where to find it, or what volume Rider's describes it, I have the Rider, but it is too much to search if you don't know what and where you are searching for.

Main question for today:

Cap C30 ( the one from the 25L6's cathode to GND) is listed as 5uF in the parts list.
In my chassis there is a small molded cap that clearly cannot be 5uF.

The soldering seems factory.

If anyone has this or similar radio using 25L6, could you look what it uses there in place of C30?

[BrendaAnnD]

I would tend to agree with the 5uF value. Usually, it's anywhere between 5 and 20uF, and included in the main multisection 'lytic. 5 is probably fine for this radio, 20 would give more bass than the speaker could handle (it's an AC signal bypass across the bias resistor in the cathode circuit.)

[morzh]

I know what the cap is for. It is a neg. feedback reducing cap increasing the gain for AC when the DC gain needs to be different from the AC gain.
What I wonder is why is it absent in what seems to be factory assembled output.
Have they found out they overloaded the speaker at low frequencies and started getting bad distortion or something?

[morzh]

OK, here's a problem - an RF coil looks like it burned (I wonder if this is why the whole cord was bad and the ballast opened).

Oh man. I do not need that. Have to talk to the guy see if he's willing to do the winding job....I only ordered the tuning cap belt so far, not a biggie.

[Phlogiston]

I can rebuild the Philco ones as good as new. As long as someone has not done anything to them.

[Ron Ramirez]

maybe Ron could move this into the "Other radios"

Done.